Replacing original Hatch, need advice >>>

1911tex

Sustaining Member
Mauripro has a 40% off Lewmar hatches. My rear hatch measures 22+ x 22+ so looking at the specs it would be a size 60. Is it "Medium or Low Profile"? What does the replacement install require...how to remove the old and install the new? Advice? Thanks!
Actually it may be the "Ocean Size" hatch as my original has the double hinges, flat base or flange base ???

 
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1911tex

Sustaining Member
(See Post #1) Mauripro sent me the picture below illustrating the difference between flat base or flange base...I have not removed my old hatch...anyone know which is original for the Ericson's??? I don't know which to order, flanged or flat base.

Clones Portillos Lewmar a buen precio - La Taberna del Puerto
 

Chris Mc.

Member III
I’m thinking mine has the flanged base but don’t know for sure. I’m glad you posted this. My crazed hatches are on my to do list.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
(See Post #1) Mauripro sent me the picture below illustrating the difference between flat base or flange base...I have not removed my old hatch...anyone know which is original for the Ericson's??? I don't know which to order, flanged or flat base.

View attachment 38330
If you know you're going to do this change, it might be good to remove the inside trim bits and verify which type of hatch that you have.
 

trickdhat

Member III
Blogs Author
Tex,

Last year I replaced all of the lenses on my portholes. Covid put a huge stain on the supply chain for Lexan, so it took months to get the material and I ended up under ordering. When it was time to do the hatches, I found a pair of Lewmar Ocean 60s in great shape for $300. It was easier to buy the hatches than replace the lenses in my existing hatches with the difficulty I had buying material (I haven't actually installed them yet, so I guess this is yet to be verified). The only problem was they were flanged. I used a slotting bit in my router table combined with a jib I made to cut off the flange. They look good. Now I just have to install them.....


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Regarding the flanged vs non flanged, it looks like Ericson changed how they designed the hatch openings sometime in the mid 80s. My '84 has the opening incorporated in the mold so the outer skin of the deck rolls into the cabin leaving a nice smooth gelcoat. It looks great, just doesn't work with flanged hatches. Looking at other people pictures, it appears that Ericson changed to leaving the deck flat and cutting out the opening after it was laminated. I'm not sure if this exposed the core. The flange on the hatches in these later models cleaned up the opening.
 

1911tex

Sustaining Member
If you know you're going to do this change, it might be good to remove the inside trim bits and verify which type of hatch that you have.
Very good common sense question...I was almost in the process thereof this weekend...however, after our long drought, we have an ensuing wet weather report and didn't want to chance leaks onto our almost finished several coats of varnished new sole.... and the Lewmar hatch sale is only good for this week. Looks like flanged; however, never having ever removed a hatch, not knowing visibly flanged or flat from a hole in the ground....hoped someone could fill in the unanswered question before I order the wrong hatch. Of course, with time, I would much rather remove the old hatch first.

May just go ahead and order the size 60 flanged Ocean hatch, which as Trickdhat just posted #5, may be right or wrong for my '85 E35-3. Just going by memory, I think it does has an aluminum frame inside the hatch from underneath. Thanks
 

trickdhat

Member III
Blogs Author
I like the old hatches as well. The ratcheting mechanism that holds them open might actually be better than the friction / spring mechanism on the new ones. However, all the hardware on my hatches are crumbling away and it's hard to find replacements. Between the state of my hatches, the difficulty and expense with sourcing Lexan, and finding a pair I could aford, I decided replacing them was the better way to go. In hind sight, I still haven't replaced them yet, so I clearly had time to wait for the Lexan issue to sort itself out. On the positive side, I got a chance to practice sewing canvis while the hatches were at home. The can't won't be happy when I finally get these in the boat.
 

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1911tex

Sustaining Member
Tex,

this pic is from http://tkronaboat.com/interior-refinish.html. It's a 1985 Ericson 35-3. It looks like they replaced the original hatch with Lewmar ocean hatches and used the non flange flat hatch. My 1984 looks identical. If your boat looks like this, a flanged base will not fit without cutting it off.

View attachment 38337
Whoa...I am glad I did not place the order for flange...my hatch looks like this one. It is amazing the condition they started with and the end result! Their persistence paid off in spades...looks terrific. Thank you Trickdhat!!! I really appreciate your follow up!
 

trickdhat

Member III
Blogs Author
You got me, I was doing it on memory instead of looking it up. I ordered 1/2" smoked acrylic (2064). Thanks for the correction.
 

K2MSmith

Sustaining Member
I would like to restore my current hatches. It looks like in my case, I would need new lens, handles and maybe the hinges (which look corroded. I think the base that is in the cabin top is still good and I'd rather NOT replace those. Are the parts still available from somewhere ? - or do I have to find a shop that will make the lens from the acrylic ? I would still need to find handles and the mounting hardware.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Check out the kits at Select Plastics, they have most parts for old hatches. Any local plastics shop can reproduce the lenses if you bring the old ones to them. Some links to the project here:

 
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1911tex

Sustaining Member
Trickdhat: You are correct..."FLAT BASE" !
 

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trickdhat

Member III
Blogs Author
A full year later after purchasing the new hatches, I finally installed the hatches. Par for the course, I thought it would take a few hours, but it ended up taking 2 x 5 hour days. The big win for this project was drilling into the core and finding nothing but bone dry wood. I still over drilled and filled the holes to keep it that way. Getting rid of the oldy acrylic made a huge difference in the cabin light. The only remaining acrylic piece is the sliding hatch.

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