Out There Revival (E35-3)

[Out There]

New to me 1987 E35-3 undergoes a return from questionable history.
I will hopefully be doing this boat a service and giving myself more enjoyment than pain in the process.

 

[Out There]

Step 1: Drying in the cabin
Today I started Installing new portlights as they were leaking though the locking mechanism and no longer the supported design. I got a great deal from Mauripro on new #1's. I was able to replace 2 portlights today but wasted a lot of time with a seized bolt on the fist one. I will be returning tomorrow with a Dremel cutting wheel. I am using 3M 4000 uv and it looks like the PO used something like 4200 so it is not a battle.
The 7th portlight at the back of the quarter birth seemed in good enough condition to postpone replacement.

 

[Out There]

I did find it easier to set the port lights from inside the cabin rather than doing it from the outside so I could see where it was going. Learning curve i assume

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Rebedding/replacing portlights is sorta like running aground. If you haven't, you probably will. Good you're getting it out if the way early. It was dramatic how a dry cabin changed our relationship with the boat.
Does your quarter berth have one or two portlights? Our '86 has just the one at the feet.

 

[Loren Beach]

I did find it easier to set the port lights from inside the cabin rather than doing it from the outside so I could see where it was going. Learning curve i assume

When positioning them again, take some careful measurements and check the alignment carefully. Our '88 boat had some subtle variances in horizontal placement. Only maybe an eighth, but then again, the human eye can spot this. I had noticed it over the years. In 2021 we upgraded to the current Lewmar opening ports, "Atlantic" model. Much (!) improved latching mechanism. No more leaks around the (old design) turn levers. Our '88 previous Lewmar versions were crazed, the gaskets were flat, and this far down the road really did not owe us a thing, anyway.
Best of Luck on your work. As a friend on mine used to say: "a dry boat is a happy boat" .... and another friend/surveyor sez: "no good comes of water inside a boat!"

 

[Out There]

Rebedding/replacing portlights is sorta like running aground. If you haven't, you probably will. Good you're getting it out if the way early. It was dramatic how a dry cabin changed our relationship with the boat.
Does your quarter berth have one or two portlights? Our '86 has just the one at the feet.

I do have one at the foot of the quarter berth but I don't see any leaks there so it moved lower on the list

 

[peaman]

If you've had leaks, you've probably had wood damage too. While the port lights are out, and the opening prepared, mix some epoxy and coat the exposed edge of the paneling to seal it. With that, water has less opportunity to wick into the wood.

 

[Out There]

6 portlights replaced with 1 tube of 4000uv, the Dremel with a cutting wheel was the real hero of the day.
On to the size 60 hatches...

 

[Nick J]

Nice work. If you haven't already purchased the hatches, make sure you get the ones without the flange. The 35-3 hatches sit flush with the opening, so the flange would get in the way. I found a great deal on a set that had the flange and I had to cut it off. It wasn't too difficult, but it's definitely a step to avoid if you can.

 

[Out There]

I just got one off Ebay for $575. They said it was new with no damage. fingers crossed

Any advise on restoring the companionway hatch?

 

[Prairie Schooner]

I just got one off Ebay for $575. They said it was new with no damage. fingers crossed

Any advise on restoring the companionway hatch?

What's amiss with the companionway hatch?

 

[Out There]

What's amiss with the companionway hatch?

It needs some love in general but the acrylic has a good bit of crazing, think that would buff out?

 

[Nick J]

The flat hatch bard(s) are a simple replacement, but the curved sliding acrylic hatch is a little more complicated. You could replace the original with a flat piece, but it may leave a gap between the cover and the top of the sliding piece. You may also have to replace the teak trim pieces if they have the curve cut into them. There's a few members who have successfully had their sliding hatch replicated by a local plastic shop.

Post a pic of your hatch, and I'm sure someone will be able to offer advice on the best course of action. Ours is on my todo list. We're just living with a crazed hatch for now.

