Replacement of Standing Rigging

[jgarmin098]

Has anyone had experience rplacing their standing rigging? If so, what issues did you run into and what was the cost? I'm getting quotes in the $2,400 range that do not use the original Navtec fittings.

Thanks in advance.

Jack Garmin
'88 E 32-3

 

[NateHanson]

I'd also like to know if it ends up being significantly cheaper to do it yourself with Norseman type swageless fittings. Who's got the best prices for a big order of those types of parts?

Nate

 

[Jeff Asbury]

I had my standing rigging replaced with all new turn buckles, new mast wiring, new mast head & steaming lights, repair spreader lights, mast and boom LP paint for around $2800.00 for my 1973 E-27.

I also had a set of stays made for my radar mast, still at the same price. I think I got a pretty good deal for all that. The only thing that wasn't replaced was the for stay because it was part of a newer Harken Furling system. I used a independent rigging contractor.

Not sure if this helps.

 

[Emerald]

Hi,


I just did all the standing rigging on my cutter rigged Independence 31. That means 15 stays total, all with turnbuckles on the end. I used open bodied chrome plated bronze turnbuckles instead of replacing the Navtec with Navtec. This was the recommendation from the rigger. I took the rigging to the rigger as a pile, with turnbuckle positions marked so they could make up new rigging pin to pin based on the old. So, I was not paying them to take down the mast or remove/replace the rigging from the boat. Total was about $800 less than what you are getting qouted, and I am going to guess with the cutter rig, bowsprit, staysail etc., I've probably got an extra 6 or 7 turnbuckles and associated wire and eyes on the other end in that amount. My headstay is 1/4 inch as are wiskers and bobstay. Other rigging is 7/32. Wire is 1x19 316 SS.


Depending on you carrying the rigging in or not, your quotes may be high or OK.


-David
Independence 31
Emerald

 

[wurzner]

I'd do it myself and use dyform wire with Haynes (not sure of the spelling) fittings. I looked into these just prior to buying my new boat so I decided not to do it. I was only planning on dowing my forestay, back stay, and two primaries and the cost of wire and fittings would have been around $1200. The dyform wire is stronger and lighter and the haynes fittings are swageless and very high quality. Add a cutting tool on a rotozip and the job would be a breeze to do.

shaun

 

[ligolaiva38]

1984 ERICSON 381
I just had my 1984 Ericson 381 mast and rigging redone in So CAL and it cost $5600.00. The mast was striped and sanded to bare metal, corrosion fixed, acid etched and aluminum preped. primed and repainted. Mast was then reassembled with all new fasteners, new sheaves, new rigging 316 ss 1x19 wire , and Alexander Roberts Swege fittings. Nevtec fittings would have added aprox. $800. more to the bill. Every rigger I got estimates from recomended not going with Navtec because of the extra cost. They claimed the quality was the same with other fittings and it was just the name I would be paying for. I added an orca LED trilight on top of the mast, a new deck light, new gam vhf antenna, and new antenna wire all purchased separately and installed when the rig was put back together.
Oh yes, another $200 for unstepping the mast and then $150 at another boat yard for stepping back the mast. Lastly, the mast was only dock tuned.
In short, it has been not been an easy and gratifying experience, but I don't want to get into the details.
Currently, I need some information from other Ericson 38 owners regarding the sizes of the standing rigging wire. I suspect that possibly my rigger did not replace all the rigging with the same size wires as were originally on the mast before it was dismatled.
THEREFORE, IF ANYONE HAS THE ORIGINAL WIRE DIMENSIONS (WIRE DIAMETERS) ON AN ERICSON 38 STANDING RIGGING PLEASE LET ME KNOW SO I CAN COMPARE MY NEW RIGGING TO WHAT ORIGINALLY WAS ON THE E-381.

John
Laiva E-38

 

[Loren Beach]

Rigging thoughts...

One factor to consider is that a good rigger (and at $5K he/she better be good) will do some load calculations to see what wire size is really appropriate. If you read The Riggers Apprentice by Brion Toss, somewhere in there he cautions against arbitrary "up sizing" rigging beyond what was standard, and first measuring and calculating out what it *should* be. You may well find that the proper wire size is + or - what you started with...

He makes you view the whole rigging "gang" from the mast section to the shrouds to pin sizes to chainplates to hull stresses and over to the base of the spar to complete the load circle.
So, it is certainly historically-nice to have the original wire size and alloy information, but it would also be wise to do the math to make sure that what you now have is what you need.
Hmmm, this reads too much like Zen Rigging, but I lack a more educated and polished way to explain it...

I just looked up the receipt for our rigging job in Aug '02. The total bill was $2922. This included a total 12-volt re-wire of the spar, new VHF ant./cable, and LED anchor light and Windex at the top, new combo steaming/foredeck light, machining 4 alum. sheaves to remove wire gouges and press in bronze bearings in each. R&R the SS halyard cage at top of spar for polishing. Labor and all parts of the standing rigging including turnbuckles was $1575. of the above total. (The forestay was newer and was the only wire not replaced.) The rig is double-spreader, continuous wire, with single in-line lowers.
You would have to adjust these numbers a tad for inflation, nowadays.

Best,
Loren

 

[ligolaiva38]

Loren,
Thanks for the information. Just the standing rigging estimate including sheaves was aprox. $3400 without repainting etc. the mast. Having basically the same style mast the standing rigging is very simular to yours.
Obviously you replaced with Navtec which is what my $3400. was.
My concern is that some of the wire is a smaller diameter. The back stay I know was a greater diameter and the turnbuckle was twice the size.
I was warned before hand that this guy cuts corners if you don't pay attention and now he has bought into a new company with lots of overhead and staff. The original company had a great reputation and was used by many big racers.
John Laiva E-38

 

[Loren Beach]

No Navtec here...

