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Paper gasket for starter motor - M-25


E32-3 / San Francisco
Okay, okay.. okay ;)

I appreciate all the feedback here esp. the repeated suggestion to follow https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/universal-diesel-wiring-modifications-how-to.12178/ I followed parts A, C, and B, in that order. It wasn't until I finished connecting the thicker orange wire between the actuator contact on the starter solenoid and the start switch that I saw a difference. Now I can't get the click to come back. Time will tell, but at least pulling the starter and having it rebuilt can go to the bottom of the list.

I still wore my Zen hat, but maybe a little sideways. As I dug around testing, reading, and learning more, like a starter solenoid is not just an engagement mechanism for the pinion gear with the flywheel. It also acts as a relay for power to the motor that turns the pinion gear. Here's some other notes:
  • solenoid on my engine draws 6.1A when it engages properly to turn the engine over; 21.2A (yikes) when the 'click' happens and doesn't turn the engine over
  • holding the decompression lever open didn't help at all, but the engine sounds pretty funny with no "chugga-chug" sound
  • once I jumped the alternator output to the starter post I noticed charging amps went from ~4.5A to ~7.5A. I'll eventually upgrade to a higher output Balmar
  • I like not having to hit the glow plugs every time I start the engine
  • I feel better having that old ammeter out of the picture
Now I can continue planning my instrument panel rewiring project. I've been eyeballing blog posts by Ken and Christian. It all starts with a diagram or two. Btw, if you need to make a drawing, check out www.diagrams.net (it's free!)
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