Oil at rear of raw water pump, corrosion

[Geoff W.]

Prairie Schooner, I glad you caught that “Bondo Comment.
This is an easy fix fix for JB Weld. Put the stud in to mold around, degrease the area. Put a lump of JB on; slide the pump into position to press the surface of the gooo flat; wait ; finally, gasket and gasket sealer, and, it should be fine for a very long time.
Those pumps are simple to rebuild. Wear inside the pump from abrasion can be a deciding factor.

Hey, site never told me I had these posts so I'm just seeing this.

I'm not super familiar with how JB weld works - would this not glue in the stud / the pump?

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Hey, site never told me I had these posts so I'm just seeing this.

I'm not super familiar with how JB weld works - would this not glue in the stud / the pump?

Hi Geoff,
JB is a two-part epoxy with filler, some metallic, and formulated to take some heat. If you coat the threads of the stud with mold release (thin wax or petroleum jelly) you will be able to back it out. It would be better if you used a smooth new stud or at least really wire brush any crud and rust off the old one. Also, put some wax/release on the mating surface of the pump. Very thin. JB might be fine. It's a relatively inexpensive consumer product so I'm not sure how robust it is for the heat of an engine. If I were doing that repair I would look into an industrial grade product like the Cotronics epoxy that Grant mentioned. There should be accurate specs listed on the manufacturers' websites. At a certain point heat will begin to soften or degrade some epoxies so you want to be sure what you use is designed for the extremes. 'They' have been doing amazing things with adhesive tech in recent decades.
Cheers, Jeff

 

[Pete the Cat]

Hi Geoff,
JB is a two-part epoxy with filler, some metallic, and formulated to take some heat. If you coat the threads of the stud with mold release (thin wax or petroleum jelly) you will be able to back it out. It would be better if you used a smooth new stud or at least really wire brush any crud and rust off the old one. Also, put some wax/release on the mating surface of the pump. Very thin. JB might be fine. It's a relatively inexpensive consumer product so I'm not sure how robust it is for the heat of an engine. If I were doing that repair I would look into an industrial grade product like the Cotronics epoxy that Grant mentioned. There should be accurate specs listed on the manufacturers' websites. At a certain point heat will begin to soften or degrade some epoxies so you want to be sure what you use is designed for the extremes. 'They' have been doing amazing things with adhesive tech in recent decades.
Cheers, Jeff

At a well stocked auto parts store they will have multiple types of JB Weld with different heat and chemical capabilities. Although I think the heat in this situation would not be a huge problem for the product, I would probably pay a couple bucks extra for the higher heat version. I second Jeff's advice on the rest of this. Any paste wax will do for mold wax.