Holding tank crack on 35-III

[treilley]

I removed my holding tank a few weeks ago in order to replace all the hoses, clean the tank and rebuild the potty. I was working on the tank today when I found a crack on edge of the wing that extends aft. There is a dark line across the corner(see photos). You can see it ooze liquid when flexed.

 

[Glyn Judson]

Cracked tank.

Tim, Ronco Plastics, http://www.ronco-plastics.net, 714.259.1385 made our tanks way back when and can still make a replacement for you today (well tomorrow, Happy New Year today). They also have a repair method for small holes where someone might have accidentially drilled where they shouldnt have, but I think it involves spinning their repair part into a flat area of the tank, not a corner like yours. Additionally I think that the shape of your tank is prone to failure there. Sean can you step in here to share your L-shaped tank story with Tim? But still there might be hope getting a replacement from Ronco just like yours but stronger. When I had my last one made I remember the fellow telling me that the holding capacity would be slightly smaller than my original due to the fact that they now make the wall thickness twice what our old tanks were. Was that an economy move on the part of Ericson then or has the manufacturing process cought up with better product design? In any event why not call them tomorrow to discuss all the options available to you? Typically the holding tanks they make today are black or gray, white being reserved for potable water to avoid any confusion, UCKHHHH!! Talk to them about that too and you might want to switch colors. But you say then you won't know how to tell how full it is? Here's a trick I got from an old E-27 friend, Lloyd Roberts. Use an electronic stud finder to determine the fluid level in your polyethylene holding tank. The dielectric constant principle of the finder works quite well to tell you how full your tank is. Place it horizontally against the side of the tank near the bottom. Turn the device on and slowly slide it up the tank side. It will indicate when it reaches the fluid level. That's how I do it to the gray tank I replaced in our E31 and it works like a charm. By the way, you can do all the ordering at Ronco by phone and credit card as I did years ago when I ordered my first tank from them. Five days later it was awaiting me on the front porch when I came home from work. Good luck and let us all know how it turns out.

 

[Sean Engle]

Yeah - the corner crack is well known failure point.

Ronco will suggest the B192 - which is basically the same tank - but without the 'wing' on it. You only lose about 1 gal of capacity - but you gain a storage area for um, 'related' supplies - and you won't have to worry about the corner cracking again.

I would also suggest you have them mount the elbows at the factory so they're sealed with butyl rubber, and I would have them (Ronco) also install a (vapor tight) inspection port in the top so you can hose the tank out once a year to keep the crud from building up. Gross, I know - but that nasty task once a year will keep the entire system from stinking over the long run... Also, make sure you blow out the entire system with fresh water everyday when you get home...

See my head rebuild project in the project section for more info and pictures to see what you're up against...

Good deal on replacing the system, Tim - you'll be amazed how the um, 'character' of your boat changes (your guests will also!)...

//sse

 

[treilley]

Thanks for the advice guys. Sean, I had already studied your upgrade in detail. Mine will end up slightly differently as the hose routing and throughhulls are a little different on my 35. I have a shelf under the vanity that limits the way you can run the hose. I also plan on using Odorsafe hose which is a little better than standard sanitary hose at limiting odors.

I have done this on other boats. I actually designed a custom holding tank for my Pearson 28-1 that is used by other sailors as well. I had a firm in RI manufacture it for me. See the photos here:

http://www.tkronaboat.com/Projects/Pearson 28 Projects/Custom Holding Tank/index.html

I spotted the B192 tank in the catalog. Their list is $211.00. Tank-deport.com sells it for $145 plus $41 S+H.

 

[Glyn Judson]

Tank replacement and plumbing.

Tim, Call Ronco before comitting to the Tank Depot price. In each case when buying a tank from Ronco the finalquoted price to me was half of the catalog price which included the fittings spun in where ever I wanted them. Don't ask but that's the way tyhey did it and may still do. Also consider having a 4 inch, O-ring sealed access plate spun in the top of the tank, great for that occasional garden hose flushing, etc. What is about to follow is guaranteed to put the majority of you reading this to sleep for the 1,000 time but Tim you don't need to buy that expensive and hard to work with Odorsafe sanitary hose, honestly you don't. In truth it's just throwing good money after bad. It's not even necessary to replace the existing hose unless you plan to reroute the plumbing. Consider using a slightly modified version of the West Marine Our Favorite Method as seen on page 427 of their 2006 catalog. By substituting the #8 Y-valve with a simple T-fitting like item L on page 441, you eliminate any user error in pumping the tank either from on deck or overboard. I have developed a system of cleansing existing hoses that eliminates all latent odor and with the additional use of Odorlos treatement, all and I mean ALL head odor will become nothing but a bad memory from now on. If interested in seeing photos of the hoses in my current installation, the modified hose-end cuffs for the barbed fittings, that T-fitting and my simple cleaning formula, email me back channel at glynjudson@adelphia.net and I'll send you all of what I have. Regards, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA

 

[treilley]

Called Ronco this morning. They said "congratulations, you are our first customer of 2007, you get half off" . So I will get the tank for $105.60. According to their tech guy, the tank in my boat was not original. The original should have been black.

 

[Cory B]

Congrats!

Tim,

I'm about a week or two behind you on this project on our 1984 35-III. Incidentally, our tank is not black, but off-white, and most assuredly original.

Are you replaceing the head while you are in there? We're going to dump the old groco and replace with a Raritan PHII or Lavac, and are going to try to angle it like the original plans (see Sean's project) for a little extra leg room for tall people like me.

Good luck,
- Cory

 

[treilley]

Yeah, I think mine is probably original too. I already have a PHII which is a nice potty. I rebuilt it and while doing so found a manufacturing defect in the base that was causing it to leak also. So far I found 2 leaks in the system. My wife kept cleaning the bilge wondering why the new boat just wouldn't smell as nice as the old boat

I plan on checking the angle before I bolt it back down. My wife and I are both tall and we will test sit the potty.

I encourage you to remove and rebuild the Whale pump if equipped. Mine would not prime easily so I took it apart to rebuild and found a lot of internal corrosion. You need a large, high torque flat head screwdriver to get the internal screws out to replace the valve flaps. Of course Whale sells every replacement part except for the body which is what I need. A new pump is $200 at defender.

 

[Glyn Judson]

Head replacement and/or repositioning.

Cory and Tim, What ever direction you finally decide on for your heads, consider a little trick I've employed with mine. But two or three 1/4 inch Nylon washers per mounting fastener at West Marine or your favorite chandler and place them between the bottom of the head and the fiberglass base you attach it to. That way urine or salt water can be easily rinsed away with a small amount of fresh water and you'll avoid any funky green build up. I just did the same thing with the Vernalift muffler I installed for similar reasons. Cory, If you have the high end Groco K-H head give serious thought to rebuilding it berofe replacement as it rates right up there with the best as far as manual heads are concerned. Good luck both of you and all I can say is I'm glad it's you and not me doing that work. Glyn

 

[NateHanson]

Lavac,

Is the Lavac the vacuum powered, fresh-water flushed head/holding tank system? (I can't remember the name, but that's probably it). If we're talking about the same thing, then DEFINITELY go for it. I delivered a Baltic yacht with this system installed and it was amazingly clean, completely odorless, and wonderful to use. It's also mechanically quite simple. The head itself only has approximately one moving part! The vacuum generator is more complicated, but that's a discrete, remote device, that can more easily be replaced or repaired without feeling like a Paris sewer worker.

I loved it!