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Mast step electrical routing

Peter34

Member I
Hi all,

Working on re-wiring electrics up/down the mast. I have coax, wind, & mast light. They were previously wired through the mast step at the deck with connectors fitted to the mast step itself (coax, 7-pin, and 4-pin). However, these became corroded. My inclination is to actually route them directly through the deck using a blue sea systems cable clam (would probably need three cable clams actually), then connect to a terminal block mounted on the inside deck ceiling or upper mast support inside the cabin. This would allow me access to trouble shoot for faults. Downside is that it would be a little bit of a pain to open up the clams to place/remove cables each time I step the mast. Also would have to patch up 3 holes in the mast step (presents a separate question of the best way to patch those holes?). See attached photos. Curious what others think of that idea or if you'd do it differently? Thanks for the input.
 

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Pete the Cat

Sustaining Member
Hi all,

Working on re-wiring electrics up/down the mast. I have coax, wind, & mast light. They were previously wired through the mast step at the deck with connectors fitted to the mast step itself (coax, 7-pin, and 4-pin). However, these became corroded. My inclination is to actually route them directly through the deck using a blue sea systems cable clam (would probably need three cable clams actually), then connect to a terminal block mounted on the inside deck ceiling or upper mast support inside the cabin. This would allow me access to trouble shoot for faults. Downside is that it would be a little bit of a pain to open up the clams to place/remove cables each time I step the mast. Also would have to patch up 3 holes in the mast step (presents a separate question of the best way to patch those holes?). See attached photos. Curious what others think of that idea or if you'd do it differently? Thanks for the input.
Why would you not simply replace the connectors? And protect them this time with some CorrosionX or Boeshield and a mast collar boot?. I do not like putting more holes in a deck, especially in a deck stepped arrangement.
 

Peter34

Member I
Why would you not simply replace the connectors? And protect them this time with some CorrosionX or Boeshield and a mast collar boot?. I do not like putting more holes in a deck, especially in a deck stepped arrangement.
I definitely have been considering this. Down side is that for any future repairs or trouble shooting it is very difficult to get inside the mast step which is bolted and sealed to the deck. I have it off now, but really don't want to have to take off again if I don't have to. Also, same with accessing inside the mast support inside the deck. I guess if I could replace the connectors and know that they would actually be waterproof and functional . . .
 

bigd14

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
I went through this recently after having a leak through the mast step wiring hole that I couldn't stop. This despite a standpipe installation that was supposed to prevent water ingress. The water was damaging the interior bulkhead and woodwork. At the last haulout I updated the wiring run and installed two deck glands. I am happy with the arrangement. The two new holes in the deck are a bit behind the mast step in the cabin top area, so I am not worried about structural issues. The wiring runs go to a terminal block and can easily be removed and the deck glands (Scanstrut) can be opened up easily as well.


 
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klb67pgh

Member III
I definitely have been considering this. Down side is that for any future repairs or trouble shooting it is very difficult to get inside the mast step which is bolted and sealed to the deck. I have it off now, but really don't want to have to take off again if I don't have to. Also, same with accessing inside the mast support inside the deck. I guess if I could replace the connectors and know that they would actually be waterproof and functional . . .
Peter,

I have an E25 with masthead wiring through the mast step like yours. My existing connectors were aviation plug connectors that needed to be replaced. I ran new wiring to the masthead and replaced bulbs with LED bulbs. I also ran a new to me Raymarine windvane wire and exited that wire where the old VHF cable exited the mast step. That plug needed to be a 5 pin plug (I think) which proved to be challenging to find. I do not have masthead VHF (not needed where I sail). I bought 2 stainless M12 90 degree connectors that have worked well for me. They require smaller gauge wire, which was fine since I switched to LED lights. I have a post on here asking for feedback on these M12 plugs as I had not seen them used. I don't have a good pic of the male end mounted in the holes in the mast given how my mast is stored but I got this pic today while working at my boat.

Having said that, I can see the benefit of using a through-deck cable gland set up for mast wiring.

On another note, if you have or are pulling up your mast step, if your centerboard line sheeve is not free, I suggest you replace it. It was the last thing I replaced on my E25 and made a substantial improvement in the ease of raising my centerboard.

20250126_122102.jpg
 

Peter34

Member I
Peter,

I have an E25 with masthead wiring through the mast step like yours. My existing connectors were aviation plug connectors that needed to be replaced. I ran new wiring to the masthead and replaced bulbs with LED bulbs. I also ran a new to me Raymarine windvane wire and exited that wire where the old VHF cable exited the mast step. That plug needed to be a 5 pin plug (I think) which proved to be challenging to find. I do not have masthead VHF (not needed where I sail). I bought 2 stainless M12 90 degree connectors that have worked well for me. They require smaller gauge wire, which was fine since I switched to LED lights. I have a post on here asking for feedback on these M12 plugs as I had not seen them used. I don't have a good pic of the male end mounted in the holes in the mast given how my mast is stored but I got this pic today while working at my boat.

Having said that, I can see the benefit of using a through-deck cable gland set up for mast wiring.

On another note, if you have or are pulling up your mast step, if your centerboard line sheeve is not free, I suggest you replace it. It was the last thing I replaced on my E25 and made a substantial improvement in the ease of raising my centerboard.

View attachment 51932
Thanks. You bring up another point - raising my centerboard has been super challenging. I actually hadn't thought of replacing the masthead sheeve. I was actually considering changing the pulley ratio in the mast support up to 4:1 - I'm new to this stuff but I think my current set up is a 3:1 ratio. I'm actually not really sure why it is so challenging to raise - I have never been able to actually look at the centerboard itself (i'll probably try and put the boat in a lake this spring and dive down). you think just the friction on an old sheeve in the masthead is enough to cause significant force increase?
 

klb67pgh

Member III
Thanks. You bring up another point - raising my centerboard has been super challenging. I actually hadn't thought of replacing the masthead sheeve. I was actually considering changing the pulley ratio in the mast support up to 4:1 - I'm new to this stuff but I think my current set up is a 3:1 ratio. I'm actually not really sure why it is so challenging to raise - I have never been able to actually look at the centerboard itself (i'll probably try and put the boat in a lake this spring and dive down). you think just the friction on an old sheeve in the masthead is enough to cause significant force increase?
In short - yes, if the sheeve under the mast step is frozen or broken, then you are just dragging the centerboard line across it. See my post HERE:

HERE is another good discussion.

I would work on those possibilities rather than adding leverage via a 4:1. I can crank my CB up with one hand now and almost no bracing with another hand or foot.
 
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