While I have heard of an Olson 34 with Navtec rod, ours was and is wire, with conventional open barrel turnbuckles. Our boat did not come with Navtec turnbuckles. As I recall, your E-38 has double lowers, as well.
That would be offset in my rigging gang by having my two original wire runner/checkstays replaced with hi-tech line. So the economics are perhaps somewhat comparable. Kinda sorta.

Just FYI,

Loren

 

[stbdtack]

I replaced all my wire rigging with rod. Saved a substantial amount by not using navtec turnbuckles.

The original E38 Standing rigging specs are in the archives I think.... If not I have a copy tucked away somewhere. I gives the wire size and lengths. The rod rigging sizes were based on the original wire sizes. The rod used was always a little above the strength of the wire.

Rod rigging will last longer since there is less chance of crevice corrosion. Smaller diameter so less windage aloft too.

 

[Chris Miller]

Original rig

Here's the stuff from the docs page...
cm

 

[ligolaiva38]

Thank you so very much Chris. This will be a true blessing for my situation. The Ericson list has been a life saver for me a number of times. Thanks to all those who work so hard to keep this list so valuable. Bless all your hearts!
John
Laiva E-381

 

[ted_reshetiloff]

I replaced all of the standing rigging last year on my 89' E 38. I upped the forestay or backstay cant recall which to match the other. I think forestay was 5/16 and backstay was smaller or vise versa. All others were per the specs listed above. I have a friend in the rigging business and paid 1500. I did not replace my turnbuckle barrels because they were fine but did do the threaded ends and loops that attach to the chainplates. I will do the barrels this summer most likely.

 

[jgarmin098]

Follow up. I had the rigger duplicate all the standing rigging using Hayn turnbuckles. Navtec was too expensive. Total cost $2,100. I saved a few hundred by removing and installing everything myself.

And the best part is, I have two new sails (cruising laminate) on order. Can't wait to get out there this season.

 

[sailingjk]

1977 Ericson 35 Standing Rigging

We live aboard our Ericson 35 in San Diego, CA. Sailing this past Sunday with friends a wire snapped on one of the lower shrouds. Needless to say, we were fortunate and did not have anything else break. We are in the process of replacing all standing rigging. Does anyone have a spec sheet for Ericson 35 standing rigging showing diameters, lengths, tensioning, etc.? I saw a spec sheet for an E-38 earlier in this thread, that's what I'd like to find.

 

[lbertran]

Check The Resources Tab on this Site

Then go to Downloads. There's a full spec sheet for standing rigging and another for running rigging for the 35-3. I just did a full standing rigging replacement this Winter. Good luck.

 

[bigd14]

I had Brion Toss go through my rig a couple weeks ago. The original specs for the e27 call for 3/16 wire for all standing rigging. Brion ran the numbers and reccomended 7/32 for uppers and forestay and 3/16 for the rest. He also recommended that all pins be upsized from 5/16 to 3/8. Curious to know what others have done when replacing their e27 rigging. Oh and I will probably order from rigrite. About $1400 swaged on top Hayne mechanicals on bottom except for the forestay (furler ).

Thanks!

 

[jamin]

I ordered the 4 lowers for our e29 from seco south here in the Tampa bay area for $300. They are 7/32 with turnbuckles. Im happy with what they put together for us. I just measured pin to pin and they set the turnbuckles 2/3 open.

 

[sailingjk]

Thanks for answers

Just a note of thanks to those who replied to my question regarding replacing the standing rigging on our Ericson 35, Free Spirit. We were able to locate a complete owner's manual plus all the specifications we needed. Even found 1x19 302/304 SS wire rope to do all standing rigging for $300.

sailingjk
Ericson 35
SGYC
San Diego, CA

 

[bigd14]

Question on rigging installation

I ordered all my standing rigging from www.riggingonly.com for my E27. Total cost was about $1160, with swaged uppers and Hayn Hi-Mod mechanical lowers. I am going to install this myself (with help from my neighbor and of course from the yard with lifting the mast into place). Before I talk to the yard, I want to have a plan in place.

Since I have new chainplates and spreaders, I will be measuring the new rigging on the fly. Has anyone else done this job? I am wondering about how to measure the wire to get the right length. I plan to open the turnbuckles to 1/3, measure the wire to the stop in the mechanical fitting, cut to length and install the fitting. Hopefully that will get me close.

Overall plan is thus (contingent upon not dropping any of the mechanical terminal parts in the water:

1. Install all turnbuckles and rear triangle to chainplates with mechanical fittings temporarily installed.
2. Have yard lift mast into place and hold steady while I work.
3. Install headstay/furler (the headstay is swaged top and bottom so this step will be quick)
4. Secure main halyard and topping lift aft to corners for additional support
4. Measure and mark uppers, cut to length, install fitting and connect to turnbuckle
6. Install lower aft shrouds
7. Install lower forward shrouds
8. Install backstay
9. Tighten rigging and stop the clock on the yard fees!

One of the challenges is that the mast is supposed to be raked aft ~6 inches. Should I try to have the travellift guy rake it slightly aft as I install the lower aft shrouds? I don't want them cut too long. Or should I not worry about it and adjust it once the rig is up? I foresee a challenge getting the mast properly upright using the travellift.

Any advice on this important step will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Doug