Question about E30+ mast/spinnaker setup

Hope I can get some insight from one of you about the purpose of a forward-facing sheave on the mast - 4 feet or so below the sheaves for the spinnaker and jib halyard exits.

My boat is setup for a spinnaker (although I haven't yet used it) and one of the POs had done some enhancements to a few things - new Harken traveler, boom kicker, etc.. Currently there is nothing running through the sheave. The pole ring for the spin pole is on a track and just above the track there is a block with a line that I have always assumed was the pole uphaul. From the original documentation, it doesn't seem like this boat uses a downhaul (wondering if people have experience with that).

The question is - what is the purpose of the unused sheave? Was that the original setup for the pole uphaul? If I use it that way and run the line through the mast, I can more easily bring the uphaul back to the cockpit which seems desirable given I am often solo or shorthanded. While the mast is down for the winter, I'm thinking about running a messenger line down until I can figure it out.

Thanks in advance for the advice.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Not sure of how far below, but our stock Kenyon mast has the pole-lift sheave located about where you reference.
Next, down near/above the gooseneck is an exit plate/opening for that line, and the line then leads down to a turning block at mast base and thence back to a housetop winch and clutch stopper.
 

woolamaloo

Member III
Here are a few pictures I found showing how my 30+ is set up. My pole lift sheave is just above the top spreader. In this picture, the line is run to the pulpit. I keep it there at dock to prevent mast slapping.toppingliftsheave.jpg
On my foredeck, there's a block mounted just aft of the anchor locker for the downhaul. You can also see one of the fairleads for the downhaul that leads the line back to a cam cleat in the cockpit.
downhaulblockandfairlead.jpg
There's no attachment point on the pole for the downhaul so I just loop it around the pole.downhaultopole.jpg
One of my winter projects is to replace the old vinyl covered wire rope that's on the pole with dyneema. When I do, I'm also going to create an attachment bridle for the downhaul. But the way it's been has worked fine.

Hope all this applies to your setup.
 
Very helpful. Very applicable. I have the same project in mind for replacing the wire lines on the pole as well. I can't tell from the picture how you have the downhaul attached to the pole. Is it a loop on line or some other connection? One of the POs has done some other modifications. Traveller is in the cockpit at the entry to the companionway. Boom kicker has been added. Reefing lines run back to the cockpit. Still trying to sort out which lines are going to come back where on the cabin top.
 

woolamaloo

Member III
Very helpful. Very applicable. I have the same project in mind for replacing the wire lines on the pole as well. I can't tell from the picture how you have the downhaul attached to the pole. Is it a loop on line or some other connection? One of the POs has done some other modifications. Traveller is in the cockpit at the entry to the companionway. Boom kicker has been added. Reefing lines run back to the cockpit. Still trying to sort out which lines are going to come back where on the cabin top.
The pole downhaul has a shackle on it even though there’s no place on the pole to connect it. For now, I just shackle it to the line after looping it around the pole. Of course, when I make the new bridles, I’ll have a ring on the underside bridle to attach it.

Check out the last picture in my previous post. You can see my Garhauer traveler on my cabin top. It was installed by the PO and I love it. I added a Garhauer rigid boom vang several years ago. On the port side, you can see the bright yellow jackline. Right outside of it on the aft edge of the cabin top, you can see the cam cleat that holds the spinnaker pole downhaul. There’s another fairlead between that cam cleat and the fairlead on the foredeck. (I couldn’t find a better picture of that.)

All the other lines are led back to the cockpit with these clutches I installed in 2017.

Port:

port-clutches.jpg

Starboard:

starboard-clutches.jpg

Hope that helps.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Moderator
Blogs Author
Great-looking Garhauer traveler, which maintains the original radius and connects neatly to the Ericson pylons. Not sure I'd ever seen one installed before. Much better to my eye than the other replacement options.

(For the record, I remain quite happy with my upgrades to the original Ronstan gear)..
 
The pole downhaul has a shackle on it even though there’s no place on the pole to connect it. For now, I just shackle it to the line after looping it around the pole. Of course, when I make the new bridles, I’ll have a ring on the underside bridle to attach it.

Check out the last picture in my previous post. You can see my Garhauer traveler on my cabin top. It was installed by the PO and I love it. I added a Garhauer rigid boom vang several years ago. On the port side, you can see the bright yellow jackline. Right outside of it on the aft edge of the cabin top, you can see the cam cleat that holds the spinnaker pole downhaul. There’s another fairlead between that cam cleat and the fairlead on the foredeck. (I couldn’t find a better picture of that.)

All the other lines are led back to the cockpit with these clutches I installed in 2017.

Port:

View attachment 36285

Starboard:

View attachment 36286

Hope that helps.
This is very helpful. wonder if you have a picture of the deck hardware between the mast and the port side clutches. Interested in how you get the two reefing lines to one side.

