Mast work begins... first surprise

[JPS27]

We got the mast down with no mishaps on Wednesday. It's always rewarding watching and learning from folks who know what they are doing.

I was surprised to find that my masthead is welded to the mast. From diagrams I found on the eyo site I expected it to be detachable. Is this common? I assume I can still replace the sheaves with the mast down if necessary. I was planning on at least considering replacing the sheaves for a few reasons: I'm sure they are original, I replaced the wire to rope halyards a long time ago but not the sheaves, two of them look very pitted, etc. There is a wood sleeve piece between them that is visibly cracked.

I'm assuming that with the mast down, this work might be tedious and cramped but doable. I thought I'd contact zephyrworks based on what I've read on this site. Any advice on what to do or not do? thanks. Jay

 

[Jerry VB]

My E27 masthead was also welded to the mast; that is standard (in my limited knowledge). FWIW, I do not recall having "doublers" welded to the sides of the masthead. That may be strengthening or a repair but should be immaterial to your project.

I considered replacing the sheaves on my E27 but never did (did not know about Zepherworks).

 

[bigd14]

I got new sheaves for my old E27 from here: https://www.zephyrwerks.com/

 

[Chschaus]

The mast head on my Kenyon spar on the 35-3 is welded. I am looking to replace the scheaves this winter, I also am looking @ Zephyrwerks.

 

[JPS27]

Here is how my topping lift is attached at the mast head. Any more elegant ideas? It seems like there'd be a better way and place to secure the topping lift. The sheave in the tiny block the topping lift is tied off to has deteriorated.

There's not a lot of room in there and this is probably why the thin piece of wood is cracked.

I assume that sliver of wood is meant to keep lines from jumping?

The good news is that all old wiring has been pulled out, new wiring pulled through. The long-missing anchor light has been replaced. Other upgrades to continue next week.

 

[bgary]

I'm assuming that with the mast down, this work might be tedious and cramped but doable. I thought I'd contact zephyrworks based on what I've read on this site.

yes, tedious and cramped but doable.

When I rehabbed my masthead I took off everything except the halyard sheaves in order to give myself room to work (remove the pins that hold the headstay and backstay toggles, for example.)

Then before pulling the halyard-sheave pins, I worked a piece of light line all the way around the sheave and pulled it tight. It gave me something to hold onto when pulling the pin and ensured that the sheave didn't fall into some place where I couldn't get it out. Same approach when putting the sheaves back in, it was super useful to have a "handle" for maneuvering the sheave into the right spot for the pin.

And a big "+1" to zephywerks - I got all new sheaves from them (black delrin with bronze bushings) and have been very happy with them. Great quality, decent price and, if needed, he'll make them to your spec (e.g., if the sheave box isn't quite straight, he'll guide you through taking the measurements he needs to make the sheave).

Bruce

 

[klb67pgh]

Re the topping lift, I have a tang off of the backstay clevis pin (inside of the back stay), and in the other end of the tang a double jaw toggle. I used 7/64 dyneema and put a brumel eye splice and sail thimble in the eye and attach the loop to the tang with a clevis pin. The dyneema extends down to a 3 feet or so from the boom and another eye splice and a small harken block. I have sta set attached to an eye on the boom, running up to the block, down to a cheek block on the starboard aft end of the boom, forward through a few guides and cleated on a horn cleat. It could be run to the cockpit with additional hardware. I have to go to the mast to raise the main, so I just ease the topping lift and then raise the main. My flag halyard now runs to the top of the mast - as shown was a temporary fix for last season.

 

[Mark F]

Hi Jay,
My 1976 E27 has the same setup for the masthead. Southpaw's reinforced masthead cheeks looks great and something others might consider. Keep an eye on the holes for the headstay. I had my headstay fall off (under full headsail) because the pin holding the headstay to the masthead tore through the masthead cheeks. I fabricated cheek "doublers" from 1/4" 6061-T6 aluminum plate and used JB Weld to stiffen things up. I figured the bolts running through the old cheeks would be strong enough but the JB Weld couldn't hurt. These are photos 3 or so years after the fix.

fix

 

[Mark F]

Hi Jay,
My 1976 E27 has the same setup for the masthead. Southpaw's reinforced masthead cheeks looks great and something others might consider. Keep an eye on the holes for the headstay. I had my headstay fall off (under full headsail) because the pin holding the headstay to the masthead tore through the masthead cheeks. I fabricated cheek "doublers" from 1/4" 6061-T6 aluminum plate and used JB Weld to stiffen things up. I figured the bolts running through the old cheeks would be strong enough but the JB Weld couldn't hurt. These are photos 3 or so years after the fix. View attachment 43625

fixView attachment 43624

 

[alexwilliamrussell]

We got the mast down with no mishaps on Wednesday. It's always rewarding watching and learning from folks who know what they are doing.

