Out There Revival (E35-3)

Out There

1987 E35-3 on Lake Erie
So I have this tube to aid in oil changes but I dont know how to access where I assume there is a ball valve on the bottom. This is my first inboard so I am learning by doing with your help.

 

Out There

1987 E35-3 on Lake Erie
So from reading another post it looks like there is likely a banjo fitting so I just need to attach my extraction pump
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
So from reading another post it looks like there is likely a banjo fitting so I just need to attach my extraction pump
That banjo fitting probably has (about) a two foot piece of small hose clamped to it. That short hose was led up to a tie off point beside the engine on our '88 boat. The prior owner had thoughtfully put a cork in the top of the hose to keep bugs out. :)
For about 20 years I would take the cork out, push the extractor tube down to the banjo fitting and then pump the oil out -easily- with the vacuum pump. Worked well. I did have to replace the washer on the banjo fitting once, and blogged about it here.
 

Sidnewport

Member II
So I have this tube to aid in oil changes but I dont know how to access where I assume there is a ball valve on the bottom. This is my first inboard so I am learning by doing with your help.

My system looks like yours... Nice picture. The issue is that the end of that hose has a fitting capped by a 1/8 NPT plug. If you remove the plug, you will see that the hole is very small, and you cannot put pump-out hose in there, so you have to connect the pump directly to the fitting. Others have suggested a hose barb to connect to the hose on the pump. My vacuum pump has a hard plastic 3/8 inch hose, and I will be getting a "quick-connect" adapter to attach it. I am learning along with you, but I think this should work.
Loren Beach mentioned that their boat had just a plug on the end of the hose, and they could push a pump hose in there. That appears to be a PO's modification.
 

nukey99

Member III
We had that hose on our E35-3's M30 engine. I made sure to keep it well above the top of the engine to prevent accidental draining of lubricant. I removed the old oil with a west marine oil suction system, and removed it via the dipstick. Pretty quick and easy.
 

Out There

1987 E35-3 on Lake Erie
pulled out for Winter today, finding some challenges with the water heater, really old anode rod that wont come aloose
 

peaman

Sustaining Member
pulled out for Winter today, finding some challenges with the water heater, really old anode rod that wont come aloose
In case you find no luck with that anode, a few of us here have replaced our original water heaters with new from Isotherm. My original had a rusty outer casing and the water was foul smelling. Replaced with Isotherm with stainless steel tank, rigid foam insulation and hard plastic outer shell. Temperature-regulating outlet valve and combination pressure relief/drain valve included.
 

Out There

1987 E35-3 on Lake Erie

Out There

1987 E35-3 on Lake Erie
Question about the water heater function: Running the engine heats the water in the water heater that I am guessing is a separate heat exchanger from the main raw water to coolant heat exchanger. If so, what drives the circulation of the water through this secondary heat exchanger if such a thing exists? Is the fresh water heated by exhaust gas or a liquid heat exchanger. I have not seen where the fresh water system crosses any engine heat source.
 

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
Question about the water heater function: Running the engine heats the water in the water heater that I am guessing is a separate heat exchanger from the main raw water to coolant heat exchanger. If so, what drives the circulation of the water through this secondary heat exchanger if such a thing exists? Is the fresh water heated by exhaust gas or a liquid heat exchanger. I have not seen where the fresh water system crosses any engine heat source.
What engine do you have in your boat?
 

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
Question about the water heater function: Running the engine heats the water in the water heater that I am guessing is a separate heat exchanger from the main raw water to coolant heat exchanger. If so, what drives the circulation of the water through this secondary heat exchanger if such a thing exists? Is the fresh water heated by exhaust gas or a liquid heat exchanger. I have not seen where the fresh water system crosses any engine heat source.

