Need information for the external prop shaft diameter of the 35-3...

1911tex

Sustaining Member
Please direct me to the information, did a search to no avail>>>Need for a new aluminum anode install: Remains of old one is visible on my boat a year ago during a bottom re-coat, did not think to measure the diameter:
 

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Dave G.

1984 EY30+ Ludington, MI
Pic looks like a 1" shaft. You should ne able to measure it behind the coupler though. What engine ?
 

debonAir

Member III
Mine is 1", and you probably will find a Zinc anode (not Aluminum) unless you look carefully

Also, as usual, Maine Sail has proper instructions for anode install. I started following them and actually saw a big difference in anode consumption (which is good).

Basically: Use a wire brush on a drill to brighten up the insides of the anode (wear leather gloves!), then use 220 paper to brighten up shaft where anode will go, then tuf-gel the stainless bolts before attaching the anode. Finally, tap the anode onto the shaft with a light blow on each side to seat it before final tighten.
 

wynkoop

Member III
If you can not get to the shaft just aft of the shaft coupling inside to drop a caliper on it then just wait till you are pulled. Anodes are common and I expect where you get the boat pulled they will have at least 3/4 and 1 inch on hand.

I have been putting 2 anodes on my boat at each pull, but then again I often do not pull it for years at a time. I second the above about making sure all parts are nice and shiny as well as tapping the anode onto the shaft before final tightening.
 

1911tex

Sustaining Member
Pic looks like a 1" shaft. You should ne able to measure it behind the coupler though. What engine ?
M25, 5421.
Many thanks folks....great info and I appreciate it very much! More than likely it is a 1" as debonAir mentioned..as he has the same ship...and as Dav G and wynloop suggested...try and drop a caliper aft of shaft coupling inside as confirmation.
 
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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
interesting the 35-3 jumped to 1", while the 35-2 is a measly 3/4".......!
The 35-2 was designed back in the era of the A4 gas auxiliary, and I know of other similar displacement sailboats from other builders that also used a 3/4" shaft. By the mid to late 70's more builders were starting to install diesels and my surmise is the high torque per stroke was problematical for the smaller OD shafts. I know of early Catalina 30's with bronze 3/4" shafting, too.

Strictly IMHO, this is one of those normal challenges of upgrading an older boat of any make. Good thing the E-35-2 was both a good sailing boat and has killer good looks, so that owners feel encouraged to update it continuously.

*Sidebar: and grist for a different thread... but has anyone calculated whether putting an electric motor conversion above a certain power level in an older sailboat with the smaller shafting might twist the shaft a bit if too much current was applied too fast? In vehicles one of the selling points of electric motive power is 100% torque at zero mph. (?)
 
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garryh

Member III
it was the killer good looks that got me into this! : )
but... I had an even earlier Pearson 30 with a 7/8 shaft with an A4 which I thought was as small as they wd go. I think I will be able to enlarge to a 7/8 with a cutless bearing change... on my list!
There was a thread on this earlier so will not hijack this one further : )
 

garryh

Member III
(except that... I have friends with an early 80's Catalina with an A4, and the shaft is 1".
The 3/4 on the 35-2 might be marginally adequate, but still measly : )
 

RCsailfast

Member II
Yes it is a 1” Magnesium Anode for fresh water. Need to pick one up too.
check out Marine Know How for Anode best practices. Never hurts to pick up tricks. Not just for kids
 

1911tex

Sustaining Member
Thanks everyone....Just received my 1" magnesium from Jamestown...drop shipped direct from Land n Sea out of Houston? $23.54
 

wynkoop

Member III
After I complete Silver Maiden's refit I am considering the great loop. Will I have problems for the fresh water half of the trip having zinc instead of magnesium on the shaft?

I am still about 2 years out on this, but I figure it is never too soon to plan. Fresh water would be from exiting the Hudson Fiord (not really a river) until of course the tidal areas of whichever river I decide to ride to the Gulf.
 

RCsailfast

Member II
Magnesium for fresh water
Aluminum for brackish
Zinc for salt water
There is a chart with electron discharge due to galvanic. Magnesium works best in non conductive water, but gets eaten up fast in salt water. Zinc won’t due anything in non conductive. Aluminum covers the gap in brackish to do its job but not wear out to fast.
 
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