Replacing Lifelines

[fixntheboat]

I need to replace them, question are;
1- would it be crazy to use old standing rigging (dimensions aside) that looks good…and if so
2- where to find all the appropriate fittings… or
3- bite the bullet spend more $ , send away the old to have new made?

Sure one might say, Old rigging—>compromising safety, but I believe there is plenty of life left in these old cables.
Other like the idea of light weight dyneema.
Hoping for any ideas and / or directions , how to proceed and potential source to have made.
Not really wanting to compromise as all standing, rigging, running rigging, and deck hardware are being replaced with brand new equipment.. and all of this has less a horror of a hole in my wallet. I really have not researched. What new might cost me just thought I might reach out here for some answers as this community has been very helpful. Thank you again.
I look forward to input. I may receive in regards to this 1974 Erickson 32–2.

 

[Christian Williams]

I had a rigger do the job and it was relatively inexpensive. Uncoated stainless, all new turnbuckles and gate fittings.

It sounds like you're professionally replacing all the standing rigging--if so, this would be a small add-on and much better than Rube Goldberg.

You can do Spectra lifelines yourself without special tools, if you don't mind owning a boat with Spectra lifelines.

 

[bsangs]

I'm with Christian, if you're having all the standing rigging replaced anyway, might as well just fold in new lifelines.

Having said that, I replaced mine a few years ago and it was a very simple job. I measured the old ones, sent those dimensions to the rigging department of West Marine, they shipped me the new ones and I installed them without issue. Mine are uncoated stainless steel. Good luck.

 

[Slick470]

We removed ours and sent them to Rigging Only along with a self measurement form. They sent us new ones (and our old ones back) that we then installed. Super easy and less expensive than the quotes we got from West Marine and local riggers.

We upgraded to the newer style over-center pelican hooks and went with slightly larger uncoated wire to match the same overall dimensions of the wire + vinyl that was removed.

 

[jtsai]

I fabricated the lifelines on my last boat, a Sabre 28 with riggings from a friend's Vancouver 25. My friend replaced all the rigging for peace of mind when he went offshore with the family.

The most difficult part of the job is producing a nice-looking crimp using the handheld swage tool. It does not look as nice as one done by machine, but the result was sufficiently strong. I also reconfigured the setup a bit in order to recycle some of the hardware; they are not cheap.

I second others' comments that since you are having professional replacing all standing rigging, replacing lifelines will be a small add-on.

 

[fixntheboat]

We removed ours and sent them to Rigging Only along with a self measurement form. They sent us new ones (and our old ones back) that we then installed. Super easy and less expensive than the quotes we got from West Marine and local riggers.

We upgraded to the newer style over-center pelican hooks and went with slightly larger uncoated wire to match the same overall dimensions of the wire + vinyl that was removed.

Thank you everybody for all your info out there. I guess seeing that I’m doing it all I should follow through and do this right as well.
I’m gonna go with slick 470s advice, and look for the rigging only company
Hey, you slick 470 do you happen to have a link you could send me?
Thank you all again!

 

[peaman]

Three years ago, I paid $1400 for all new lifelines in 1x19 uncoated 316 stainless steel fabricated by a local rigger using my own measurements. Located in southeast CT.

 

[fixntheboat]

Three years ago, I paid $1400 for all new lifelines in 1x19 uncoated 316 stainless steel fabricated by a local rigger using my own measurements. Located in southeast CT.

Do you have double or single ? and I’m assuming that’s with one gate Port and starboard
Seems a little steep, but I have no idea

 

[Slick470]

Thank you everybody for all your info out there. I guess seeing that I’m doing it all I should follow through and do this right as well.
I’m gonna go with slick 470s advice, and look for the rigging only company
Hey, you slick 470 do you happen to have a link you could send me?
Thank you all again!

https://www.riggingonly.com/ is their website. Measurement form is here: https://www.riggingonly.com/life_line_measuring_guide.htm#LLMEASURE

It's been a few years now, but I sent them my measurements first and got a quote from them. You can do it without sending your old ones along, but I figured I'd spend a bit more shipping the old ones to them and make sure they would fit.

