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Replacing Seacock Water Intake E27

Hawaii Sailor

E27, Kaneohe, Hawaii
tempImage78mFej.jpg
I am looking to replace the seacock on my water intake for my 1974 E27 during a haul out. The seacock is in rough shape as you can see. I'm reading that the thru hull is a 1/2" so I'm wondering what size, style, and type of seacock I would need to replace. I'm open to replacing the thruhull as well. Most of the green corrosion could actually be wiped off the thruhull thread and the condition seems to be ok. It would be way less work to only replace the seacock, but I know there's a chance I could damage the thru hull in the process. I'm not sure of the age of the seacock and thruhull, but if I had to guess it was replaced in the 90s during a refit. Any suggestions are welcomed!
 

bigd14

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
That looks pretty bad. Here is a recent thread with info and links to lots of information about this task.

 

JPS27

Member III
over two haulouts I replaced every through hull on my 27 with Groco bronze through hulls, flanged seacocks, and fiberglass backing plates made by an outfit in Deltaville. I followed mainesails (howtomarine) site. the pics show the raw water intake that came with the boat. And the other pic is of raw water, scupper, and sink drain thru hulls
 

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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
For clarity, the OP's initial picture is not a "seacock" but rather a valve screwed onto a threaded thruhull.
In ye olden days may boat builders were using a 1/2" little thruhull fitting for their small inboard engines.
By the 90's most builders of these valves had stopped building them so small, and 3/4" became the new and present "standard".
I would certainly replace that old part with a 'proper' seacock, where the valve is integral to the thruhull fitting. Many times stronger.
Here is one of several threads on this subject, and this thread has other good links in the replies.
 
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Hawaii Sailor

E27, Kaneohe, Hawaii
That looks pretty bad. Here is a recent thread with info and links to lots of information about this task.

Thanks, looks like a lot are going for the flanged adapters. Lot's of different ways to go about this
 

Hawaii Sailor

E27, Kaneohe, Hawaii
For clarity, the OP's initial picture is not a "seacock" but rather a valve screwed onto a threaded thruhull.
In ye olden days may boat builders were using a 1/2" little thruhull fitting for their small inboard engines.
By the 90's most builders of these valves had stopped building them so small, and 3/4" became the new and present "standard".
I would certainly replace that old part with a 'proper' seacock, where the valve is integral to the thruhull fitting. Many time stronger.
Here is one of several threads on this subject, and this thread has other good links in the replies.
Thanks for clarifying, I do realize now it is a valve!
 

Hawaii Sailor

E27, Kaneohe, Hawaii
over two haulouts I replaced every through hull on my 27 with Groco bronze through hulls, flanged seacocks, and fiberglass backing plates made by an outfit in Deltaville. I followed mainesails (howtomarine) site. the pics show the raw water intake that came with the boat. And the other pic is of raw water, scupper, and sink drain thru hulls
Do I need an elbow attached or can it be something like in the picture below? for the raw water engine intake

AGoodIdea.jpg
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Do I need an elbow attached or can it be something like in the picture below? for the raw water engine intake
It depends on the path for the hose to the thruhull. They come with short 90 degree pieces to go to either side, or a straight in hose barb like your picture.
We have the 90 degree top on the Forespar seacock on ours, which is also the "winterizing" version with the ability to introduce antifreeze throughout the war water part of the system.
 

Kevin A Wright

Member III
If you are going to the trouble, I'd replace the through hull as well. I replaced the A4 in my E27 with a new Perkins diesel. When I did the new raw water pump pulled so much water it would collapse the raw water hose because the old seacock had such a tiny opening. I also had a tremendous problem in the fall when loose kelp and jellyfish abounded and it was sucking those so tight against the hull it would stop the cooling water flow. Go with a 3/4" seacock and you are covered.

Good Luck
Kevin Wright
E35 Hydro Therapy
 

sailing42

Member II
If the seacock is for the water intake for your engine then having a straight fitting makes it easier to clean out some seaweed or other stuff that may get sucked up. 3/4 inch would be the minimum size as mentioned in the previous post.
 
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