Lewmar Port Gaskets


Member III
Greetings All,

I have been tracking down replacement gaskets for my Lewmar operating ports. I've talked to a couple of Lewmar retailers who ended up referring me to Lewmar to work out the size I need. After going around with them I am informed that Lewmar made a custom size port for Ericson, the only manufacture they did this for. The size I'm giving people doesn't seem to match up with what they have which could be as simple as I have mis measured the opening.

I'm wondering if anyone has been through this already with their boat. I have a '88 E34. Lewmar thinks that if I don't have the custom port, the closest size to the dimensions I'm giving them is size 5.

Anybody been here before?

s/v Shadowfax

Charlie B.

Member II
I have an Ericson built Olson 34 made in 1988. I changed the gaskets on my Lewmar opening portlights this fall and was able to match the ports to the parts spreadheet that I downloaded from the Lewmar website. The spreadsheet is not exactly user friendly, but I was able to give the part number to our local chandlery (Sven's) and they had 3 in stock and the 4th ordered within a week. If Ericson did use a custom size, you might be able to alter an existing gasket by cutting and bonding the ends to fit.


Member III
After much research I have discovered that the Lewmar opening ports found on my '88 E34 are Old style Standard size1. The replacement gaskets are available as special order items from West Marine but I found them in stock at Oyster Bay Boat Works in LI, NY. Cost $14.00 ea. I believe these are the same ports found on the E32 & E38 of this vintage.


s/v Shadowfax

Chris Miller

Sustaining Member

just to clarify- you all are talking about the black gasket between the glass and the frame when closed, right? if so- did you happen to get the WM part number for special order? I have one that is in need of replacement and should probably have one on hand also.


Contributing Partner
I'll look tonight for the lewmar number on the package. Chris when you get a chance e-mail me your mailing address so I can send you the Volvo tickets when I get them. You said you wanted 4 right?


Member III
Yes, I'm talking about the balck gasket. The Lewmar # is 19898600. The I called Port Supply and they gave me a number that should be good for WM. That # is 182639.

WM and PS both have to order these so according to them it can take weeks. If you call a Lewmar [found on their web site] they have them in stock at propably the same price. I paid $14.00 at the Lewmar dealer

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Paul - Have you had leaks through these seals? Duh? Why else would you change them? At any rate, that is my question. :>)


Member III
Yes, the 2 ports in the main cabin and I'm suspecting the starboard side vee berth port also. These are all original equipment. I've rebeaded the ports themselves some time back. It seems that the barbred section of the gasket has split off from the actual gasket.

s/v Shadowfax


Member III
Gasket and Lens

Funny how things coincide. I just tore up one of my (brittle) gaskets and called Select Plastics. $3 per linear foot and they also provide the small o-rings for the handles.

The lens was quoted as $42.83 BUT apparently the exact color is not available anymore. They offered a few choices, which, they claim, will look very similar from the outside. I am holding off until I can stop by sometime and look at their selection.

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Installation Problems?

I am going to order some gaskets for my Lewmar size 1 opening ports on my 1987 E-34 which have started to leak - Defender Industries $14.

Are there any problems with the removal of the old or installation of the new gaskets? Tricks of the trade? Hints?


Member III
The originals where set in a caulk of some sort, at least on mine. Other then cleaning the groove out to fit the new it was pretty strait forward. Pick a nice hot day.

Kerry Kukucha

Member II
We have installed a couple of new gaskets - with great trouble & unacceptable results!

The Lewmar instructions suggest a bead of sealant be applied prior to instalation of the gasket, which has proven to be a challenge in that the gasket becomes slick & hard to install (chanels were completely clean). The greater challenge has been trying to get a water-tight seal around the corners of the portlight - it is nearly impossible to get the gasket "arrow" (which has been in the correct position per instructions) to catch in the corners.

Would welcome any insight or suggestions on how to overcome this challenge.

Lawrence B. Lee

Member III
New member

I bought new glazing and about 12 feet of gasket material from Select Plastics to re-do my portlights. The glazing change is straight forward but the gaskets were a bear. I got them in the groove with very little trouble but I couldn't shut the port light because the gaskets were too fat. Select Plastics swears the gasket is the right size and I need to put some heat on them to make them conform. At this writing I am off on another project on the boat so I have not had a chance to get the Admiral's hair dryer into the situation.

