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Lewmar replacement acrylic - 1988

Bob Robertson

Member III
Hi,

I'm working with a local auto glass company that also replaces hatch lenses (not sure of the proper terminology). Our boat has Lewmar hatches, 1988 vintage.
He has tried to sell me on Lexan, but my research has told me that Acrylic is the only way to go and it looks like some of the other members of the Ericson Information Exchange agree.
He has asked me if I could find out which Acrylic, manufacturer and model?, he should order.
Does anybody know what Lewmar recommends for replacement Acrylic? I tried to find a number to call on the Lewmar website, but I didn’t have any luck.

Thanks!
Bob
 
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ref_123

Member III
Blog agrees?

Er... Are we blog, really? :)

Anyway, I was pretty happy with the Lexan replacement we did a few years ago and as Lewmar advised BEFORE they switched to acryllic. Now I have another issue - the gasket is going... So, next step is the whole new hatch I guess as the price quoted to me by Select Plastics is just $50 cheaper then the new one. So, consider your options.

As for the source of acryllic - you can get 3/8 acryllic from any local plastic shop (Tap Plastics here in CA carries a good selection of colors). Just make sure the guy who deals with the new lens cuts it VERY precisely - or you will have hell of a time with handles fitting, leaks, etc.

Good luck with the project!

Stanly
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
I spoke with Select Plastics several months ago about rebuilding a 1985 vintage Super Hatch. The cost was roughly half that of a new current model Ocean 70 hatch; $400-$485 to rebuild, $876 (or thereabouts) new.

My concern with going for a new Ocean 70 is that the corner radius and the outside dimensions have changed slightly. I wasn't sure if I would have to re-drill all the mounting holes in the deck.

I can't imagine that the price to rebuild has gone up to within $50 of the new model.
 

treilley

Sustaining Partner
The quote I got from Select was less than $100 less than new Ocean 60s from Defender. The corner radius is fine. You will have to drill new holes but the old ones are covered under the new frame. When you are done, they will look factory without any major modifications or repairs.

I guess the price to rebuild 70s is more attractive.
 

Kerry Kukucha

Member II
We replaced all three hatch lights last year - were able to reuse the rubber gaskets that were still in good shape. There were a bunch of plastics guys locally who could supply & cut the 1/2" acrylic we were looking at (went with a light bronze colour) - they used the old lenses as templates & the fit was perfect! All in cost, including a couple of tubes of Dow Corning 795 & a roll of bitumin bedding tape (Sp?) was under $400 (Canadian). The finished product looks as good as new & if I recollect, about 1/3rd the cost of what Select would have charged.
 

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Protecting your hatch from the ravages of the sun, FYI.

Bob and all, Years ago I fitted a 10" opening hatch to the slope of the coach roof of our former 1979 E25+ and at the same time to a friend's E27, the one Ericson forgot to install on all the boats of that era. While talking to a plastics guy about that same time, he advised me to protect the lens from the heat of the sun. He went on to say that it's heat and cooling, heat and cooling as well as UV that causes the lenses to craze over time but mostly the heat. I added a single thickness of closed cell foam to the Sunbrella cover I had made, my friend didn't. That was over 15 years ago and the one in my former boat is still clear as the day I installed it. My friend didn't choose to insulate his and it's totally crazed. Glyn Judson, E31 hull 355, Marina del Rey, CA
 

SASSY

Member II
Lenses

I had the lenses replaced by Florida rigging and hydraulics (561)863-7444 ask for Tonya. I took the lids in on Monday, picked them up friday. All new seals, lenses and hardware. The cost for both super hatches, and the smaller size one hatch in front of the mast was $800.00. And I tell you they look great. They are a distributer for lewmar, and I found their prices to be decent. I purchased 9 new lenses, and gaskets for the lewmar opening portlights. They too look great, no more leaks. You can see in the pictures the difference the new lenses made. One of the more rewarding projects I did this summer.
 

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Brian K

Member III
Sunbrella Hatch Cover

Glyn, can you tell me a little more about the insulation in your Subrella hatch cover? I just completed Sunbrella covers for both of my hatches, however they are not insulated. The Sunbrella color is navy blue and I do have some concern about heat gain and subsequent effect on the acrylic. Is your insulation an integral part of the cover? Also I'm on Lake Ontario so I'm not sure the sun would have the same impact as you experience in FL.
 