About a year ago I got real chummy with the coolant and exhaust system on our 35-3 and received a lot of good advice along the way. I'll hazard a few answers.

separate heat exchanger? yes, that's basically what the water heater is
shown in the diagram in post #53
also a good diagram w/ flow directions in post #91
tested in post #104

a single coolant circuit exchanges with both raw water and domestic water and is driven by the coolant pump
shown in the second half of the video linked in post #161
and at about the 0:40 mark in the video linked in post #170

On our M25 the coolant pump hangs out on the front of the engine.
2 Ericson 35-3 xgn 01a old sm CP.jpg
photo before rebuild
 

peaman

Sustaining Member
Question about the water heater function: Running the engine heats the water in the water heater that I am guessing is a separate heat exchanger from the main raw water to coolant heat exchanger. If so, what drives the circulation of the water through this secondary heat exchanger if such a thing exists? Is the fresh water heated by exhaust gas or a liquid heat exchanger. I have not seen where the fresh water system crosses any engine heat source.
Be careful not to confuse the "fresh water" in the engine cooling circuit (which usually is mixed with coolant), versus the "house water" system which serves your head and galley sinks. The engine is fitted with a heat exchanger which uses raw sea water to cool the engine "fresh water" coolant circuit. The water heater usually has an internal coil which uses the engine coolant "fresh water" to heat the "house water". Check your hot water heater to see that it has four plumbing connections: house water in, house water out, engine coolant water in, engine coolant water out.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Good points. I always try to think of the engine cooling as the "engine closed coolant loop" system. Rather ponderous term, but differentiates it from the potable water system we have for drinking/washing.
Our former M25XP had a pair of hoses that took off from the top area by the thermostat housing and were routed to the hot water tank heating coil connections. The newer Betamarine has a similar hose hookup.

For over a decade we have had the "Heatercraft" cabin fan-driven heater unit plumbed in series with that hose run. i.e. from engine compartment to hot water tank and from there to the heater, and then returning to the engine. I have insulated some of these hoses, also where I could get at them easily.

This does add a few minutes to fully warm up the engine from a cold start. The good news is that these small diesels have a LOT of waste heat to give up. Running at approximately 2500 rpm for cruising speed, we can run the heater fan on any speed and never see a fall-off in engine temp. Of course we never run the blower fan above the lowest speed or we'd get darn-near driven out of the cabin by the heat... :)
 

JP in Sandusky

E38 on Lake Erie
About a year ago I got real chummy with the coolant and exhaust system on our 35-3 and received a lot of good advice along the way. I'll hazard a few answers.
Thanks for assembling this answer. This is helping me understand some of the pictures I took before I our recently purchased 38 to bed for the winter. (It doesn't help that some of the photos are oriented "upside-down" and close-up.)
 

Out There

1987 E35-3 on Lake Erie
not much luck with the water heater so I just dumped about 8 gallons of pink stuff in the tank and ran it through, hopefully all turns out well.
 

Prairie Schooner

Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
not much luck with the water heater so I just dumped about 8 gallons of pink stuff in the tank and ran it through, hopefully all turns out well.
Sorry if I didn't read far enough back, but I'm unclear what you're trying to accomplish. The anode change? And do you mean pink coolant or winter antifreeze or something else?
 

Out There

1987 E35-3 on Lake Erie
Sorry if I didn't read far enough back, but I'm unclear what you're trying to accomplish. The anode change? And do you mean pink coolant or winter antifreeze or something else?
I was unable to get the anode removed or be confident that all the clear water was cycled through the water heater so I added a bunch of the pink anti-freeze (Suitable for potable water plumbing)
 

Out There

1987 E35-3 on Lake Erie
Next boat buck:
I currently have a Raymarine wheel pilot on a Seatalkng network where the backbone is in the lazarette. All other instrumentation are pre-network capable so I would like to extend the seatalk network and also be compatible with nmea 2000 devices as I replace other instruments in the future.
I am thinking of getting a nmea 2000 4 way backbone to connect with an adapter and put it closer to the nav table or behind the instruments that are next to the companionway. I am also playing with a Pi4 running openplotter I would like to network it with the boat to talk to the GPS and wheel pilot
Is that a good way to expand the network since it looks like I can go from nmea 2000 to USB for signalk pretty easily if not inexpensive
Since I am starting at a pretty basic network I'll take advice on best ways to expand without being too proprietary/inflexible, looking at a couple SH radios that will want nmea 2000
 
Top