One note if you do go with the newer over center pelican hooks... they are much nicer to use but make sure they will connect to where they clip on your stanchions or pulpit. I had to do a minor modification to get it to work on our boat.

 

[peaman]

Do you have double or single ? and I’m assuming that’s with one gate Port and starboard
Seems a little steep, but I have no idea

Double except at the gates, one gate each side.

 

[Kenneth K]

https://www.riggingonly.com/ is their website. Measurement form is here: https://www.riggingonly.com/life_line_measuring_guide.htm#LLMEASURE

I re-did my 3/16 1x19 type 316 stainless lifelines with Rigging Only last year for $367.45 per side. I re-used the original closed-body turnbuckles and pelican hooks. After a few minutes on a buffer, the original hardware looked just like the new stuff.

 

[Slick470]

I re-did my 3/16 1x19 type 316 stainless lifelines with Rigging Only last year for $367.45 per side. I re-used the original closed-body turnbuckles and pelican hooks. After a few minutes on a buffer, the original hardware looked just like the new stuff.

I likely could have re-used the turnbuckles and pelican hooks. I wanted to upgrade the pelican hooks though. The ones on our boat were the "tubular" style and I wanted the newer style over center ones because they are easier to use. Spent a bit more on them, but very happy with the results.

 

[Mark F]

I replaced my lifelines with Dyneema, I like them . Fun project.

 

[Nick J]

I like the clean look of bare stainless, but I prefer Dyneema. As Mark said, it's a fun project. It feels better in hand to me and I like being able to repair it as needed with tools I have aboard.

 

[Christian Williams]

Lovely workmanship. Looking at the typical pulpit wire loops common to all boats, and in the Ericson case welded on xx years ago, I recall extending them with safety lines to the tubing itself. That was offshore worrywartism, but it is probably a good idea to inspect the attachment points anytime we are replacing lifelines.

 

[Mark F]

Hi Nick, Nice job on the lifelines. I really like your lashing finish! I ended up using the existing turnbuckles. I had seen Dyneema lifelines on another boat get loose over time so I maxed out the turnbuckles hoping I would have enough adjustment to make up for the splices setting. Turns out the lines have stayed bar tight to the point that its hard to close the pelican hooks.

 

[Slick470]

I strongly considered going with dyneema before deciding to go back to SS. I really liked the DIY aspect of it, but the primary reason to stick with SS for me was due to the racing rules around synthetic lifelines kept changing. I know that not everyone here races so this may not affect you, but if you do ever intend to race your boat, double check the rules in your area before changing them.

 

[Nick J]

Lovely workmanship. Looking at the typical pulpit wire loops common to all boats, and in the Ericson case welded on xx years ago, I recall extending them with safety lines to the tubing itself. That was offshore worrywartism, but it is probably a good idea to inspect the attachment points anytime we are replacing lifelines.

Christian,

Great point and I was concerned about this as well. I initially took it back through the actual pulpit in a figure eight, but I found the added friction made it really difficult to tension the lifelines. I figured if it's good enough for the stainless steel lines to be attached, it's good enough for synthetic.

Mark,

They do get loose, but almost all of that was due to construction. The actual dyneema fiber is very stable once everything is set. You just have to enjoy the lashing process. You can avoid most of the issue by pretensionIng between splicing and installing them on the boat.

 

[Mark F]

Yes, pretensioning is important I did it at the boat and used a winch. I've had no stretch so far, about a year. I sit on them to try to get a little play but nothing ;-) I do like the feel better.

 

[fixntheboat]

Great input, everyone,,dyneema photos look great, but thing I’ll go with ss, not much for more DIY as my plate is full with 1M things to do, if she might go to the water this year, fingers crossed I’ll get her done.. as of now there are no fittings on the deck so sending away the old is my option. Thanks for all your input out there. All great ideas. Much appreciate