Bob Robertson

Member III
Thanks

Hi,

I've been a bit slow to respond. I've been traveling a bit with my son.

Thanks for all of the good information. We live in Minneapolis and our boat is in Bayfield Wisconsin. I've been working with an auto glass guy in northern Wisconsin.

Based on the recommendations I think I will find a local plastics supplier here in Minneapolis to find the best acrylic solution. I'll let you know what I find out.

I liked the hatch cover idea. I think I'll ask my wife to make some covers. I'll have to see how that goes over.

Thanks again,
Bob
 
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Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Insulated hatch covers.

Brian, Bob and all, By the way, we're in SoCal, the same idea weather-wise as Florida but without the unbelievably oppressive humidity. The 1/4" closed cell foam on the hatch covers of my former boat were actually sewn into the cover at the time they were made. Think sealed up pillowcase with skirts on it and you've got the idea. I actually had them made with a second small pocket around the edges shorter than the outer skirt that held within it, a loop of shock cord. That allowed me to slip the over over the hatch until the shock cord contracted under the aluminum lip of the 10" Lewmar hatch. The foam once in that pocket, was not removable and simply became a part of the cover facilitating ease of storage below, etc when not in use. The plastics chap who gave me the hint in the first place, used as an example the fact that the area of the plastic under the hinges on my larger hatch just aft of the mast (which I was having remade using the old one as a pattern) showed no sign of crazing while all the rest of it did. He assured me that it was the heat-sink properties of the aluminum hinge, not so much UV that was the explanation for the lack of crazing. Now after all these 15+ years, I'd have to agree with his recommendation and that something as thin as 1/4" closed cell foam is all it took. Out of personal curiosity I actually check on this from time to time as this E25+, our former boat is owned by the same chap we sold her to and his slip is only one dock aft of our E31. I hope this explanation has has helped. As an aside, if interested to see the hatch installation and mating teak base I made for them, feel free to email me back channel at glynjudson@roadrunner.com and I'll be happy to send the images your way. Regards, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
 

Brian K

Member III
Thanks for the info Glyn. I should post pictures of my covers. I did consider the shock cord method of securing the covers, but opted to install 10-32 threaded stud snaps into the aluminum frame and the cover snaps right onto these stud snaps (or whatever you want to call them). The only problem I have is that the covers have a very snug fit and I don't know if I could stitch in the foam/Sunbrella sandwich. I'll have to check the temperature of the acrylic under the cover on a good sunny day when it gets warmer. If there is any significant heat gain I may just cut a 1/8" thick piece of white closed cell foam and set that on the acrylic under the cover. Thanks again Glyn.
 

Brian K

Member III
In case anyone is interested, here are some pictures of the covers I made for my hatches this winter. I drilled through the frame, used a 10-32 tap to thread the hole and cut the stud to fit the thickness of the frame. I did half with nuts on the inside and half just flush with the frame. There is a lot of room between the frame of the acrylic and the frame of the opening so the nuts should clear. I like the flush look better but I'll have to see how they hold up with use over time.
 

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Lucky Dog

Member III
Local Plastic supply

Bob,

I work in Mahtomedi, just west of Stillwater and have purchased plastic sheets
from;

Laird Plastics‎
1957 GATEWAY BLVD
ARDEN HILLS, MN 55112
(800) 873-8409
lairdplastics.com‎

We have a e35-II hoping to get it to Port Superior.

ml
 

Bob Robertson

Member III
Hi Mark,

I'll check it out. I talked with Lewmar and they told me they use Acrylite GP acrylic.

We've had our boat at Port Superior since it was new. We really like the marina, and the area.
Maybe I'll see you next summer.

Where do you keep your boat now?

Thanks,
Bob
 
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Bob Robertson

Member III
Getting closer

Hi,

I talked with Lewmar and they told me they use Acrylite GP acrylic.

Below are the three transparent Acrylite GP colors that I am working with. I'm not sure which color would be the closest match for what I have today. I'm leaning between dark smoke gray (104-1) and smoke gray (103-2), but more toward smoke gray (103-2).
I'm also thinking, as in maybe over thinking, that the bronze (131-2) would maybe give the interior wood a more golden glow when the sun was shining.

Any thoughts would be welcome.

I'll probably get up to the boat in a week or two to see which color best matches what I have now.

Thanks,
Bob

gp_transp_3.gif
 
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