I was surprised to find that my masthead is welded to the mast. From diagrams I found on the eyo site I expected it to be detachable. Is this common? I assume I can still replace the sheaves with the mast down if necessary. I was planning on at least considering replacing the sheaves for a few reasons: I'm sure they are original, I replaced the wire to rope halyards a long time ago but not the sheaves, two of them look very pitted, etc. There is a wood sleeve piece between them that is visibly cracked.

I'm assuming that with the mast down, this work might be tedious and cramped but doable. I thought I'd contact zephyrworks based on what I've read on this site. Any advice on what to do or not do? thanks. Jay

.. Does mast just lift off from the Deck? No glue, bolts, at base? My Ericson 25 has stuff broke up top, and I rarely sail, so nice to lower mast to deck for Hurricane Season since mast is about half the wind load. I had Macgregor 26d I could with some ropes lower mast myself, when I was younger and stronger, ha. ALEX

 

[alexwilliamrussell]

We got the mast down with no mishaps on Wednesday. It's always rewarding watching and learning from folks who know what they are doing.

I was surprised to find that my masthead is welded to the mast. From diagrams I found on the eyo site I expected it to be detachable. Is this common? I assume I can still replace the sheaves with the mast down if necessary. I was planning on at least considering replacing the sheaves for a few reasons: I'm sure they are original, I replaced the wire to rope halyards a long time ago but not the sheaves, two of them look very pitted, etc. There is a wood sleeve piece between them that is visibly cracked.

I'm assuming that with the mast down, this work might be tedious and cramped but doable. I thought I'd contact zephyrworks based on what I've read on this site. Any advice on what to do or not do? thanks. Jay

About what does a Mast weigh? 200?

 

[klb67pgh]

About what does a Mast weigh? 200?

There are several posts on here about mast lowering. Here is one.

Mast lowering

2 people can easily list and carry an E25 mast. I've carried mine myself. I doubt it is 100 lbs.

 

[alexwilliamrussell]

There are several posts on here about mast lowering. Here is one.

Mast lowering

2 people can easily list and carry an E25 mast. I've carried mine myself. I doubt it is 100 lbs.

Thanks.... My mast has no hinge at all,...

 

[Loren Beach]

Thanks.... My mast has no hinge at all,...

The "tabernacle" was an option on many boats in sizes much over 22 to 24 feet. When someone was reading down thru the option ($) list, in January, at the boat show, they needed to decide how much to add to the "bottom line".....
I have been on both sides of that quandary.

 

[Todd charchenko]

Here is how my topping lift is attached at the mast head. Any more elegant ideas? It seems like there'd be a better way and place to secure the topping lift. The sheave in the tiny block the topping lift is tied off to has deteriorated.

There's not a lot of room in there and this is probably why the thin piece of wood is cracked.

I assume that sliver of wood is meant to keep lines from jumping?

The good news is that all old wiring has been pulled out, new wiring pulled through. The long-missing anchor light has been replaced. Other upgrades to continue next week.

my topping lift runs thru a cheek block on the starboard side then down to a cleat at the base of the mast. My Mast Head is also welded but i found it very easy to service my sheaves with the mast down i also changed all of the bulbs and inspected all of the components attached lights,blocks,wiring etc so i would not have to go up the mast to change a bulb

 

[JPS27]

I'm putting my masthead back together with parts supplied by zephyrwerks.

My most pressing question is ... should my pins for the forestay and backstays be bolts with nuts? Or is it acceptable to have pins ("5/16" axels") with properly sized cotter pins. I asked zephyrworks for pins for the stays, but after revisting the help and pics I got on this thread, I'm second guessing myself.

Pics of current situation to clarify. One pic of new external chainplates. And the rings are there just to allow for easy dismantling while we work things out.