I went with that 6 cu ft number and purchased an Isotherm unit which has been very satisfactory since purchased less that 2 years ago. Compressor is installed just outboard of the trash bin here:Can anyone make a brand and model for refrigeration on an E32-3 (1987)? Brochure says the ice box is 6 cu. ft.

I checked their web site out and I do like the fan with vent hose attachment built iii but....for the life of me I can't find any specs on ice box sizes, like 4cu ft, 6 cu ft, etc. How do you know what to purchase?We have a Sea Frost BD system that works quite well on the 35-3. Compressor is under the starboard saloon settee, temperature control panel on the galley wall, and cooling plate in the larger aft ice box. (The smaller fore icebox is either used for dry goods storage, or filled with ice if lots of drinks are to be had.) It's wired directly to the battery, with an in-line fuse. Thought it died last summer, but all I had to do was replace a circuit board and it's been humming along good as new ever since (knock wood). Sea Frost BD
The Isotherm 2012 Compact Classic model you linked to looks like a good one. From the photo (on the linked page) it looks like it has a fitting for and exhaust or fresh air hose on one end. Did you connect that to anything like on of the cowl vents that come out of the taffrail on the stern?I went with that 6 cu ft number and purchased an Isotherm unit which has been very satisfactory since purchased less that 2 years ago. Compressor is installed just outboard of the trash bin here:
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Not going to be of much help there, sorry, as it's the system that came with the boat when we purchased it. It's the basic BD system that feeds one cooling plate in the ice box. It has the Electronic Thermostat/Thermometer with Speed Control, but no additional cooling plates, ice makers, etc. Keeps the standard Ericson ice box plenty cold.I checked their web site out and I do like the fan with vent hose attachment built iii but....for the life of me I can't find any specs on ice box sizes, like 4cu ft, 6 cu ft, etc. How do you know what to purchase?
According to the original E32-3 sales brochures our box is 6 cu ft. I forgot to mention that one of the main reasons for replacing the current Adler-Barbour refrigeration is to get rid of the “freezer box” evaporator which takes up a considerable amount of room at the box opening and is very restrictive when getting things in and out of the box along with items rolling under the evaporator and disappearing from view. We never freeze anything, including ice cubes so I want to go with a much thinner “cold plate” system that appears to be much more efficient. Isotherm makes one that’s rated for 5.3 cu ft and I’m thinking that’s close enough to 6 cu ft to do the job.You need to know what your cubic footage is. I measured our box interior - it is sort of like two "boxes" with the upper part being wider than the lower part. Added up the cubic inches for each box-shaped part and used that total for shopping for a refrigeration kit. Fact is that our ice box is smaller than most similar Ericson's, but it's so nice to have refrigeration "just like at home" that we live with the sizing just fine.
FWIW, losing a little interior room to a small evaporator plate or mini freezer box gave us back a lot of useful room that used to be unavailable when loading in 40# of block ice. I do not miss the mess of melt water in the bottom, either!
If your chosen system builder does not plainly state the interior CF their product is spec'd out for, just ask them. Do be prepared for them to ask you about how much/thick your box insulation is, since that is more important than the interior size.
(A super-well insulated ice box is actually your first line of defense against the dreaded curse of "warm beer".... ! )
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The control point of 1 or 2 is a set point or target temperature, not a capacity controller. Ideally, you should be able to use that same controller with a bigger unit or a smaller unit and as long as the capacity is adequate, you still would not need to change the set point from 1 or 2 as long as you do not have an undersized unit. If a unit has enough capacity to reach the set point temperature, then the only difference between more or less capacity will be in recovery time. That is how long it takes the box to cool down to set point from a warm start or from adding warm contents. Also, ideally, a bigger or smaller unit should not make much difference in battery usage: a smaller unit will use less current when running, but will need to run longer, and the opposite for a larger unit. To your question, a smaller unit may be less cost to install, and it will likely cool adequately most of the time. But it will take longer to reach set point from a warm start and it may fail to meet the demand under heavy usage, whether warmer outdoor temperatures, more frequent access, or introduction of warm contents. So it depends very much on your own usage profile and expectations.I don’t think I EVER turned the control past 1 or 2 and I’m wondering if I could get away with a slightly (smaller) cheaper unit, say a 2010 which is rated for like 4.4 cubic feet?