Painting my stern

[Eric Gordon]

My boat is at the Shipyard being bottom-painted (see photos) and some other minor work.

Tomorrow, I plan to do some DIY work which would be difficult on the water, specifically removing the old boat name and location (what’s left of it) and prepaing for painting….I may even try and paint one coat if I can.

Questions:

1. What can I used to remove the sticky glue from the old boat name? (without damaging/removing existing paint? I was going to use laquer thinner.

2. What’s best to fill the small screw holes which were filled in by the PO long ago, but seem like I could fill with some kind of epoxy/resin?

I was going to use a dremel to rough up the crazing/cracks, then also fill with epoxy/resin. (Probably some West Marine stuff.

What are your thoughts?

Eric

 

[David Vaughn]

We used a heat gun to soften old letters and then Goof-Off to get the remaining glue off. Applied with those blue dish scrubber pads, cleaned it pretty easily without scratching paint.

For the holes, thickened epoxy will work great. Prepare the surface using a countersink drill bit to bevel the top of the hole just a bit so the epoxy has more surface to grip. Clean with acetone. Then clean again. With any epoxy work preparation is the key.

For the cracks, Dremel is a good choice. Grind down far enough to be sure the cracks are just cosmetic and not something deeper. Clean well then fill with thickened epoxy.

Good luck.

 

[Christian Williams]

I removed the boarding ladder, which isn't really necessary (tape works). My painter used Awlgrip, but I think Interlux Brightside is a good choice for transoms not in the water, and that's what I'd use if doing it myself. Forgiving to apply and looks very pro.

 

[Kenneth K]

The problem with thickened epoxy for filling holes is that if you need to sand off any un-evenness from the fill, the epoxy will be harder to sand than the surrounding gelcoat. For deep fills, maybe use thickened epoxy for most of the depth, but use fairing compound to fill the last 1/4," to level it to the gelcoat. Fairing compound will sand easily. For shallow fills, just use fairing compound.

 

[Eric Gordon]

Perfect...Thanks David.

The problem with thickened epoxy for filling holes is that if you need to sand off any un-evenness from the fill, the epoxy will be harder to sand than the surrounding gelcoat. For deep fills, maybe use thickened epoxy for most of the depth, but use fairing compound to fill the last 1/4," to level it to the gelcoat. Fairing compound will sand easily. For shallow fills, just use fairing compound.

I see. Thank you.

I removed the boarding ladder, which isn't really necessary (tape works). My painter used Awlgrip, but I think Interlux Brightside is a good choice for transoms not in the water, and that's what I'd use if doing it myself. Forgiving to apply and looks very pro.

Thanks Christian. Yes, I’ve read you extolling the virtues of Interlux and that’s exactly what I am going to use.

 

[Prairie Schooner]

Eric,

We purchased our boat from the original owner and the name paint had been on for over 35 years. It had protected the underlying gelcoat while the rest had undergone decades of oxidation and erosion. As a result, where the lettering had been there was a plateau of original gelcoat that was as much as .010" proud of the surrounding surface. It took a little wet-sanding with a block and some fine grit to make it all smooth. You may encounter something similar.

Also, I notice some rust around your swim ladder mounts. This might be a really good time to take that off, over-drill and pot those holes, and put in new stainless screws. Masking with tape would certainly work, but you'd get a smoother brush stroke without the hardware in the way. Some of the most dreaded words in boat ownership are "While you're in there . . ." You could counter my suggestion with, "If it works, don't fix it." and I won't be at all offended.

Cheers,
Jeff

 

[JSM]

I think Interlux Brightside is a good choice for transoms not in the water, and that's what I'd use if doing it myself. Forgiving to apply and looks very pro.

Interlux has discontinued both Brightside as well as it's two part product Perfection and has introduced a new product called Toplac.
I painted our transom this spring and used Pettit Ez Poxy.
Ez Poxy can be used as either a one or two part product by adding their Performance Enhancer. I used the two part and am extremely happy with the results.

Pettit | EZ-Poxy Performance Enhancer

 

[Eric Gordon]

Eric,

We purchased our boat from the original owner and the name paint had been on for over 35 years. It had protected the underlying gelcoat while the rest had undergone decades of oxidation and erosion. As a result, where the lettering had been there was a plateau of original gelcoat that was as much as .010" proud of the surrounding surface. It took a little wet-sanding with a block and some fine grit to make it all smooth. You may encounter something similar.

Also, I notice some rust around your swim ladder mounts. This might be a really good time to take that off, over-drill and pot those holes, and put in new stainless screws. Masking with tape would certainly work, but you'd get a smoother brush stroke without the hardware in the way. Some of the most dreaded words in boat ownership are "While you're in there . . ." You could counter my suggestion with, "If it works, don't fix it." and I won't be at all offended.

