Orcas in Erie

[Cshamis]

Most probably NOT that time we were backing up and the boat stopped hard.

nah.. obvs Orcas.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

That's a two-emoji post. Shocked face. Laughing face.
Is that a lead fin or fiberglass with lead filler? Looks like it's had some repair before.

 

[Cshamis]

Boats will hit stuff. I can laugh it off and fix it. —-or I can cuss and fume and … fix it anyway —- or both. lol!

—but srsly, does anybody know how to fix this?

 

[Cshamis]

That's a two-emoji post. Shocked face. Laughing face.
Is that a lead fin or fiberglass with lead filler? Looks like it's had some repair before.

Jeff, It’s an Ericson 33 RH #12 circa 1982. But… I don’t rightly know the fin construction.
I’ve only had the boat 26 days.

 

[Loren Beach]

Should be a cast lead external bolted-on fin.
That bit of damage looks kinda like lead with some fiberglass fairing over it. Perhaps? I would just grind the fuzzy part down and see what might be needed to fair it back with some epoxy. I wish we could all be there to offer hands-on commentary and to help to fix the divot.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

I agree w Loren, structure looks like a cast lead keel. Also looks like you weren't the first to ding that corner. Kinda glopped on repair. Make sure the lead is cleaned off very well just before covering in epoxy primer.

 

[Drewm3i]

LOL--these keels are robust and are not a joke like many other boat brands. You're good to repair and go backing into rocks again

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Boats will hit stuff. I can laugh it off and fix it. —-or I can cuss and fume and … fix it anyway —- or both. lol!

—but srsly, does anybody know how to fix this?

Cshamis,

Our boat came with a banged-up keel thanks to various misadventures by the PO. I don't know if my repairs were the best way, but after four seasons in the water they look good and feel solid. The first round of work was done in the spring of 2022.

Lead needs to be coated with epoxy primer for anything to stick. For that you need to get rid of any old repairs and paint, down to bare metal. It's best to use non-power methods like scraping, chisels, filing. This keeps any lead particles bigger and less likely to fly around. If sanding (which reduces the particles to dust), be sure you have very good vacuum. Check for local ordinances and yard requirements for this type of work. Whatever way you do it, wear good PPE. Afterward dispose of all clothing appropriately. Also lay drop cloth under the work area to catch any stray particles. Maybe even build a tent or wind break. It's bad stuff.



Lead begins oxidizing as soon as the fresh surface is revealed and the epoxy sources I read said this could inhibit adhesion. There are various methods discussed for dealing with this. I applied the epoxy to a small area with a brush, then immediately scrubbed the painted area with a disposable steel wire brush, then applied more epoxy. The theory is that the wire brush exposes raw metal which never gets exposed to the air.

For the dings in the trailing edge of the keel, I epoxied triangles of G-10, then added thickened epoxy. For the ding in the leading edge of the keel I layered on glass fiber with filled epoxy. These were sanded out, epoxy primed and painted with bottom paint.



In spring 2024 I took the entire bottom down to bare gelcoat and metal. On the keel I again did the wire brush and prime technique, followed by fairing compound, barrier coat, and bottom paint. Two seasons after that project all my repairs are still solid and looking good.




~ I was initially confused about your boat's keel construction because your profile still listed that pretty E23. Anyway, hope this helps.

Good luck,
Jeff

 

[Captain Pete]

Cshamis,

Our boat came with a banged-up keel thanks to various misadventures by the PO. I don't know if my repairs were the best way, but after four seasons in the water they look good and feel solid. The first round of work was done in the spring of 2022.

Lead needs to be coated with epoxy primer for anything to stick. For that you need to get rid of any old repairs and paint, down to bare metal. It's best to use non-power methods like scraping, chisels, filing. This keeps any lead particles bigger and less likely to fly around. If sanding (which reduces the particles to dust), be sure you have very good vacuum. Check for local ordinances and yard requirements for this type of work. Whatever way you do it, wear good PPE. Afterward dispose of all clothing appropriately. Also lay drop cloth under the work area to catch any stray particles. Maybe even build a tent or wind break. It's bad stuff.

