Rocinante33
Contributing Partner
halyard
Carlos,
On our E-33, we changed to 3/8" main halyard. That is certainly strong enough with today's high strength lines. It also fits the hand well, but it is not too big for the sheaves, but any bigger may bind on the sheaves. I cannot say for certain, but would worry about bigger sizes.
Keith
Carlos,
On our E-33, we changed to 3/8" main halyard. That is certainly strong enough with today's high strength lines. It also fits the hand well, but it is not too big for the sheaves, but any bigger may bind on the sheaves. I cannot say for certain, but would worry about bigger sizes.
Keith
7/16 ? Oh my...
That size would do fine for an anchor line on a 30 footer. Overkill for a halyard, IMHO.
Our 5/16" hi-tec halyard line is rated at 7K pounds...
:nerd:
Biggest problem you may find is arriving at a minimum line size that will still hold in your old stock clutches on the housetop. :thinker:
When we got rid of all the old wire-rope halyards we tried 3/8 on a couple of them, and found that it was binding to some extent in the masthead sheaves, so then went with 5/16.
Since you will still finish the hoist with the halyard winch like before, the 5/16 is an OK size for handling, IMHO.
Anyway, please think about the amount of weight aloft you would gain with the "monster" size you are contemplating, and then there is the limitation of width in those sheaves up there.
Don't forget to take the sheaves out for a quick machining to smooth out two decades of wire halyard gouges -- you do not want to be abraiding that new spendy line.
Loren in PDX
'88 34 foot (Ericson) Olson, Kenyon spar.
That size would do fine for an anchor line on a 30 footer. Overkill for a halyard, IMHO.
Our 5/16" hi-tec halyard line is rated at 7K pounds...
:nerd:
Biggest problem you may find is arriving at a minimum line size that will still hold in your old stock clutches on the housetop. :thinker:
When we got rid of all the old wire-rope halyards we tried 3/8 on a couple of them, and found that it was binding to some extent in the masthead sheaves, so then went with 5/16.
Since you will still finish the hoist with the halyard winch like before, the 5/16 is an OK size for handling, IMHO.
Anyway, please think about the amount of weight aloft you would gain with the "monster" size you are contemplating, and then there is the limitation of width in those sheaves up there.
Don't forget to take the sheaves out for a quick machining to smooth out two decades of wire halyard gouges -- you do not want to be abraiding that new spendy line.
Loren in PDX
'88 34 foot (Ericson) Olson, Kenyon spar.
Frank Langer
1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
I also have an E30+, and the halyard was recently replaced with 3/8" line, and works well. A bit smaller, as Loren suggests, might also be fine; I certainly wouldn't go larger than 3/8".
Frank.
Frank.
mast sheaves
Thanks for the replies.
I'll admit that 7/16 is a bit over kill, but I usually over engineer everything anyway. Do you think 3/8 4,400# Sta-set is good enough for my halyards? All of my clutches are 3/8 to 7/16, so I can't go any smaller unless I swap out clutches. How do you calculate the forces on the halyards anyway?
I would still like to replace the sheaves if possible. Can I hoist myself up to the top of the mast with the main halyard and replace the sheaves or do I need some other way to hold myself while swapping them out?
Thanks for the replies.
I'll admit that 7/16 is a bit over kill, but I usually over engineer everything anyway. Do you think 3/8 4,400# Sta-set is good enough for my halyards? All of my clutches are 3/8 to 7/16, so I can't go any smaller unless I swap out clutches. How do you calculate the forces on the halyards anyway?
I would still like to replace the sheaves if possible. Can I hoist myself up to the top of the mast with the main halyard and replace the sheaves or do I need some other way to hold myself while swapping them out?
Frank Langer
1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Carlos, others will know better, but I think the line would be fine for your halyard (a local rigger should be able to confirm this for you as well). Normally a halyard would be fine to use with a bosun's chair and the usual safety measures to ensure you get safely to the top and back down--but I don't think it will work if you are also wanting to replace the halyard sheave that the halyard will be resting on with all your weight on it: :0305_alar 
Frank.
Frank.
Chris Miller
Sustaining Member
Fwiw, safe working loads on your shackles are going to be far lower than your halyards. 3/8ths should have around 4500 lbs tensile breaking strength. Breaking strength on a 1/4" key halyard shackle is 3745.
We use 3/8ths dyneema blend on our 38-200 and don't have issues.
As far as sheaves, we went to all rope and just lightly sanded the sheaves to de-burr after consulting a rigging company. We'll probably replace them when the stick is down (this winter), but didn't see it as a big issue.
Chris
We use 3/8ths dyneema blend on our 38-200 and don't have issues.
As far as sheaves, we went to all rope and just lightly sanded the sheaves to de-burr after consulting a rigging company. We'll probably replace them when the stick is down (this winter), but didn't see it as a big issue.
Chris
Replaced Halyard and sheave
Hi guys;
I finally got around to replacing my wire halyard with all rope. First I called a rigger that would not return my calls. for two weeks I left messages. Finally I got his secretary. She said he would be busy for the next two weeks. I said I could wait for the two weeks, but they never called me back. So I decided I would do it myself. I figured I would probably be climbing the mast many times anyway, so I bought a ladder and safety harness. Attached is a photo taken from above.
It was not a problem to climb the ladder. You just place it in the main halyard track and hoist it up. Once I was up there I just clipped my safety harness on to the top of the mast. There are a lot of places for me to clip onto. Then I disconnected the halyard from the ladder and replaced the sheave. After I climbed back down the ladder I pulled through a new all rope (3/8" Sta-Set) halyard.
Hi guys;
I finally got around to replacing my wire halyard with all rope. First I called a rigger that would not return my calls. for two weeks I left messages. Finally I got his secretary. She said he would be busy for the next two weeks. I said I could wait for the two weeks, but they never called me back. So I decided I would do it myself. I figured I would probably be climbing the mast many times anyway, so I bought a ladder and safety harness. Attached is a photo taken from above.
It was not a problem to climb the ladder. You just place it in the main halyard track and hoist it up. Once I was up there I just clipped my safety harness on to the top of the mast. There are a lot of places for me to clip onto. Then I disconnected the halyard from the ladder and replaced the sheave. After I climbed back down the ladder I pulled through a new all rope (3/8" Sta-Set) halyard.
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