Sunday I finally got the nerve up to fire up the 1GM10. Results were generally good.
I connected an electric diesel pump I bought at the auto parts store to a fuel line that ran to a handy 2 gallon portable can.
The pump was wired to the fuel pump line used by the old Palmer.
I turned on the key and let fuel pump through the line and come out before I connected it to the Yanmar. This avoided having to bleed the yanmar which I had run static some months ago.
I turned the key off, clamped down the fuel line at the lifter pump and opened the seacock. Raw water filled the strainer, I advanced the throttle just a notch hit the starter and I was quickly greeted with the banging of the little 1 piston engine.
I ran the engine in neutral through the rpm range from very slow, where it seemed the engine would shake like an earthquake, up through a smooth range, with a slight rough spot in the middle, followed by smooth operation the rest of the way.
A leak in the exhaust caused by not cranking down the hose clamp enough proved the raw water pump was doing it's job, and a rising external temp gauge showed that even though I could not hear the circulating pump over the sound of the engine coolant was circulating.
Not having anything more than idiot light sensors on the engine I purchased a small electronic thermometer off of ebay for about $5. Testing it at home before installation proved it to match up with other instruments I had on hand. The probe for the thermometer is attached to the brass 90 I put between the water out of the engine and the heat exchanger. This is right where the water exits the engine when the thermostat opens. I figured that was a good place for the probe. If anyone has a better idea I am all ears.
During the 20 or so minutes I operated the engine the gauge climbed to 99F. A feel of the input and output hoses on the heat exchanger found a temp nice differential.
Engaging the transmission both directions and running up the RPM a bit each direction gave indication the alignment was good. I did not want to run too fast with the prop engaged as I was operating the controls from the engine compartment so I could keep an eye on things.
Had a little panic as I saw h2o dripping from the engine. Traced it back to the weep hole on the raw water pump. Does anyone have a sense of what a proper drip rate is so I can judge if the pump needs a rebuild?
Next small problem was no alternator output. Not really a surprise as I do not have a Yanmar panel and on looking at the diagram that is where the field voltage comes from. Next trip to the marina the field gets wired directly to my switched circuit that runs the circulating pump. I suspect this will solve the problem. I am also going to toss together a fast little project with a couple LEDs and a salvaged buzzer for the idiot lights. Will probably have to wire these direct as well as I have not been able to locate the connector that mates to the engine harness. Since I am good with electrics and electronics I see no reason to spend $400 on an idiot light panel!
Now for my questions.
1. Is the electric fuel pump needed or will the lifter pump do the job?
2. Does anyone see any issue with putting a T on the tank vent and using one side of the T for the fuel return and the other for the tank vent line to the transom.
3. What do folks suggest for fuel filters external to this small engine? For the test I just used an in-line automative style filter just like the Palmer had, in addition to the filter that was attached directly to the pump input acting as a thread to nipple adapter in the process.
4. Does anyone know of a source for the Yanmar wiring harness connectors that does not cost a small fortune? If not I will make due with a terminal strip.
So I have a little wiring to do, and some fuel line plumbing as well as probably pumping out some of the fuel I just put in so I can examine it in a few days and see if I have tank crud. No inspection ports in my tank.
I connected an electric diesel pump I bought at the auto parts store to a fuel line that ran to a handy 2 gallon portable can.
The pump was wired to the fuel pump line used by the old Palmer.
I turned on the key and let fuel pump through the line and come out before I connected it to the Yanmar. This avoided having to bleed the yanmar which I had run static some months ago.
I turned the key off, clamped down the fuel line at the lifter pump and opened the seacock. Raw water filled the strainer, I advanced the throttle just a notch hit the starter and I was quickly greeted with the banging of the little 1 piston engine.
I ran the engine in neutral through the rpm range from very slow, where it seemed the engine would shake like an earthquake, up through a smooth range, with a slight rough spot in the middle, followed by smooth operation the rest of the way.
A leak in the exhaust caused by not cranking down the hose clamp enough proved the raw water pump was doing it's job, and a rising external temp gauge showed that even though I could not hear the circulating pump over the sound of the engine coolant was circulating.
Not having anything more than idiot light sensors on the engine I purchased a small electronic thermometer off of ebay for about $5. Testing it at home before installation proved it to match up with other instruments I had on hand. The probe for the thermometer is attached to the brass 90 I put between the water out of the engine and the heat exchanger. This is right where the water exits the engine when the thermostat opens. I figured that was a good place for the probe. If anyone has a better idea I am all ears.
During the 20 or so minutes I operated the engine the gauge climbed to 99F. A feel of the input and output hoses on the heat exchanger found a temp nice differential.
Engaging the transmission both directions and running up the RPM a bit each direction gave indication the alignment was good. I did not want to run too fast with the prop engaged as I was operating the controls from the engine compartment so I could keep an eye on things.
Had a little panic as I saw h2o dripping from the engine. Traced it back to the weep hole on the raw water pump. Does anyone have a sense of what a proper drip rate is so I can judge if the pump needs a rebuild?
Next small problem was no alternator output. Not really a surprise as I do not have a Yanmar panel and on looking at the diagram that is where the field voltage comes from. Next trip to the marina the field gets wired directly to my switched circuit that runs the circulating pump. I suspect this will solve the problem. I am also going to toss together a fast little project with a couple LEDs and a salvaged buzzer for the idiot lights. Will probably have to wire these direct as well as I have not been able to locate the connector that mates to the engine harness. Since I am good with electrics and electronics I see no reason to spend $400 on an idiot light panel!
Now for my questions.
1. Is the electric fuel pump needed or will the lifter pump do the job?
2. Does anyone see any issue with putting a T on the tank vent and using one side of the T for the fuel return and the other for the tank vent line to the transom.
3. What do folks suggest for fuel filters external to this small engine? For the test I just used an in-line automative style filter just like the Palmer had, in addition to the filter that was attached directly to the pump input acting as a thread to nipple adapter in the process.
4. Does anyone know of a source for the Yanmar wiring harness connectors that does not cost a small fortune? If not I will make due with a terminal strip.
So I have a little wiring to do, and some fuel line plumbing as well as probably pumping out some of the fuel I just put in so I can examine it in a few days and see if I have tank crud. No inspection ports in my tank.
