It started with the engine...

willo

Member II
Sheesh.
Engine was blowing white smoke (unignited diesel, NOT coolant)
Turned out that piston #1 in my Beta 50 lost the rod bearing, causing it to lose compression, etc.
Pulled the engine, found a replacement crank and rod, it's partially back together now.

Discovered that he transmission flex plate is shot, so I found a replacement and burned some CC points to get it and avoid going overbudget.

Since the engine and trans were out, I pulled the trigger on getting a PSS seal. Yanked the shaft flange and stuffing box and have the shaft on the ground so I can clean it up for the new seal. Realized last night I should address the cutlass bearing while I'm at it.

And I discovered that the strut for the cutlass is cracked along one flange. It's now resting at the local machine shop so they can make me a new one out of stainless. Cost is probably going to be one BOAT unit. It may be less but they wanted to make sure I knew the worst case. I would pursue having one cast from bronze but the machine shop can get it done early next week which is about the best I can ask.

Hopefully I don't get anymore surprises this week.
 

trickdhat

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
I started at the opposite side with the desire to install a PSS and cutlass bearing, but ended up in the same situation with the engine out and needing a new strut. Everything's back together now. It will be interesting to hear and see how it's done an a 46. I haven't seen too many stainless struts. What are the advantages and disadvantages to going the stainless route (outside of the quick turnaround)?
 

Dave G.

1984 E30+ Ludington, MI
advantages and disadvantages to going the stainless route (outside of the quick turnaround)?
Not sure I have ever seen a boat with a stainless strut. My concern would be how the cutlass bearing pressed into stainless and also how the bronze bearing interacted with stainless steel. I'm guessing you should coat the bearing with something or it might permanently attach to the strut. I'm no metallurgist so maybe your fabricating shop can give you the facts on mixing those 2 metals.
 

willo

Member II
They produce a non metallic sleeve cutlass bearing for this type of application. That way no bronze insert is required.
 

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, new owners 7/21
Yeah, you deserve a Can O' Worms Award.
Can O Worms  E2 sm.gif
I hope the rest goes smoothly. If you can post some pictures of the SS strut, I'd be really interested in seeing it.
Good luck,
Jeff
 

willo

Member II
I'm currently waiting for the new cutlass bearing to show up - for some mental reason they used friggin us mail today instead of UPS. :/
Meanwhile, the machine shop also makes hydraulic hoses, so I had them make up new hoses for my transmission oil cooler and engine oil change pump. I pressure washed the engine and transmission today, so hopefully tomorrow I'm good to start painting.
The new strut will be made from solid stainless round, welded and then bored out to fit the bearing.
 

trickdhat

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
It will be cool to see a stainless strut. Will they use the same length and bore? The original 6" x 1.25“ cutlass was difficult to find. When I chose a strut with a 1 3/8" bore, I found out they aren't made in 6" lengths and they had to use 2 4" bearings trimmed to fit. Hopefuly you don't have to deal with the same hicup.
 
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