Cheers,
Jeff

Actually, I was thinking about that.

As it turns out the Shipyard has so many requirements for DIY work, and I only had today, so I have to put this off until I can plan better and save up a little $$$ for another haul-out to do these things which are difficult on the water…plus Dana Point has moved me to a new slip and they’ve gotten strict about what we can do there. Thank goodness there are still shipyards which allow DIY.

But I digress. I think I should plan for a weekend of prep and paint at my shipyard…hopefully before the weather cools.

Thanks.

 

[Eric Gordon]

Interlux has discontinued both Brightside as well as it's two part product Perfection and has introduced a new product called Toplac.
I painted our transom this spring and used Pettit Ez Poxy.
Ez Poxy can be used as either a one or two part product by adding their Performance Enhancer. I used the two part and am extremely happy with the results.

Pettit | EZ-Poxy Performance Enhancer

Interestingly, the West Marine website defaults to EZPoxy when you type in Interlux Brightside! If I can find some though, I’m tempted to use it on the interior after having seen Christian’s use of it.

 

[Christian Williams]

That explains why Brightside was hard to find when I painted our baby grand piano, a big job that came out remarkably well (and I know of no other piano painted with boat paint).

I figure the Toplac is just as good, and uses the same Pre-Kote primer. Haven't used it, but plan to.

International Toplac boat paint review: 5-year test results show how it lasts

In 2017 Richard Hare painted his Golden Hind 31 with International Toplac single pot boat paint. 5 years later we find out how well it's performed

www.pbo.co.uk

Interlux Brightside on a Piano

I faced refinishing, or at least improving, our 1900 baby grand piano. It cost $1000 35 years ago, and for ten years was hit by sunlight through a window. The finish was flaked away, the flat surfaces bubbled and worn. Yeah, little kids, too distracted to notice, and no better place at the time...

ericsonyachts.org

 

[Eric Gordon]

That piano!

Oh, and it looks like Interlux Toplac Plus is the replacement for Brightside.

 

[Captain Pete]

I have had good luck removing boat name decals and related residue on painted hulls using this:

https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Remover-Graphics-diameter-threaded/dp/B00063VT0G/ref=asc_df_B00063VT0G/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693274643898&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16838871037622389779&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018341&hvtargid=pla-451421021261&mcid=5460fc4b3b6f3624aade1207f72966c0&th=1

I was a bit scared at first, but it caused no damage.

 

[gabriel]

That explains why Brightside was hard to find when I painted our baby grand piano, a big job that came out remarkably well (and I know of no other piano painted with boat paint).

I figure the Toplac is just as good, and uses the same Pre-Kote primer. Haven't used it, but plan to.

International Toplac boat paint review: 5-year test results show how it lasts

In 2017 Richard Hare painted his Golden Hind 31 with International Toplac single pot boat paint. 5 years later we find out how well it's performed

www.pbo.co.uk

Interlux Brightside on a Piano

I faced refinishing, or at least improving, our 1900 baby grand piano. It cost $1000 35 years ago, and for ten years was hit by sunlight through a window. The finish was flaked away, the flat surfaces bubbled and worn. Yeah, little kids, too distracted to notice, and no better place at the time...

ericsonyachts.org

Out of curiosity, why did you paint a piano?? did it change the sound?

 

[Drewm3i]

I have had good luck removing boat name decals and related residue on painted hulls using this:

https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Remover-Graphics-diameter-threaded/dp/B00063VT0G/ref=asc_df_B00063VT0G/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693274643898&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16838871037622389779&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018341&hvtargid=pla-451421021261&mcid=5460fc4b3b6f3624aade1207f72966c0&th=1

I was a bit scared at first, but it caused no damage.

This is the way ^

X2

 

[Christian Williams]

why did you paint a piano?? did it change the sound?

The finish on a piano, unlike a violin, has no effect on the sound. It's either shellac or lacquer or varnish, none of which can be restored when badly damaged. Most pianos, even if beat up, are still relatively smooth once sanded or stripped, which allows high gloss paint to succeed. No polishing or buffing with these one-part polyeurethanes, which is definitely cheating.

 

[gabriel]

why did you paint a piano?? did it change the sound?

The finish on a piano, unlike a violin, has no effect on the sound. It's either shellac or lacquer or varnish, none of which can be restored when badly damaged. Most pianos, even if beat up, are still relatively smooth once sanded or stripped, which allows high gloss paint to succeed. No polishing or buffing with these one-part polyeurethanes, which is definitely cheating.

They say the Stradivarii sounded unique because old Antonio mixed in his own blood into the varnish

Do you happen to play piano?