• Untitled Document

    Join us on April 26th, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    April Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

Installing New Transmission

Ed Valente

Member II
Due to the lack of available marine mechanics in the Chicago area, I’ve decided that a DIY transmission replacement project is my only solution to salvaging an already short sailing season on the lakes.
Although, after removing the engine and old transmission, I may end up spending my summer in physical therapy.
Does anyone have the torque specs for the bell housing, transmission-bell housing and coupler? I’ve combed the manual to no avail.
 

Attachments

  • AC724066-F647-43CF-8D8B-B187C2D04A97.jpeg
    AC724066-F647-43CF-8D8B-B187C2D04A97.jpeg
    311.9 KB · Views: 47

Dave G.

1984 E30+ Ludington, MI
Ed, I have never seen any published torque values for our boats & tried my hardest to find coupler torque specs recently and not a thing. I ended up using a torque by bolt size chart I found on line. Find your bolt specs(size and grade) and the chart will tell you the suggested torque. Hope that helps. What transmission are you installing ?
 

Ed Valente

Member II
Sorry, should have mentioned it’s a Universal m320 with a ZF10m transmission. Thanks for the information. I will consult the tables mentioned.
 

Mr. Scarlett

Member III
I did this on a Universal M25 earlier this year (former boat) with a similar transmission. Couldn't find any torque specs so I just created a pattern that made sense to me and tightened until tight.
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
The Universal M25 service manual lists some torque settings for "important bolts" (which seems not to include the bell housing) and for "general bolts and studs" depending on size and steel grade. See attached:
 

Attachments

  • M25 torque.pdf
    1.3 MB · Views: 9

Slick470

Member III
Yeah, the access back in there isn't great, I don't envy you.

At least maybe take the opportunity with the engine out to put in new engine compartment insulation. Our foil backed foam insulation finally got to the point where it needed to come out and the boat is a lot louder even without the so-so failing old stuff. I'm not sure if I could get any new insulation in there without taking the engine out first.
 

Ed Valente

Member II
Funny you mentioned that. I took care of the new sound insulation yesterday.
To answer a previous question, I had the transmission replaced 5 years ago while stranded in Michigan.
I paid for and thought I was purchasing a new one. However, when I split it from the bell housing I found markings which would indicate otherwise.
I will be following up with the boat yard in St Joseph Mi who did the replacement. However, I’m confident the pending discussion will be fruitless.
 

Slick470

Member III
ouch. good luck with those discussions.

I'll need to do something about our now lack of insulation. It is so stinking loud under power that I can't understand what people on other boats are saying when they are motoring along side on the way to the race course on Wednesday nights.
 

Ed Valente

Member II
I also insulated the inside of the above drawer. Insulation sandwiched with thin pvc sheet for durability.
Lost some interior volume but it made a significant difference in sound.
I’ll post a pic when I’m at the boat
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Way easier
ouch. good luck with those discussions.

I'll need to do something about our now lack of insulation. It is so stinking loud under power that I can't understand what people on other boats are saying when they are motoring along side on the way to the race course on Wednesday nights.
Great idea ------ to re-insulate our boat when the engine is out; we did. I had removed what was left of the OEM crumbling stuff years before we decided to repower.
Remembering that "perfection is the enemy of the good" I should have put back sound insulation Anywhere that I Could, long before. While it does not eliminate the noise, it does help a lot. So, anywhere you can do the clean/glue on/mechanically fasten.... any of it, just do it.
And use the pricy mylar tape to seal all of the edges. If EY had sealed all of the original edges back in the 80's, the original stuff would have lasted longer.
Opinions rendered on the hour, deposit .02 please. :)

I have several pix of our new insulation in my engine swap blog here, too.
Such as: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/ubs/old-engine-out-planning-for-the-new-one.617/
 
Last edited:

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
This stuff made a big difference. The noise suppression blanket I made to drape over the engine box behind the companionway ladder is equally effective, especially against the higher-pitched diesel sounds.

 
Last edited:

Slick470

Member III
Way easier

Great idea ------ to re-insulate our boat when the engine is out; we did. I had removed what was left of the OEM crumbling stuff years before we decided to repower.
Remembering that "perfection is the enemy of the good" I should have put back sound insulation Anywhere that I Could, long before. While it does not eliminate the noise, it does help a lot. So, anywhere you can do the clean/glue on/mechanically fasten.... any of it, just do it.
And use the pricy mylar tape to seal all of the edges. If EY had sealed all of the original edges back in the 80's, the original stuff would have lasted longer.
Opinions rendered on the hour, deposit .02 please. :)

I have several pix of our new insulation in my engine swap blog here, too.
I need to go back through your blog again and catch up. I was following along with your refit earlier on and then got distracted.
 