As for tints, we had Select rebuild both our on deck hatches. They did a nice job. I mean you can see the wind arrow while seated on either setee. Anyway, they no longer had the original Ericson tint so we settled for a copper tint which they described as Benetau brass. I wasn't wild about the Benetau label but the tint is just fine. Looking out they appear tintless but the brass tint does complement the teak below deck.

Lawrece B. Lee
Annabel Lee
Ericson 32-200


Member III
Paul et al.:

I went through this two years ago. Sorry for the late response. I had the fwd port and aft port portlights leaking badly and some seepage on two of the other ones (could it be the famed stbd list :)?). I spoke to Select Plastics and decided to replace all gaskets with their 'original' ones. Great help. BTW, I also replaced the lenses themselves. Recipe that worked was to scrape out the clear (?) sealant as much as possible, clean out w/ Acetone (don't get that on the lenses!) a few times. After dry-fitting the new gaskets (you have to glue them together in the right orientation) I then applied a thin bead of silicone on the outside of the channel. Squeezed in the gasket, made sure the corners are well seated and then closed the ports lightly.

I had also replaced all o-rings mwith new ones. Past vacuum experience definitely helps...

I also cleaned the expansion joint as much as possible from the outside and then soft-seamed it with a GE (black) gunk. I understrand from talking to Lewmar that shrinkage of the expansion plastic is often the reason for the leaks.

Result after two years are good. Only one of the stbd portlights has slight weepage around the fastener latch.

hope this helps.

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
No leaks

Thanx to all for the info.

The Lewmar gasket was glued together with the dart in the wrong position, but that wasn't much of a problem. It took two of us to close the port on the new gasket, but advice from Select Plastics said that was not a problem, and it will settle in.

They also suggested that replacing the gasket is usually unnecessary as it is the plastic inserts holding the frame together that cause most of the leaks. I talked to them after the port still leaked after dry fitting the gasket.

They said to seal it from both sides using silicon glop, being careful to not break the irreplaceable plastic trim ring. I sealed it from the outside only as my trim rings are held in with what is probably 5200 and the plastic is brittle from age. This worked for me.

I then taped all of the ports and applied silicon glop to the inserts.


O34 - Los Angeles
Reviving this thread... HELP!

I am in the process of replacing all the windows and seals in my (5) Lewmar Old Standard Size 1 opening ports. Mine are badly crazed and leak a little.

Bought the replacement acrylic lenses and handle seal o-rings from Hatchmasters - easy.

Bought 5 replacement seals from Defender.

Have the ports off the boat to re-bed them. Have removed the old 32 year old seals and cleaned the channel grooves for the new seal carefully.

Should be an easy thing to put a small bead of silicone in the groove and squish the arrow shaped lip into the channel, right? I followed the Lewmar instructions carefully. Got the top and bottom longer runs seated - that part was easy. Next step they say is the corners. I don't know if these instructions were written by some kind of sadist, but I found it impossible to get all four corners seated. Using every tool I could imagine, including a screen spline tool someone recommended on the internet. Gave up after 90 minutes as the silicone bead in the channel started to cure.

Anyone have the decoder ring on how to get these seals seated? Yes i am sure I have the right ones.

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Wow. No fun.
FWIW a friend of mine replaced the Lewmar seals in his 90's big Hunter, and he said the new seals have to go in one correct way, and it was easy to confuse which way that was....
He spent quite a bit of time on each one.
I will check with a friend who did this project on his E-38-200.

Kerry Kukucha

Member II
Just finished successfully re-bedding and installing new seals on a couple of Lewmar ports.

Removing the previous bedding material was a PITA, but critical to getting a good fit for the new Lewmar seals that went in. Do not damage the plastic spacers!

Found the trick to fitting the Lewmar seals was to:
- cut them (where they were originally fused together); trying to fit them as a continuous piece is impossible!
- dry fit them using a hard plastic handle/leaver (any device that you can exert pressure wit will do)
- start at the top and slowly/firmly press/squeeze the seal/arrow into the frame channel using the leaver; push even harder around the corners while exerting pressure from the free end, back towards that which has been inserted/afixxed
- wet test: if dry or water leaks from the plastic spacers or the seal connect point, you're probably OK (I had some leakage around the plastic spacer- added a dab of silicon at installation & found that the Lewmar frame, which has some flex when out, snugs in tight when rebedded)
- for final seal installation, run a bead of silicon around the arrow seal slot & surface where the seal will sit and where the seal ends meet, with portlight open (I used BoatLife Silicon); once seal is in, close portlight to squeeze out excess silicon

Rebedded the frames and all is good - no leaks!!

Hope this makes sense & helps....