 

[Out There]

I'll try to remember to get some pics this weekend since I only get to visit her when I'm not working for her.
I think the companionway hatch is lower priority but it would be nice to figure out better weather proofing there. Maybe a canvas cover would be a better idea than spending a bunch of time getting replacement acrylic

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Ultraman,
You may find the biggest chore of working on the companionway hatch is getting it off. In the course of replacing fuel tanks or travelers many of us have removed the hatches. Even on different 35-3s there seems to be variability in how the system is assembled. Some folks were able to remove the slider without removing the sea hood. We were not.

E35-3 replacing fuel tank

Jeff, Also. I think that you can separate the tape from the tank without cutting it. Use a putty knife or chisel and the bond will release. This would make reinstall even easier and no worries about cutting liner. Hi David, Did you need to remove your sea hood (which for me includes the...

ericsonyachts.org

In this thread Christian details working on his sea hood and includes several other links:

Ericson Sea Hood, Maintenance and Removal

The Ericson sea hood covers the hatch over the companionway when the hatch is open. Such a hood is the easiest way to prevent water from entering the forward end of a sliding hatch, and to protect it from feet, lines and other abuse when open. The hood is made of plywood sandwiched between...

ericsonyachts.org

Elsewhere he has discussed making (or having made) a new curved acrylic panel for his slider, but I don't recall where. Acrylic will bend with heat. It's a common technique for manipulating the material.

I'm thinking that crazing is not just a surface condition that can be buffed out. Our hatch plastic is in relatively good condition. I suspect this is because the PO had a dodger rigged most of the time. The two big forward hatches were toast and we had them rebuilt by HatchMasters in Norwalk, CT.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

I found it: HEAT FORMING

E381 - Thelonious II -- Main Hatch Heat Forming, Vetus Cowls

There have been several good hatch lens replacement reports lately. Rick R. takes on Lewmar Rollstop hatches here. I found this video adds a bit to the critical procedure of finishing the visible seam where the acrylic joins the frame. My older...

ericsonyachts.org

Plus:

35-3 traveler/ sea hood challenges

Seems to be the season to correct issues with low profile Harken tracks installed on Ericson’s. Late in the season during rough sea down wind sailing we noticed the sea hood pulling up on the port side every time the main pumped. Seeing the port corner of the hood cracked, we ended the sail...

ericsonyachts.org

E35II Companionway Hatch Rebuild

Well....now that the V-Berth and Cabin Hatch are finished :) It's time to start the Companionway Hatch rebuild. Has anyone completed this project :confused: Sure would like some pics. Happy Hatches :egrin: :egrin:

ericsonyachts.org

 

[Out There]

I couldn't stand to sit at the marina and work on the boat on such a beautiful day.

 

[Out There]

Got the front hatch mostly installed today, only 3 of the old mounting points (holes) matched up to the new frame so I'm glad I had some thixo. Waiting for epoxy setup to add last 3 screws.

 

[Out There]

getting pictures today I dropped my phone and it went under the engine. That was an unfun recovery process.

Can I assume that this is the Kubota serial number?

PXL_20250920_172708718.jpg

drive.google.com

Please identify this item that sits athwartship behind the engine... muffler? Center lower half of photo, silver cylinder

PXL_20250920_172926772.jpg

drive.google.com

Is the large gauge painted gold wire the one I should disconnect to avoid fire hazard (ammeter)?

PXL_20250920_173348678.jpg

drive.google.com

 

[Kenneth K]

Please identify this item that sits athwartship behind the engine... muffler? Center lower half of photo, silver cylinder

That's the (raw-water to engine-coolant) heat exchanger.

Is the large gauge painted gold wire the one I should disconnect to avoid fire hazard (ammeter)?

If that's an original Motorola 50A alternator, then yes. Scrape off the gold paint and the wire should be orange underneath. You can verify if this wire still runs to your ammeter.


Remove this wire and bridge an even larger wire (I think I used 4ga) between the alternator output post and the large starter post.

This way, the alternator charges whichever battery(s) are selected on the OFF/1/Both/2 battery switch.

Some people prefer to run this charging wire directly to the house battery bank, which then dummy-proofs it from burning up the alternator regulator if the BATT switch is placed to OFF while the engine is running. If you do this, you then need to decide how to charge the other battery bank(s). I.e., the ALL position of the BATT sw, Automatic Charging Relay, Combiner, or DC-DC charger.