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Many new parts - Engine still in alignment?

Jarod

Member III
Hello All,

This weekend I will be installing a new shaft coupling, prop shaft, dripless seal, cutlass bearing and an Indigo prop. If the engine was in alignment prior to these upgrades is there any reason to think it will be out after I install these parts? I guess I am wondering if I will have to re-align the engine after I put the boat back in the water. The issue is I have never done an alignment and once the boat is splashed I pretty much have to be on my way back to my home marina. The yard is very busy with one boat after another being moved at this time of year and I will need to get out of the way. I am hoping I can just get going as soon as I splash and get the boat back to my marina and maybe check the alignment after a few days in the water. I have to motor for about an hour and if the engine is out will it cause any dmgs to run it that way?

The engine has not moved in the process of changing out these parts.

E27 with atomic 4

thanks jarod.
 

Emerald

Moderator
Your alignment should be fine. Obviously, if the flanges don't seem to still be square when you bring them together, do investigate as to why.
 

Cory B

Sustaining Member
Its probably still pretty close, but I'd double-check it after a few days in the water. An old worn cutlass can hide minor (previous?) alignment problems. I wouldn't worry about hurting anything motoring to the marina - just don't redline it. :)

For just a quick sanity check, while still in the yard put the transmission in neutral and manually turn the prop from underneath to make sure it turns freely.
 
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sleather

Sustaining Member
Motor mounts?

Straight replacement "should" be OK, as Emerald said. One thing to watch out for, when you disassemble your existing rig, check the alignment while disassembling the existing flanges. There may have been some deterioration(settlement) of the motor mounts. If it comes apart "clean and square", the replacement should be OK.

OOPS, Seems you are disassembled, notice anything odd?
 
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mherrcat

Contributing Partner
I was following your other thread about removing your shaft coupling and was wondering if you are doing all the replacement work for the parts you mentioned yourself, or is the yard doing the work? The reason I ask is that I am considering many of the same repairs soon and was curious what kind of cost I am looking at if the yard does the work.

I have never done any of this myself and in addition to the cost of any tools I might need is the time it would take me versus someone with experience. The boat will be pulled soon for bottom painting and I figured this is the time to do it all. It might be worth it in terms of time and effort to just have the yard do the work. Plus, if anything goes wrong, it would be the yard's responsibility to make it right.
 

Jarod

Member III
As mentioned above I had a heck of a time getting the old coupling off so I have no idea if it was square as it was a complete ball of rust and required a sawzall to remove. With respect to my experience with the yard guys ....they generally know less than me and believe me I dont know much! They installed some new thru hulls for me and they didnt use plywood backers or flanged seacocks so i had to tell them to rip it out and do it right. After seeing how they did that job i decided to do the driveline parts myself as it seems pretty straight forward. You really don't want to pay the yard guys to remove rusty couplings etc as it can literally take days and in the end I was the one who got it off anyway, but they will still charge me for their time. That being said I know there are good yard guys out there and if they dont run into complications i would think they would be able to swap out all of the components in a day, but this is a boat and there are always complications. At this point I will be paying the yard guys to do the thru hulls and a bit of $$ for their sad attempt to get my coupling off. I think the fact that i have a vested interest in the boat makes my repairs/upgrades better than what others would do. If I have a question I ask it here and I buy the right tools for the jobs, which I see as an investment..not too mention the feeling of satisfaction and the experience gained. My boat will be new from the bottom of the keel to the top of the mast when I am done. It still won't be worth much but I dont care I am going to keep it for many years.
 

Emerald

Moderator
I think the fact that i have a vested interest in the boat makes my repairs/upgrades better than what others would do. If I have a question I ask it here and I buy the right tools for the jobs, which I see as an investment..

Bingo!! I've been telling people this for years - caring makes a huge difference, and that tool inventory will pay for itself over and over - buy good tools, you'll never regret it - buy cheap tools and you'll buy them again :rolleyes:
 

Randy Rutledge

Sustaining Member
The long way to E29 manual page 74

Study, ask and do it yourself and do it well.
From what you are replacing the alignment will be the same as before. Slightly low and off to the torque load supporting side due to the motor supports wear. If it worked going over for the haul it will work going back. You will find that when doing the alignment that the prop shaft coupling end will move up and down and side to side due to the length and play in the cutlass bearing give. Just find center of the orbit and make the flanges mate evenly. I snug the coupling on a feeler gauge at one bolt and check for the same gap at the other points around the coupling, raising the engine rear opens the top, moving the rear to port opens the gap on port and so on. Or look on page 74 of the E29 manual from this site and enjoy.
Have lots of tequila or beer on hand for after the job not during.
 

jkenan

Member III
One basic point worth mentioning - alignment must always be done while the boat is in the water due to how hydraulic pressures against the hull flex the hull, which affects engine alignment. When the boat is out of the water, these pressures don't exist, and hull is not in it's 'at home' state, kinda like a fish out of water, literally.
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
Jarod,

Where did you source your parts for this job? I'm starting to look for pricing on the same parts for an E30+. Did you order them online or from a local supplier?

Thanks!

Mark
 

Jarod

Member III
Hi There,

The dripless came from a local distributor; however, i paid a premium for the convenience. There is one online distributor with great prices on PSS shaft seals sorry the name escapes me at the moment, but the internet would be your best bet. If you have an Atomic Four and need the shaft coupling or any other parts for an Atomic 4 go to Moyer Marine...the prop came from Indigo electronics; however this prop is only applicable to an Atomic four gas engine. I would go local on the prop shaft although you can order online. The reason I say local on the prop shaft is ...if anything is out of spec or you need some changes made he is right there you don't want to be shipping out your prop shaft for changes while paying lay days in the yard.

You should have your new coupling(or old coupling) and your old shaft onhand when you go to the machinist. If you don't know of any machinists just go to your local marine mechanics shop and they will take care of it for you(will likely charge a bit to act as the middle man). The shaft is made to be a perfect fit for your particular coupling so they will need it to make the shaft (ask them to supply new key stock and a retaining nut/pin for the prop).

There really isnt any special tools required unless you need a sawzall or die grinder to get the old coupling off. It is pretty much wrenches, allen keys, hammer, locktite (medium strength) etc etc.

If any pounding is required to install the shaft or prop always use a block of wood between the hammer and the part. Also don't get carried away with the hammer. If something is going really hard then there may be something out of alignment....don't hit anything too hard!
 
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