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How to interpret sail plan

Amontyg

Member I
In the process of buying a used jib/Genoa for my Ericson 32. I found one I think may work, and when I reached out to inquire about it I was provided the attached “sail plan”. How should I interpret this? It seems to me that it will fit appropriately on my headstay/furler but I’m not knowledgeable enough to know what any performance implications might be.

Would appreciate any insight or knowledge that can be provided!
 

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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
sail plan Capture.JPG

The critical numbers are "I" and "J."

I suggest measuring your boat with a tape measure. You never know about published measurements, which can get mislabled.

If your "J" is 13', that sail is a 100 percent jib, which is fine but it's not an overlapping genoa.
 

Stuphoto

Member III
I agree with Christian,
Measure your boat first.

Unless you have owned the boat since new, you just never know if someone has changed the mast with something longer or even shorter.

If buying used sails I would also question the age, manufacturer and so on.
I have a complete set of possibly original 50 year old sails which all look amazing until you raise them and realize they are all stretched out.
I would hate seeing you buy something like them and being disappointed when using them.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
In the process of buying a used jib/Genoa for my Ericson 32. I found one I think may work, and when I reached out to inquire about it I was provided the attached “sail plan”. How should I interpret this? It seems to me that it will fit appropriately on my headstay/furler but I’m not knowledgeable enough to know what any performance implications might be.

Would appreciate any insight or knowledge that can be provided!
If you have roller furling, you need to measure the distance from each end of the closed shackle. Use a quality tape measure and sister it with a separate light line so you can retrieve the halyard if the tape should break or the end comes off.

The position of the clew will be important to determine just where the sheet will will intersect with your deck blocks.
Is the proposed purchase set up with hanks or a #6 luff tape?

And I sure agree with Christian and Stu about having your own trusted measurements.
 

Amontyg

Member I
I’m using a harken furler that should use #6 luff tape. The sail I’m considering should fit. The sun cover is on the opposite side of my current sail - I’m assuming you can reverse the roll direction on the furler, but that more be an incorrect assessment. I have measured the distance between the max luff using the method Loren described, and measured it at 37’4”, so the sail should be about a foot short of the max.
 

bsangs

E35-3 - New Jersey
I’m using a harken furler that should use #6 luff tape. The sail I’m considering should fit. The sun cover is on the opposite side of my current sail - I’m assuming you can reverse the roll direction on the furler, but that more be an incorrect assessment. I have measured the distance between the max luff using the method Loren described, and measured it at 37’4”, so the sail should be about a foot short of the max.
You definitely can reverse the roll direction of the furler, as I've mistakenly done it on more than one occasion when trying to troubleshoot.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
When removing and replacing a roller furl headsail it takes me three days to figure out how to do it. Is the line around the drum when the sail is extended, or the other way around. Is the UV cover on the correct side? Do I furl the sail before putting on the line, or not? Compute how long the control line is.

I recommend getting a good night's sleep before the job, and doing it when nobody's looking. Of course you could ask somebody, or look it up on the forum, but that would be too embarrassing. Also, try not to scratch your head a lot.
 

G Kiba

Sustaining Member
I have to reverse the drum direction when I change from #2 to #3 head sails. So i seem to do this a lot! You may need to change the location of the last block leading into the furler to make it wind in either direction.
So my procedure for changing sails is:
- Roll out jib and cleat furler line
- Lower and flake sail, detach sail tack, head, and clew
- Unroll furler line in the drum at the bow and make sure the halyard does not wrap around the forestay!
- Rewind furler line in the opposite direction and make sure the halyard does not wrap around the forestay!
- Attach sail (head, tack, and clew), hoist, and wind-up.

Also good to remember: The drum is filled with line when the sail is out and empties when the sail is rolled up. When rewinding, be carefully not to get line wraps in the drum.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
You may need to change the location of the last block

Good point. Failure to notice the changing lead angle (often by happenstance, depending on the way the line last rolled out) caused two control lines to saw themselves off in five years. The sawing angle, line against drum, only occurred 5 percent of the time and was therefore hard to recognize.

Video sequence here.

roller reefing line break.JPG
 

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
When removing and replacing a roller furl headsail it takes me three days to figure out how to do it. Is the line around the drum when the sail is extended, or the other way around.

I cheat. I made a note in the cover of my log-book: "put 20 turns of line on the furling drum, and then raise the sail"

:)
 
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