Reefing Line Leads

[Loren Beach]

I am pretty sure that we have an older thread around here somewhere discussing ways of leading the clew reef lines. Can't find it offhand...

I did just run across a nice video on-line showing how to set up the line to put the correct (approx) 45 degree pull on that reef line that we all have going into a sheave at the rear of the boom.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbXlEsrlo1s&feature=related

The method illustrated is actually a little bit different than the one we adopted for our own boats about 20 years ago.
Our reef line runs through the cringle like in the video, but then is led down and under the boom and then to a short bowline around itself. Works pretty well so far.

Loren

 

[Seth]

That's how to do it!

This video really shows the right way to do it-no blocks or tracks on the boom to make things difficult, and a perfect lead everytime. I don't know anyone who does the safety line, but it isn't a bad idea-I am just not convinced it is necessary (also, Lorens method is essentially the same idea and is also fine).
Thanks for posting this!

S

 

[Loren Beach]

Our Reefing setup

I was checking out our clew reef today and had to slightly re-lead the line to get it right. Some things are done best at the dock, with no wind!

I took some photos to try and show how it's led. Note that it's slacked off a bit in one photo to better show how the line goes 'round the boom.
You will notice how this leaves the sail that's below the reef all slacked off to one side so that it's relatively easy to roll it up and tidy it with the reef point ties.

Note that if your main is held onto the boom with a boltrope or slugs, you will need to have your sailmaker put in a reinforced slit just above the boom, in line with your reef line lead. I did this on our prior boat when we changed over to this style of mainsaild reefing, BTW.

Hope this helps visualize the concept a little bit.

Loren

 

[bigd14]

I’m in the process of getting a new mainsail and along with that optimizing the reefing lines. I see in Lorens photos above that the bowline on the bitter end of the line is looped around the standing end before it runs through the reef cringle such that the angle is improved upon tensioning. But now the line runs through itself which appears to introduce chafe and friction as the reef line is tensioned. Is this a problem and would it be solved by a low friction ring in lieu of the bowline? Loren are you still using this arrangement? My current setup has the line running through the cringle and down to the boom where it is simply wrapped around and back to itself. So there is no additional friction when the reef line is tensioned but the angle seems to be shallower than may be desired.

 

[jtsai]

Here is a different approach.

 

[bigd14]

Here is a different approach.

View attachment 48846

Yes, that is how I have it now. It works OK, but I get some sail bunched up underneath due to the lazy cradle and I am not sure if the sail is being pulled down to the boom enough. The boom droops alot when reefed, especially the second reef where it jams on the dodger, but this may be due to the sail being ancient and bagged out, or maybe the reef points weren't installed correctly. Loren's method of attaching the bowline to the part of the reefing line ahead seems like it would help get the cringle tightened down to the boom better.

 

[Loren Beach]

I have not (yet) tied in the reef line for our recent new main, but I may keep the same scheme. Or... not.

Actually, the factory setup with the T track on the side of the boom is not really a bad idea, either. Lots of boat builders do it that way. Simple to use -- the reef line is dead ended at the sliding eye on the track, goes up thru the cringle and then back to the sheave. This does not pull the cringe down to the top of the boom... but mariners cross oceans in all weathers with this system. The heavy reinforcing lets the sail hold together fine either way.
i.e. I may have over-thought my original line lead.
Further admission: when cranking in a reef in big air with a flogging main, my "system" induces friction where the line passes thru the loop.

My Flimsy Excuse: back when I was racing a lot we reefed a main maybe twice in 20 years..... when you race you always set sail area for max power in the lulls and feather the main thru the puffs. Everyday sailing reverses the priority of sail area adjustment...!
YMMV however.


Edit: the referenced video seems to be removed from any access, after all these years.

 

[Christian Williams]

I use the bowline described in Post #5. The bowline needs to be fairly compact, so as to allow the clew to draw close to the boom.

There is no chafe at the bowline, which when set, doesn't move. There is always chafe at the cringle, but resizing the bowline can move the chafe point around and it's only significant if reefed for days at a time.

My boom lifts a few inches when reefed, such that the topping lift may need to be tightened. If the boom droops, sail may be worn out.

 

[southofvictor]

Ditto, I use the method @jtsai shows but I’ve run the line through the original track fittings too, just for shits and giggles. The track fittings don’t line up well with the third reef point though so when that’s rigged it’s just around the boom.

 

[bigd14]

If the boom droops, sail may be worn out.

This sail has apparently been in service since 1993 according to the paperwork that accompanied the boat! It’s beyond worn out.

 

[G Kiba]

Post #5 requires a loose footed main. Or a hole in the sail?

 

[Kenneth K]

I'm still happy with my single-line reef setup. I bet it's no more friction than pulling a line 90 degrees through a bowline loop would be.

 

[Christian Williams]

Post #5 requires a loose footed main

I think it was Guy Stevens who said the system works fine on a mainsail foot with slugs. I don't see why it wouldn't. You'd just have to pick the right place between the slugs to attach the bowline.

 

[Mr. Scarlett]

Post #5 requires a loose footed main

I think it was Guy Stevens who said the system works fine on a mainsail foot with slugs. I don't see why it wouldn't. You'd just have to pick the right place between the slugs to attach the bowline.

The main my previous boat was not loose footed but the reef setup is the same.
I also double wrap the line around the boom before the bowline.