Pour or Tap threads into epoxy??


Live free or die hard
I drilled a 3/16 hole in fresh epoxy that has set but is still somewhat rubbery and then drove a 1/4” machine screw that “tapped” the epoxy since it was still flexible.

I was amazed at how much I was able to tighten it down with an impact driver. The base of the stanchion easily squeezed out the extra butyl underneath.


Member II
I am looking at a similar problem with the replacement and rebedding of my E25 handrails.

Some of the bedded-in nuts came out, leaving a void to be cleaned up and potted.

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While others held.

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I have been struggling with how to solve the problem, because I am not sure what is between the cabin top and the inner shell. Only the bolts on the ends of the hand rails go through.

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Has anyone out there drilled through the cabin top to thru-bolt the hand rails on an E25 (or other model with the same construction)?
I rebed my cabin top teak handrails last year on my E25. The rails had studs, probably 1/4-20 mounted solidly in the feet. Some of the holes in the top were just that size, others were a good bit bigger. The inner ceiling and balsa are a larger hole. The studs/rails were held in place by a thickish stainless washer, lock washer, and nut. A plastic hole cover pops into the hole in the inner ceiling to finish it off. I used bed-it butyl on the studs and feet of the rails. Worked very well. I can get a picture in a day or two. No idea if this is how it left the factory in '78 or was a PO creation.


Live free or die hard
Mine were thru bolted except the first two feet starting at the bow on both port and starboard, those were screws. I potted and thru bolted everything as the screws were to weak to bring to properly rail feet to the cabin top for a seal. They are solid as a rock now, no movement.