Holding Tank for 35-3

Disch

New Member
I'm looking to replace the current holding tank (bladder type installed by previous owner) with a hard plastic tank. I checked the blogs and found info dating back to 2005/2007 on a Ronco B192. Does anyone know if that is a good replacement tank for the 35-3 or of any other tank designs that will work? Thanks Geoff
 

trickdhat

Member III
Blogs Author
Geoff,

I'm in the process of doing this right now. To avoid too many complications, I chose to keep the tank where it was designed which limited my choice to a custom tank, bladder, or Ronco's B192. I chose Ronco's tank. It is a bit smaller than the original, but the fit is exactly the same. The down sides are the size, limited access, and the drain fitting has to come out of the bottom. If your open to relocating the tank, it may be possible to relocate it to the V birth where the forward water tank is located. I haven't looked into this, but I'm thinking it may be possible and provide some good advantages.

Although I read a lot of good review about Ronco's customer service, I did not experience the same. It took quite a few emails and phone calls to get the order right. The person who was responding did not have a lot of technical knowledge and would not place the order without me filling out their order form. The problem was the order from has a square box you are supposed to label where you want your fittings located, but the B192 is a strange shape. I took pictures and marked them up with what I wanted and even made a CAD drawing with dimensions. In the end, they finally said I needed to talk with someone on the manufacturing floor. a few minutes later, he said it was no problem and I received shipping confirmation a day later.

When the tank arrived, the fittings were not exactly positioned where I had asked which required a small change to how I routed my vent. It isn't a huge deal, but it was frustrating. They also forgot to add the O-Ring to the inspection port. Another small annoyance is their instructions say not to use any kind of sealant on the fittings, but I could not get them to seal. I ended up using Hercules Megaloc sealant on the suggestion of a fellow member which solved the problem. 20201227_150048.jpg
 
Last edited:

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Moderator
Blogs Author
Yikes. I've run into similar confusion lately. Might be Covid-related, lots of reports of short staffs and key personnel disrupted.
 

Disch

New Member
Geoff,

I'm in the process of doing this right now. To avoid too many complications, I chose to keep the tank where it was designed which limited my choice to a custom tank, bladder, or Ronco's B192. I chose Ronco's tank. It is a bit smaller than the original, but the fit is exactly the same. The down sides are the size, limited access, and the drain fitting has to come out of the bottom. If your open to relocating the tank, it may be possible to relocate it to the V birth where the forward water tank is located. I haven't looked into this, but I'm thinking it may be possible and provide some good advantages.

Although I read a lot of good review about Ronco's customer service, I did not experience the same. It took quite a few emails and phone calls to get the order right. The person who was responding did not have a lot of technical knowledge and would not place the order without me filling out their order form. The problem was the order from has a square box you are supposed to label where you want your fittings located, but the B192 is a strange shape. I took pictures and marked them up with what I wanted and even made a CAD drawing with dimensions. In the end, they finally said I needed to talk with someone on the manufacturing floor. a few minutes later, he said it was no problem and I received shipping confirmation a day later.

When the tank arrived, the fittings were not exactly positioned where I had asked which required a small change to how I routed my vent. It isn't a huge deal, but it was frustrating. They also forgot to add the O-Ring to the inspection port. Another small annoyance is their instructions say not to use any kind of sealant on the fittings, but I could not get them to seal. I ended up using Hercules Megaloc sealant on the suggestion of a fellow member which solved the problem. View attachment 36589


Thanks so much for the info./confirmation on the B192 and the picture is great. I too am going to stay with the current location and make it work. The rest of the plumbing in the boat is new along with the head, so hate to throw all that away in relocating the tank to the v-birth.

Sounds like I'll have to spend some time with Ronco to get it right and watch the details. thanks again
 

trickdhat

Member III
Blogs Author
Here's my order form with the sketch. The issue I had was the position of the inlet. They did not lower it enough to clear the vent. I resolved it by installing a 90 and looping it back over the top of the tank. Hopefully it can make it a little easier for you.
 

Attachments

  • Ronco Plastics Order Form.pdf
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Cory B

Member III
We replaced our old holding tank a few years back with a new Ronco tank, same location. They did have a mixup on the fittings sizes (0.5" vs 1.5" ???), but when I pointed it out, they made me a new one that was correct. They were easy to work with and stood by their work.

One thing to note, they normally do their holding tanks in black. I asked for white (like the original) so that I could see how full it was without needing a gauge or opening it up.
 

Disch

New Member
Here's my order form with the sketch. The issue I had was the position of the inlet. They did not lower it enough to clear the vent. I resolved it by installing a 90 and looping it back over the top of the tank. Hopefully it can make it a little easier for you.
thanks for the sketch, i'll use this when ordering my tank. I noticed that your vent port was .75" Dia, where my current tank is .625" Dia.. I'm trying to determine if the vent on the hull is .75" Dia or .625"? I can always pull it apart to verify.
 

trickdhat

Member III
Blogs Author
It is 5/8, but I'm replacing everything so I sized up to 3/4. I would have liked to go to 1" but I couldn't fit it through the hole in the bulkhead with the outlet house, water lines, and electrical. I could have run it along the inlet house, but I'm trying to hide as much of the plumbing as possible. Hope that helps
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
It is 5/8, but I'm replacing everything so I sized up to 3/4. I would have liked to go to 1" but I couldn't fit it through the hole in the bulkhead with the outlet house, water lines, and electrical. I could have run it along the inlet house, but I'm trying to hide as much of the plumbing as possible. Hope that helps
You need a small rotary rasp bit set. Cheap at Harbor Freight and other places-- https://www.harborfreight.com/high-...LpTaZvZjSAHUB83n04D5XnAixh-MOnCoaAtc1EALw_wcB

Use a smaller portable drill motor. I had to widen out all the holes for hoses when I replaced the bilge and vent hoses. Also have a small diameter drum sander attachment to finish up with. Wear Eye Protection.

Have a vacuum handy also.

All part of the fun of upgrading an older boat! :)
 

trickdhat

Member III
Blogs Author
Loren,

The rasp and drum sanding attachments is great advice and exactly what I used on the holes leading into the head. However, the passage between the holding tank and cabinet is constrained by the hull and the cabinetry in the head. I was able to ease the corners with a small belt sander (great tool BTW), but enlarging this passage isn't an option on the 35-3.
 
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