Refrigeration on an E32-3

Bolo

Contributing Partner
Can anyone make a brand and model for refrigeration on an E32-3 (1987)? Brochure says the ice box is 6 cu. ft.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
We have a master thread on the topic. Posting there would be good.

 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
Are you asking about the old factory installed system, or about modern replacement options?
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Considering that the bulk numbers of EY boats (including the Olson's) were constructed before 1992, my guess is that many have had their OEM refrigeration systems replaced by now. Maybe more than once.

Our boat did not have any optional 12 volt system in it when delivered, so I installed a "frigoboat" keel-cooled system back in the 90's. It worked great for a decade and then -over about a year - just died. It was cheaper to replace than to have repaired, again.

I installed a new Isotherm system with its own little fan and coil arrangement and it works great. Very thrifty on amp draw, too.

I just switched it on again for the coming season. 35.1 degree inside yesterday. Different question perhaps, but that little "sled" mounting piece for the Isotherm is really really handy when doing the install. We bought it from the Seattle dealer, and their customer support was excellent. https://www.suremarineservice.com/Galley/Isotherm-Ice-Box-Conversion-Kits/

(I did have the old hole in the hull for the former "keel cooler" glassed over, several years ago.)

My guess is that there are several good choices for this upgrade, and you will like whichever one you choose....
 

Mark F

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
I'm pretty sure the Isotherm unit I installed on Lotus Flower is a 2301 model. It works well in Santa Cruz CA on my 1976 E27 factory icebox. I did add some foam insulation to the top of the icebox (under the counter) it's not elegant but it works. The unit is installed on the aft side of the bulkhead behind the icebox in the port lazarette. The reason I added the refrigeration was to use up some of the solar power I was producing after I added a 320 watt solar Panel - and I like cold beer ;-). With the refrigeration up and running my batteries (8.4 kilowatts) are topped off and my Victron app tells me I'm making/using a few watts a day. Without the refrig, when I was away from the boat for a month at a time I would be getting float charge only (most days) out of my panels. Seemed like a waste of the available solar and a crime against beer...
 

peaman

Sustaining Member
Can anyone make a brand and model for refrigeration on an E32-3 (1987)? Brochure says the ice box is 6 cu. ft.
I went with that 6 cu ft number and purchased an Isotherm unit which has been very satisfactory since purchased less that 2 years ago. Compressor is installed just outboard of the trash bin here:
IMG_2336.JPG
 

bsangs

E35-3 - New Jersey
We have a Sea Frost BD system that works quite well on the 35-3. Compressor is under the starboard saloon settee, temperature control panel on the galley wall, and cooling plate in the larger aft ice box. (The smaller fore icebox is either used for dry goods storage, or filled with ice if lots of drinks are to be had.) It's wired directly to the battery, with an in-line fuse. Thought it died last summer, but all I had to do was replace a circuit board and it's been humming along good as new ever since (knock wood). Sea Frost BD
 
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Bolo

Contributing Partner
We have a Sea Frost BD system that works quite well on the 35-3. Compressor is under the starboard saloon settee, temperature control panel on the galley wall, and cooling plate in the larger aft ice box. (The smaller fore icebox is either used for dry goods storage, or filled with ice if lots of drinks are to be had.) It's wired directly to the battery, with an in-line fuse. Thought it died last summer, but all I had to do was replace a circuit board and it's been humming along good as new ever since (knock wood). Sea Frost BD
I checked their web site out and I do like the fan with vent hose attachment built iii but....for the life of me I can't find any specs on ice box sizes, like 4cu ft, 6 cu ft, etc. How do you know what to purchase?
 

Bolo

Contributing Partner
I went with that 6 cu ft number and purchased an Isotherm unit which has been very satisfactory since purchased less that 2 years ago. Compressor is installed just outboard of the trash bin here:
View attachment 46724
The Isotherm 2012 Compact Classic model you linked to looks like a good one. From the photo (on the linked page) it looks like it has a fitting for and exhaust or fresh air hose on one end. Did you connect that to anything like on of the cowl vents that come out of the taffrail on the stern?
 

bsangs

E35-3 - New Jersey
I checked their web site out and I do like the fan with vent hose attachment built iii but....for the life of me I can't find any specs on ice box sizes, like 4cu ft, 6 cu ft, etc. How do you know what to purchase?
Not going to be of much help there, sorry, as it's the system that came with the boat when we purchased it. It's the basic BD system that feeds one cooling plate in the ice box. It has the Electronic Thermostat/Thermometer with Speed Control, but no additional cooling plates, ice makers, etc. Keeps the standard Ericson ice box plenty cold.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Dometic "cold machine""

