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Lazy Jacks on E26

Joe A.

New member
After two yearssailing my 87 E26, I've come to the conclusion I need to install lazy jacks. Wesail on steep L. Erie waves and lowering the main is a little too exciting formy comfort level. There is an excellent Good Old Boat article on the subjectand together with EY.O input I've grasped the pros and cons and decided I wantto make my own system. I would welcome anyone (particularly E26 owners) helpingme leap frog over a lot of trial and error work and point me to the rightoverall setup.<o:p></o:p>
 

Joe A.

New member
E26 lazy jacks

I went with a system that was similar to this: http://www.columbia-yachts.com/lazyjacks.jpgI use the reefing points at the mast end of the boom to secure the lazy jacks in the lowered position along the boom and then raise the lazy jacks when I want to lower the sail.PatE26-> Pronto
oin

thanks. I needed a starting point. also, since they say the support segments should be 70-75% up the mast, I assume you are not using your spreaders. If so any tips on holding down the noise?

Joe E26 'Half Fast'
 

SurabyaKid

Member III
The blocks I am using are mounted on the mast, just below the spreaders. I keep tension on them in the lowered position and don't get any noise.PatE26-> Pronto
 

Rocinante33

Contributing Partner
I recommend Guy's lazy jack system. See his link he sent you in post #3 in this thread. It is the one from Good Old Boat magazine. It works pretty well for me.
 

Second Star

Member III
On my E28+ we had LJ installed last year. In retrospect, the positioning of the main line (almost parallel with the backstay) and the aftermost vertical line is important. Ours is not quite right and the lower batten on the main'sle will catch under the main line when the sail is raised. If the after vetical line is positioned right, the batten is guided past the main line without snagging it. It will likely take a bit of fiddling around to position things optimally.
 

Joe A.

New member
E26 lazy jacks

SteppingStone, it's a work in progress. I attached a pic. A lot of boats around me seem to get away with only two loops around the boom but I experienced too much sail falling off the aft end so I've added a third loop which is what I planned anyway. It has worked good so far especially in rough conditions but I am still experimenting with an easier way to raise and lower the lines. My goal is not going up to the mast but so far I haven't quite figured the best way. I have blocks about 75% up the mast and hook the lowered jacks under the reefing hooks at the gooseneck. I'm using the existing mast cleats which seem to be doing the job for now plus I really don't want another set of cleats if I end up changing the system. The free ends are tied to the mast step so I don¹t lose them up the mast. I'm finding that a simple system has its drawbacks but doing it all from the a cockpit may be too complex. So I'm doing a lot of thinking (drinking on it) and hoping the perfect compromise will come to me in my sleep. If you want any more specifics don't hesittate to ask.
 

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joe-fran

Member II
laxy jack dyi

I just installed a set on my E 28 using Guy's article from Good Old Boat. I added 2 small plastic cleats on the mast just below the boom. When raising the sail I need to mind the first 2 battens to make sure they don't snag on the lines. I just did the install in May so I am still playing with the fine tuning of tenaion and lengths. I bought the components seperately and was much less $'s than the kits.
 

Randy Rutledge

Sustaining Member
I mounted a cheek block on the tab on the front of the mast near the spreaders. I have one halyard for the lazy jacks and the upper lines have an eye splice in the ends that are held by a snap shackle on the end of the halyard (the snap shackle makes it easier to remove the boom when tailoring the boat each year to the Dauphin Island Race). When lowered the lines cross under the pad eye on the front of the mast for the pole. All connections on my setup are eye splices with no hardware and this work well.

Due to a local flea market rope vendor who sells yacht braid the 1/4” yacht braid cost was about $15 and an hour of two of work. I have to go forward to raise and lower and I don’t think it would be worth it to lead lines back to the cockpit as bringing the sail down usually requires assistance at the mast.
 

steven

Sustaining Member
a trick to not snagging is to have the lines dropping vertically - that is parallel to the mast- - not at angles as shown in many publications. Mine are rigged with a pair of lines from high on the mast to the end of the boom; then three vertical pairs dropping to the boom. Looks kinda like a suspension bridge. Never snags. I leave them deployed all the time.
 
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