When you do replace the standing rig, add a self-contained hydraulic BS adjuster and also a new turnbuckle. That's what we did a long time ago. That way if, for any reason, the hydraulic one leaks out or somehow looses function while you are cruising hundreds of miles from home, you can always take up on the turnbuckle and have basic tension again. That's a hint from a rigger that I have known for years.I’m definitely a cruiser, and a pretty casual one at that. I don’t think a backstay adjuster would be on my list for quite a while. I’d be much more inclined to replace all the existing standing rigging first.
Added to the list.....When you do replace the standing rig, add a self-contained hydraulic BS adjuster and also a new turnbuckle.
Agreed - I have the same mast. It's made tapered in the top section, not bent back. Nothing to see here ... move along ;-)I think our rigs are tapered which would give the appearance of bend when you look at the front. Does it still look like there's a curve when you look at the back of the mast?
It's uncanny, but whichever model of the Loos gauge you get, the wire size range that it covers is one wire short of the whole set you need. For my Beneteau 235, the LP-1 did all stays except one stay. I had to get the PT-2 for that biggest stay. I sold the PT-1 to a friend when I got my E32-3, but now the LP-2 doesn't go up to the size of the forestay. But, as it's a masthead rig, I think I can get the forestay right if I get the backstay right. BTW, I see that Spinlock makes nice-looking gauges too.Kenneth, Now you have me thinking about the rigging I stumbled across this video. This tension measurement tool can be found on amazon for 110 to 260 bucks. It Would complement the other tools on the boat nicely!
IMHO, you are mostly right... but after using the BS to tension up the forestay, we can also bend our spar about 4 to 6 inches. If... our main were cut specifically for this, it would help to flatten the main. We have never tightened it sufficient to really do that. Partly because we do not need the extra nano-knot as we would if racing, and partly because it seems like extra stress on the boat for minimal return.I don't understand mast bend in a masthead sloop with in-line spreaders and no baby stay. On a fractional rig it makes perfect sense, but on a masthead rig it just seems to be compressing the mast to the point of buckling. What's keeping the mast from bending in the wrong direction? It seems more likely that a backstay tensioner on a masthead rig just tensions the forestay. On our keel stepped rigs, is the mast partners providing the necessary 3rd point to induce bend (in the correct direction)?
I came to this same conclusion after thinking this through several times. With a masthead rig, in order to bow or flex the mast, one has to be compress the spar hard enough to distort the aluminum extrusion. That's an (ahem) boatload of force. Is the mast designed for that? Probably. Is the 30-40 year old TAFG/Hull combo? (And how would one find out if the answer was no?)I don't understand mast bend in a masthead sloop with in-line spreaders and no baby stay. On a fractional rig it makes perfect sense, but on a masthead rig it just seems to be compressing the mast to the point of buckling. What's keeping the mast from bending in the wrong direction? It seems more likely that a backstay tensioner on a masthead rig just tensions the forestay. On our keel stepped rigs, is the mast partners providing the necessary 3rd point to induce bend (in the correct direction)?