Looking for some advice on our E29 tiller, rudder

[Dean29]

We have an E29, it's a new to us boat last year.
When we're anchored we are finding there to be some play causing it to clunk from incoming waves or some current as we sit. Is there potentially a worn bushing somewhere in the tiller/rudder assembly? Can it be repaired from the cockpit or do we need to address this when we haul out?
Any advice on what's happening and the repair process would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance!

 

[bigd14]

I solved a similar problem on an E27 by removing the rudder and having a machine shop lathe upper end of the rudder post smooth, and install a corresponding bronze sleeve in the tiller plate that is bolted to the cockpit floor. This removed all the slop. Good time to rebed the tiller plate to prevent leaks into the cockpit core material too.

 

[Dean29]

Thank you!!

 

[toddster]

As a cheap and immediate option, you might try also filling it with grease. It couldn't hurt. My boat came with a zerk fitting on the tiller head, but I had to add one in the bottom bearing.

I also had some play between the tiller bracket and head which could contribute a little clunk. And maybe to the minute "searching" of the autotiller. I filled in the gap with some thin delrin spacers.

 

[Dean29]

As a cheap and immediate option, you might try also filling it with grease. It couldn't hurt. My boat came with a zerk fitting on the tiller head, but I had to add one in the bottom bearing.

I also had some play between the tiller bracket and head which could contribute a little clunk. And maybe to the minute "searching" of the autotiller. I filled in the gap with some thin delrin spacers.

Thanks!

 

[Alan Gomes]

On my E26, I removed the side-to-side play by inserting stainless steel shims top and bottom. The one in the top could be inserted by simply removing the rudder cap and pushing it down from the top. The bottom shim, however, would need to be inserted when you haul the boat (or have it inserted by a diver).

(If you do shim the top with the boat in the water, I'd suggest tying a safety line underneath the rudder and tied to the port and starboard stern cleats. Although the rudder should be positively buoyant, if it is waterlogged it might not be.)

The attached diagram shows what I am talking about. On my boat, the top required a .005" thick shim and the bottom needed one that was thicker, at .015". I purchased these from McMaster-Carr. As an example, the .005" thick shim is part number 2317K15.

My friend Neil drew it up with a CAD program. (See attached.)

Note, by the way, that the rudder post only bears at the top (where it exits the cockpit) and the bottom (where it comes out the bottom of the hull). The rest of the tube does not bear any of the rudder load. And those are the only two places where play would be an issue.

 

[Dean29]

Thanks so much!

 

[toddster]

If it comes to that, the West Systems manual prescribes a method for renewing worn rudder bearings with their epoxy.

https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/Fiberglass-Manual-2015.pdf

 

[Dean29]

Thank you!

 

[Parrothead]

I have second hand experience with a WEST Systems epoxy remedy that was a near catastrophic failure. The boat was a Catalina 30 in New York and the result was a rudder glued solid in the boat. My involvement was after the fact, the design of a large torque tool to break the bond without damaging the hull, deck, rudder tube or rudder. Prior to developing the removal strategy the owner was looking at serious Sawzall® activity.

Regarding Alan's mention of the rudder loads bearing at the ends of the rudder tube, the WEST Systems remedy fills the center of the tube adding unnecessary rotational drag. It may not be that noticeable on a wheel steered boat but it's a huge factor on a tiller boat.