View attachment 54012
View attachment 54013
Lead begins oxidizing as soon as the fresh surface is revealed and the epoxy sources I read said this could inhibit adhesion. There are various methods discussed for dealing with this. I applied the epoxy to a small area with a brush, then immediately scrubbed the painted area with a disposable steel wire brush, then applied more epoxy. The theory is that the wire brush exposes raw metal which never gets exposed to the air.

For the dings in the trailing edge of the keel, I epoxied triangles of G-10, then added thickened epoxy. For the ding in the leading edge of the keel I layered on glass fiber with filled epoxy. These were sanded out, epoxy primed and painted with bottom paint.


View attachment 54015
In spring 2024 I took the entire bottom down to bare gelcoat and metal. On the keel I again did the wire brush and prime technique, followed by fairing compound, barrier coat, and bottom paint. Two seasons after that project all my repairs are still solid and looking good.

View attachment 54016


~ I was initially confused about your boat's keel construction because your profile still listed that pretty E23. Anyway, hope this helps.

Good luck,
Jeff

Jeff, Really nice work. What do you think caused those dings? Especially on the trailing edge?

My 32-3 had dings on the leading edge, which I first thought might have been caused by anchor chain wrap as one of the prior owners apparently anchored a lot. But upon further investigation it seems they came from challenges getting the keel onto the cross bar of the haul out truck trailer - a good trailer set up and operator is key to avoiding hitting that when riding the boat up onto the trailer. The better operators seem to have x-ray vision to see the location of the (small chord) keel bottom to land it on the cross bar, not hitting it in the process.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Jeff, Really nice work. What do you think caused those dings? Especially on the trailing edge?

My 32-3 had dings on the leading edge, which I first thought might have been caused by anchor chain wrap as one of the prior owners apparently anchored a lot. But upon further investigation it seems they came from challenges getting the keel onto the cross bar of the haul out truck trailer - a good trailer set up and operator is key to avoiding hitting that when riding the boat up onto the trailer. The better operators seem to have x-ray vision to see the location of the (small chord) keel bottom to land it on the cross bar, not hitting it in the process.

The previous owners used to get a long term mooring on Nantucket and use the boat as a summer cottage. They told us the keel damage was from the mooring chain wrapping around it while unattended.
I watch the crew hauling, moving boats, and putting them on stands. It scares the willies out of me.

 

[Cshamis]

Cshamis,

Our boat came with a banged-up keel thanks to various misadventures by the PO. I don't know if my repairs were the best way, but after four seasons in the water they look good and feel solid. The first round of work was done in the spring of 2022.

Lead needs to be coated with epoxy primer for anything to stick. For that you need to get rid of any old repairs and paint, down to bare metal. It's best to use non-power methods like scraping, chisels, filing. This keeps any lead particles bigger and less likely to fly around. If sanding (which reduces the particles to dust), be sure you have very good vacuum. Check for local ordinances and yard requirements for this type of work. Whatever way you do it, wear good PPE. Afterward dispose of all clothing appropriately. Also lay drop cloth under the work area to catch any stray particles. Maybe even build a tent or wind break. It's bad stuff.

View attachment 54012
View attachment 54013
Lead begins oxidizing as soon as the fresh surface is revealed and the epoxy sources I read said this could inhibit adhesion. There are various methods discussed for dealing with this. I applied the epoxy to a small area with a brush, then immediately scrubbed the painted area with a disposable steel wire brush, then applied more epoxy. The theory is that the wire brush exposes raw metal which never gets exposed to the air.

For the dings in the trailing edge of the keel, I epoxied triangles of G-10, then added thickened epoxy. For the ding in the leading edge of the keel I layered on glass fiber with filled epoxy. These were sanded out, epoxy primed and painted with bottom paint.


View attachment 54015
In spring 2024 I took the entire bottom down to bare gelcoat and metal. On the keel I again did the wire brush and prime technique, followed by fairing compound, barrier coat, and bottom paint. Two seasons after that project all my repairs are still solid and looking good.

View attachment 54016


~ I was initially confused about your boat's keel construction because your profile still listed that pretty E23. Anyway, hope this helps.

Good luck,
Jeff

We still have her! She just got a new big sister.

Yes the nibble on the fin keel is only the size of 50¢ piece. I don’t think it got into the lead.