 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
You need to know what your cubic footage is. I measured our box interior - it is sort of like two "boxes" with the upper part being wider than the lower part. Added up the cubic inches for each box-shaped part and used that total for shopping for a refrigeration kit. Fact is that our ice box is smaller than most similar Ericson's, but it's so nice to have refrigeration "just like at home" that we live with the sizing just fine.
FWIW, losing a little interior room to a small evaporator plate or mini freezer box gave us back a lot of useful room that used to be unavailable when loading in 40# of block ice. I do not miss the mess of melt water in the bottom, either!
If your chosen system builder does not plainly state the interior CF their product is spec'd out for, just ask them. Do be prepared for them to ask you about how much/thick your box insulation is, since that is more important than the interior size.
(A super-well insulated ice box is actually your first line of defense against the dreaded curse of "warm beer".... ! )
:)
 

JSM

Sustaining Member
I installed a Norcold dual voltage kit rated for 6 cubic feet in the galley ice box of our 34-2 and was able to fit the compressor beneath it in the compartment that held the fold out trash bin. The unit has worked flawlessly for the last four years.
Launched the boat this past Friday, returned Saturday to slushy beer !

Edited to add: Just did a little looking and it appears that Norcold is out of the conversion kit biz, Westmarine and Defender are both out of stock on any manufacturers kit. Supply chain issues ???
 
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Bolo

Contributing Partner
You need to know what your cubic footage is. I measured our box interior - it is sort of like two "boxes" with the upper part being wider than the lower part. Added up the cubic inches for each box-shaped part and used that total for shopping for a refrigeration kit. Fact is that our ice box is smaller than most similar Ericson's, but it's so nice to have refrigeration "just like at home" that we live with the sizing just fine.
FWIW, losing a little interior room to a small evaporator plate or mini freezer box gave us back a lot of useful room that used to be unavailable when loading in 40# of block ice. I do not miss the mess of melt water in the bottom, either!
If your chosen system builder does not plainly state the interior CF their product is spec'd out for, just ask them. Do be prepared for them to ask you about how much/thick your box insulation is, since that is more important than the interior size.
(A super-well insulated ice box is actually your first line of defense against the dreaded curse of "warm beer".... ! )
:)
According to the original E32-3 sales brochures our box is 6 cu ft. I forgot to mention that one of the main reasons for replacing the current Adler-Barbour refrigeration is to get rid of the “freezer box” evaporator which takes up a considerable amount of room at the box opening and is very restrictive when getting things in and out of the box along with items rolling under the evaporator and disappearing from view. We never freeze anything, including ice cubes so I want to go with a much thinner “cold plate” system that appears to be much more efficient. Isotherm makes one that’s rated for 5.3 cu ft and I’m thinking that’s close enough to 6 cu ft to do the job.
 

Filkee

Sustaining Member
My 2012 has expired too soon but I’m trying to work past it. Pesky Freon leak that I have not been able to isolate and locally, nobody appears interested in working on a boat refrigerator even when It’s spread out on my ski tuning bench at home. Path of least resistance is to replace in kind, but when it was working properly I don’t think I EVER turned the control past 1 or 2 and I’m wondering if I could get away with a slightly (smaller) cheaper unit, say a 2010 which is rated for like 4.4 cubic feet?
 

peaman

Sustaining Member
I don’t think I EVER turned the control past 1 or 2 and I’m wondering if I could get away with a slightly (smaller) cheaper unit, say a 2010 which is rated for like 4.4 cubic feet?
The control point of 1 or 2 is a set point or target temperature, not a capacity controller. Ideally, you should be able to use that same controller with a bigger unit or a smaller unit and as long as the capacity is adequate, you still would not need to change the set point from 1 or 2 as long as you do not have an undersized unit. If a unit has enough capacity to reach the set point temperature, then the only difference between more or less capacity will be in recovery time. That is how long it takes the box to cool down to set point from a warm start or from adding warm contents. Also, ideally, a bigger or smaller unit should not make much difference in battery usage: a smaller unit will use less current when running, but will need to run longer, and the opposite for a larger unit. To your question, a smaller unit may be less cost to install, and it will likely cool adequately most of the time. But it will take longer to reach set point from a warm start and it may fail to meet the demand under heavy usage, whether warmer outdoor temperatures, more frequent access, or introduction of warm contents. So it depends very much on your own usage profile and expectations.
 
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