Currently, I have appropriate turning blocks and clutches for 3 lines on port and 3 on starboard. Don't need a topping lift - it was disconnected by PO after rigid vang was installed. Currently have the jib halyard at the mast as I only use it a couple times a season with the roller furling and it is easier to manage solo from there.

today i have: port - spin halyard, outhaul, reef #1; starboard - main halyard, vang, reef #2

Any new clutches I install will have to be on port given the space available.

Thinking about the following: port - outhaul, vang, 3 spinnaker lines; starboard - main halyard, reefs #1,#2. Doing this is going to require at 2 more clutches and redoing some of the fairleads/deck organizers. Trying to minimize the disruption to the existing holes and need to make sure I am using the existing mast line exit holes.


BTW - po had replaced original traveller with Harken - pretty happy with arrangement except for it blocking the companionway but I do have all the lines within reach when single-handed.
 

G Kiba

Member III
The block above the track may have been for raise the mast end of the pole to "dip pole" gyb the kite. More common on larger boats but I have3 seen them on 30+'s in the past.
 

woolamaloo

Member III
This is very helpful. wonder if you have a picture of the deck hardware between the mast and the port side clutches. Interested in how you get the two reefing lines to one side.
I don’t have a great picture but this one should give you the idea. On starboard is the topping lift and the main halyard. And very close to the mast on the starboard side, you can see a blue line with a block mostly hidden - that’s the first reef line. When it’s under pressure, it goes pretty cleanly - chafe free- to the port deck organizer. Right now, it’s laying across the other lines so it doesn’t look good. Of course, about half the time I need to put in a reef, that block is twisted and I have to go clear it; there’s a lot going on up there. But, I always go to the mast to secure the reef tack anyway so it’s never caused me problems.

The other detail this picture shows is the other downhaul fairleads on port.
linesatmast.jpg
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Moderator
Blogs Author
Any way to move the block for red line down to the mast collar so it's not pulling up on the deck organizer? Looks like there might be a hole available....
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Jim, that non-skid and deck looks too nice to be original factory gel coat.... did you refinish it?
 
I don’t have a great picture but this one should give you the idea. On starboard is the topping lift and the main halyard. And very close to the mast on the starboard side, you can see a blue line with a block mostly hidden - that’s the first reef line. When it’s under pressure, it goes pretty cleanly - chafe free- to the port deck organizer. Right now, it’s laying across the other lines so it doesn’t look good. Of course, about half the time I need to put in a reef, that block is twisted and I have to go clear it; there’s a lot going on up there. But, I always go to the mast to secure the reef tack anyway so it’s never caused me problems.

The other detail this picture shows is the other downhaul fairleads on port.
View attachment 36288
Thanks so much for posting this. Very helpful. Gives me a number of ideas to improve the situation.
 

woolamaloo

Member III
Jim, that non-skid and deck looks too nice to be original factory gel coat.... did you refinish it?
Loren,
Thanks. That is the factory gel-coat. I'm only the second owner of the boat and I've had it eight seasons. Unlike most, I have very few previous owner complaints. That picture was taken the day of a washing so that helped too.
 

woolamaloo

Member III
Any way to move the block for red line down to the mast collar so it's not pulling up on the deck organizer? Looks like there might be a hole available....
Christian,
I moved it higher because I needed the lower position when I installed the rigid boom vang. I always thought it was okay - until I studied this picture this afternoon. You're right. I don't like the angle it's pulling on the deck organizer. I just realized that I've had the rigid vang for four seasons - and I've probably tried three different configurations through the organizer. I think I could probably move the Genoa and Spinnaker halyard blocks forward on the mast plate and make room for the red reef line block down there. In the Spring, I'll try configuration #4.
Thanks for pointing it out.
 

Seth

Sustaining Partner
Hope I can get some insight from one of you about the purpose of a forward-facing sheave on the mast - 4 feet or so below the sheaves for the spinnaker and jib halyard exits.

My boat is setup for a spinnaker (although I haven't yet used it) and one of the POs had done some enhancements to a few things - new Harken traveler, boom kicker, etc.. Currently there is nothing running through the sheave. The pole ring for the spin pole is on a track and just above the track there is a block with a line that I have always assumed was the pole uphaul. From the original documentation, it doesn't seem like this boat uses a downhaul (wondering if people have experience with that).

The question is - what is the purpose of the unused sheave? Was that the original setup for the pole uphaul? If I use it that way and run the line through the mast, I can more easily bring the uphaul back to the cockpit which seems desirable given I am often solo or shorthanded. While the mast is down for the winter, I'm thinking about running a messenger line down until I can figure it out.

Thanks in advance for the advice.
The sheave you are looking at IS for the pole uphaul (topping lift). I don't know how the track for the spin pole is set up, but none of the blocks there would be for the pole uphaul. That must be much higher up the mast. You might have a spinnaker pole car that can be moved up and down on the track with blocks top and bottom. Maybe post a pic of the block you are looking at, but the pole uphaul is and always has been and must be around the height you describe. BTW, you can always use a spare halyard for a pole uphaul in a pinch
 
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