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New Heat Exchanger OEM or Mr. Cool?

Gline

Member I
Coolant has been slowly disappearing on my Universal M40, with no sign of a leak. After a few days of searching for a leak and research on the forums, I've decided I must have a leak in the heat exchanger (slowly leaking coolant into the raw water). I'd have the heat exchanger repaired here locally, but I don't trust any local repair shops (Honolulu is a crap shot for reliability). So it's time to buy a new one online.

I have the 3 inch HE and new part number is 299835. Westerbeke OEM $733.80 (OUCH). After a simple Google search I also find a HE from Mr. Cool for $335. Does anyone have experience buying a HE from Mr. Cool? Is it worth the savings?

I'd also be open to buying from somewhere else if you know on any options.

Thnx!!

Mark
 

markvone

Sustaining Member
Mark,

I upgraded to the same HE, a Seakamp (a known brand) 3 inch, copper/nickel (good material for saltwater) HE from Mr. Cool when my 5424 started running hot in the 90 degree waters of the Chesapeake (after I brought it from the west coast). I did this in 2013. Here's the unit:

https://www.mrcool.us/299835cn-universal-westerbeke-medalist-heat-exchanger.html

I have not had a problem since and the HE quality is as good as the 2 inch OEM HE I replaced. Lot's of others here at EY.o have ordered this HE.
Check this thread more info and for the Seakamp website. Never heard if the HE was cheaper direct from Seakamp:

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?14240-Universal-25xp-heat-exchanger

FWIW, my Seakamp came grey primer color. You can get spray paint to match your engine if you are that far ahead of me on your project list. It will be easier to paint before you install if you're thinking that far ahead - I wasn't :(.

Mark
 
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Mark,

I have the 5424 engine. Years ago I upgraded the size to 3' diameter.
I bought it from Sen-Dure out of Florida.

They just made me a new one for $360...#523167.

Hilco
 

Gline

Member I
Thanks Mark!!! This is the exact HE I was looking at. Just ordered it. Good to see I can save $400 and get solid quality! Hopefully this solves my problem...

Didn't think about painting it, but also ordered some $30 Universal Bronze paint. You're right painting now would be easy. Would you tape off the entire area where the hoses attach to prevent any possible paint flaking into the system?
 
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markvone

Sustaining Member
Would you tape off the entire area where the hoses attach to prevent any possible paint flaking into the system?

Yeah, I'd probably tape off an inch on each hose nipple, just in case it didn't bond solidly to the grey paint, if I could have remembered to paint mine. At least mine is way on the back of the engine over the transmission.

Mark
 
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Gline

Member I
Follow up, I painted and installed the Mr. Cool HE back in March and have put about 40 hours on the engine. The coolant hasn't leaked at all and the engine temp stays exactly within specs. I'm very happy with it!

Also, the Mr. Cool HE came with plastic plugs on the openings, making prep for painting super easy.
 

RaymondS

Junior Member
MRCOOL.us - trying out for first time

Coolant has been slowly disappearing on my Universal M40, with no sign of a leak. After a few days of searching for a leak and research on the forums, I've decided I must have a leak in the heat exchanger (slowly leaking coolant into the raw water). I'd have the heat exchanger repaired here locally, but I don't trust any local repair shops (Honolulu is a crap shot for reliability). So it's time to buy a new one online.

I have the 3 inch HE and new part number is 299835. Westerbeke OEM $733.80 (OUCH). After a simple Google search I also find a HE from Mr. Cool for $335. Does anyone have experience buying a HE from Mr. Cool? Is it worth the savings?

I'd also be open to buying from somewhere else if you know on any options.

Thnx!!

Mark

I will let you know. Bought one
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]https://www.mrcool.us/299835-universal-westerbeke-medalist-heat-exchanger.html

Installing tomorrow - connecting pipes feel brittle.
This is to replace the original clogged 2" dia Hx with a larger one for a Universal 25 on an 84 Ericson 35-3

RaymondS[/FONT]
 
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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
The product in the vendor picture looks just like the HE on our former M25XP. One question tho: will there also be a need to change the stamped steel "saddle" that is bolted to the bell housing for the HE to rest on (actually be clamped to with hose clamps) ?
I recall that our HE OD matched the curve of the support piece. Our '88 engine did have the 3 inch OD exchanger.
 

markvone

Sustaining Member
My new Mrcool 3 inch HE fit right on the saddle of my 5424 where the 2 inch was with no issues. My saddle is flat with a lip.

Mark
 

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RaymondS

Junior Member
The product in the vendor picture looks just like the HE on our former M25XP. One question tho: will there also be a need to change the stamped steel "saddle" that is bolted to the bell housing for the HE to rest on (actually be clamped to with hose clamps) ?
I recall that our HE OD matched the curve of the support piece. Our '88 engine did have the 3 inch OD exchanger.

I did order two 3" clams that fit around the Hx.

Not clear yet if they will bolt on engine and replace saddle for 2". Will find out later today.
Next Q. MRCOOL said that "Note: … and radiator caps required to make them ready for installation" would be included. They were not included.
Is the pressure in the system gong to be higher. I see that a 16' pressure cap (as opposed to a 14' per spec) is on the pictures at Jttp://realitycheck.me/gallery/universal_m25/

Raymond
 

markvone

Sustaining Member
I didn't do anything to my radiator cap when I changed to the 3 inch HE. There's no connection between the HE and coolant pressure, it won't raise the pressure. I'd run the spec cap and ignore the note.

Mark
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I believe that If the heat exchanger and the water heater and all its hoses are lower than the coolant tank, it should bleed through the open tank cap.

Just add coolant as the system burps itself. Worked for me.
 

dxulander

Member I
I believe that If the heat exchanger and the water heater and all its hoses are lower than the coolant tank, it should bleed through the open tank cap.

Just add coolant as the system burps itself. Worked for me.
Was the answer I was hoping for, which is the "easier" way of doing things.

I guess trying to separate what "must be bled" i.e. fuel line, v.s. what doesn't i.e. engine oil, coolant, transmission fluid.
 
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