Rocinante33

Contributing Partner
Ed,

Removal of the transmission does not require engine removal, although subsequent Physical Therapy will be necessary, unfortunately.o_O It is a PITA, but much simpler to do in the water with the engine left in place.

First thing is to put a large hoseclamp snug around the propshaft so you don't accidentally push the propshaft out after uncoupling it from the tranny.

OTOH, looking back at your picture, it looks like the engine & trans have already been pulled, so as Roseanne Roseanadanna said, nevermind!
 

Slick470

Member III
Keith, on the Olson 911 that Ed has, I do not believe there is enough clearance to remove the transmission without removing the engine first. The transmission is partially under the cockpit and it's a pretty tight fit.
 

Ed Valente

Member II
That’s correct. The Olson 911 has less than 2” of clearance with the zf10m. I could have just slid it forward a few more inches. However, that would have required just as much dissembling sans the minimal extra effort of dragging it into the cabin.
Doing so gave me better access to the bell housing and less contortion.
It’s unfortunate that Universal designed the transmission bolts to be accessed from within the bell housing. Although, in the case of the 911it would not have made a difference.
 

G Kiba

Sustaining Member
Good job Ed! This job is likely in my future. I bought my boat the day before the Covid shut down and on the 60 mile motor home could not hit 5 knots. The next day, I had no forward past an idle. Found the problem was the transmission slipping. Called the previous owner and he was nice enough to send me back $1000. Really great guy. There are good people in the world. He said that he had never had that problem and felt bad about my misfortune. Anyways. He recommend that I replace the transmission fluid with 30wt motor oil. What did I have to lose? It worked and is still working. Although I am leery of overheating and seal leaks or other issues. Figure i will replace the entire unit when/if it fails. So did you find a replacement transmission? At what cost if you don't mind? (I am thinking of buying a replacement now) And i am guessing that you unbolted the motor mounts at the stringers and slid the assembly forward. Was it difficult?
 

Ed Valente

Member II
Good job Ed! This job is likely in my future. I bought my boat the day before the Covid shut down and on the 60 mile motor home could not hit 5 knots. The next day, I had no forward past an idle. Found the problem was the transmission slipping. Called the previous owner and he was nice enough to send me back $1000. Really great guy. There are good people in the world. He said that he had never had that problem and felt bad about my misfortune. Anyways. He recommend that I replace the transmission fluid with 30wt motor oil. What did I have to lose? It worked and is still working. Although I am leery of overheating and seal leaks or other issues. Figure i will replace the entire unit when/if it fails. So did you find a replacement transmission? At what cost if you don't mind? (I am thinking of buying a replacement now) And i am guessing that you unbolted the motor mounts at the stringers and slid the assembly forward. Was it difficult?
The engine wasn’t terribly difficult to remove. I did unbolt the mounts at the stringers. To do otherwise would require lifting the engine off the mounts. Leaving them attached will allow you to “simply” slide the engine forward.
I did however have to lift the engine slightly in order to momentarily clear the oil pan. I placed a couple rubber pads on the cabin sole topped with a piece of plywood then cribbed the engine using 2x6 boards.
The bell housing separated easily after supporting the back of the engine block. Unfortunately, the rebuilt replacement I sourced via eBay was inoperable.
Luckily, I realized this before installing and the seller was ethical and accepted a return.
I’ve tried coast to coast to find a replacement without luck and the current replacement model will require modifications.
On Monday I plan to see if a local transmission business can rebuild it as I believe rebuild kits are still available. Not something I’m comfortable attempting myself. A man needs to know his limitations and I may have already exceeded mine.
I’ll keep you posted.
Please let me know If anyone has leads on a replacement ZF10m.
 

Dave G.

1984 E30+ Ludington, MI
Ed, I saw a video of an install of one of these transmissions on a Universal diesel and it seemed to go well. Also these are considerably less expensive than the others. I do know there are a couple of "quirks" to make it work. The height between centers of the input and output shafts is a 1/4" longer, the depth is also a 1/4" longer, and the shift lever is on the port side of the unit. Seems doable though and definitely worth a look into. I'll see if I can find that video and post the link.

 
Top