Pour or Tap threads into epoxy??

gabriel

Live free or die hard
I drilled a 3/16 hole in fresh epoxy that has set but is still somewhat rubbery and then drove a 1/4” machine screw that “tapped” the epoxy since it was still flexible.

I was amazed at how much I was able to tighten it down with an impact driver. The base of the stanchion easily squeezed out the extra butyl underneath.
 

klb67pgh

Member II
I am looking at a similar problem with the replacement and rebedding of my E25 handrails.

Some of the bedded-in nuts came out, leaving a void to be cleaned up and potted.


View attachment 42828

While others held.


View attachment 42829

I have been struggling with how to solve the problem, because I am not sure what is between the cabin top and the inner shell. Only the bolts on the ends of the hand rails go through.

View attachment 42831

Has anyone out there drilled through the cabin top to thru-bolt the hand rails on an E25 (or other model with the same construction)?
I rebed my cabin top teak handrails last year on my E25. The rails had studs, probably 1/4-20 mounted solidly in the feet. Some of the holes in the top were just that size, others were a good bit bigger. The inner ceiling and balsa are a larger hole. The studs/rails were held in place by a thickish stainless washer, lock washer, and nut. A plastic hole cover pops into the hole in the inner ceiling to finish it off. I used bed-it butyl on the studs and feet of the rails. Worked very well. I can get a picture in a day or two. No idea if this is how it left the factory in '78 or was a PO creation.
 

gabriel

Live free or die hard
Mine were thru bolted except the first two feet starting at the bow on both port and starboard, those were screws. I potted and thru bolted everything as the screws were to weak to bring to properly rail feet to the cabin top for a seal. They are solid as a rock now, no movement.

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