Shannon & Doran Jones
Member III
Has anyone installed solar panels on an Ericson 30+? If so, where have you mounted them? Photos?
Thanks!
Shannon
Thanks!
Shannon
Solar panel installation location 30+
- Thread starter Shannon & Doran Jones
- Start date
good question, this one is on my mind also. I'm interested in following this link.
Hi Shannon,
I just installed a 320watt solar panel on Lotus Flower (E27). I used some old hang glider tubing to make up a proof of concept mounting location. Lotus Flower has an electric auxiliary so I wanted a way to charge batteries while away from the slip. I do have a Honda 2000i but I wanted something less fumey. Time will tell how well it works...
Here are some photos in the flat and angled positions.
I just installed a 320watt solar panel on Lotus Flower (E27). I used some old hang glider tubing to make up a proof of concept mounting location. Lotus Flower has an electric auxiliary so I wanted a way to charge batteries while away from the slip. I do have a Honda 2000i but I wanted something less fumey. Time will tell how well it works...
Here are some photos in the flat and angled positions.
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woolamaloo
Member III
I decided to add solar to my 30+ in the during the 2017 season in preparation for some extended cruises. I already had a bimini and decided to mount the panels on top. I bought a solar kit with two 100-watt panels and a very basic charge controller for about $300. I really struggled figuring out how to mount the panels. I spent quite a few fruitless weekends at the boat holding the panels on the bimini without making any progress. I had no success until I brought the bimini frame home during the 2018-19 winter and mounted the frame on an old banquet table so I would not have to work on it over my head. The first decision I made was to build an aluminum frame out of 1" aluminum angles that I could mount to the bimini and then mount the panels to the frame. After coming to this realization, things got a lot easier. Of course, I had to be concerned about how the frame would go around the backstay - and that it would stay clear of the main halyard when attached to the end of the boom. I used six of these connectors on the bimini to attach the frame. And I bolted the panels to the frame with stainless hex bolts with vinyl washers to reduce galvanic contact. The canvas on my bimini was quite old and instead of modifying it, I sewed a new one. I’m sorry I don’t have a better picture of the canvas. It came out really nice with a slick window in front of the forestay to be able to see the masthead.
Mounting the panels in the spring has very specific steps. 1. Mount the bimini arches 2. Zip the fore edge of the canvas to the frame 3. Install the aluminum frame (disconnecting one corner to get it around the backstay 4. Screw the panels to the frame 5. Zip the aft edges of the canvas.
Here’s the install in my living room.
There’s a pocket in the canvas that routes the cables to the starboard bimini frame. You can see the pocket a little better in the next picture. I routed the cables through the starboard dorade.
Routing through the dorade is not optimal but I wanted to try it this way before making holes in fiberglass. Now that it's installed, I don't find it objectionable.
In this picture you can see the sides of the aluminum frame which has vertical members which were critical for the frame stability.
I found it important to have an isolator switch so I could disconnect the panels when connected to shore power.
And, the cheap charge controller has already failed and I’ve bought this one that I intend to install next week.
Naturally, I was concerned about windage and how strong this system would be in high winds. Last August, I was on board in 55 knots and 8 footers and it worked perfectly.
Mounting the panels in the spring has very specific steps. 1. Mount the bimini arches 2. Zip the fore edge of the canvas to the frame 3. Install the aluminum frame (disconnecting one corner to get it around the backstay 4. Screw the panels to the frame 5. Zip the aft edges of the canvas.
Here’s the install in my living room.
There’s a pocket in the canvas that routes the cables to the starboard bimini frame. You can see the pocket a little better in the next picture. I routed the cables through the starboard dorade.
Routing through the dorade is not optimal but I wanted to try it this way before making holes in fiberglass. Now that it's installed, I don't find it objectionable.
In this picture you can see the sides of the aluminum frame which has vertical members which were critical for the frame stability.
I found it important to have an isolator switch so I could disconnect the panels when connected to shore power.
And, the cheap charge controller has already failed and I’ve bought this one that I intend to install next week.
Naturally, I was concerned about windage and how strong this system would be in high winds. Last August, I was on board in 55 knots and 8 footers and it worked perfectly.
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I used some old hang glider tubing
Excellent reuse. All I have is wind chimes made from busted downtubes.
Excellent reuse. All I have is wind chimes made from busted downtubes.
Shannon & Doran Jones
Member III
Hi Mark & Jim, nice installs. I think you covered everything. Now to try to duplicate. I may send you questions as this is my next project.
Shannon
Shannon
Also depends on how much solar you want and the purpose?
For just keeping the two 100 Ah batteries charged to leave on the bilge pumps and solar fans, I have a 50W panel in front of the companionway slider.
Till this, the battery drain for the solar fans alone has been doing fine with just a little 1.5W car window cigarette lighter panel.
www.harborfreight.com
Not on the boat at this point, but I do have two 175W panels that will probably go on the sides of the rear pulpit like what is shown below, so they can tilt up when at anchor. For my 32' boat they'd be a lot of weight and wind surface to mount on top of a bimini.
www.sailmagazine.com
For just keeping the two 100 Ah batteries charged to leave on the bilge pumps and solar fans, I have a 50W panel in front of the companionway slider.
Till this, the battery drain for the solar fans alone has been doing fine with just a little 1.5W car window cigarette lighter panel.
1.5 Watt Solar Battery Maintainer
Amazing deals on this 1.5 Watt Solar Battery Charger at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
Not on the boat at this point, but I do have two 175W panels that will probably go on the sides of the rear pulpit like what is shown below, so they can tilt up when at anchor. For my 32' boat they'd be a lot of weight and wind surface to mount on top of a bimini.
Mounting Solar Panels on a Small Boat
When my husband, Dave, and I bought a 29ft sharpie as a summer home, we outfitted her with much of the old gear from our 34ft Creekmore, Eurisko, including
www.sailmagazine.com
Finally got a photo of my 50W panel and it looks like you could put yours in the same spot. There's plenty of room around to not need to step on it. Wires were not yet wrapped and nicely stowed in the photo.
Pete the Cat
Member III
After years of mounting rigid panels on my Tartan's dodger. At 20 years it became time to replace the hard solar panel, so I went to a flexible panel and just laid it on the dodger with super magnets. Did the same on my Ericson dodger. I put a small line of window insulation around the edge to stop any chafe--I have been out in 25 knots and there is no problem. I got the super rare earth magnets from Amazon. The round ones that look like black quarters are the best. The minerals in the rare earth magnets need to be bedded in epoxy (most are) because they are very susceptible to corrosion. This is probably not going to work if you rely on solar for 100% of your power, but I have a 100w panel and could easily have accommodated a larger one. I use solar to keep my batteries topped off so I do not have to drag the cord aboard everytime I come into the slip. Also, my Tartan is on a mooring all summer and both situations keep my batteries topped off and all the Ipads and stuff charged to 100%. FWIW. Nice thing about the magnets is that I could move the panen around if I wanted to. I do have to move the boom to the end of the traveler to get full sun in the slip. Much nicer than plugging in.
peaman
Sustaining Member
I also have a flexible panel, 110W waiting for installation on my dodger. I have made a "flange" or frame for the panel based on guidance from Sailrite. Working on the electrical wiring part now, as part of a significant upgrade. Hoping the extra power will help until I've saved enough for a Hydrovane.
Jaybee
Cocoa, FL 1984 30+
Curious about the "dogbone" on the split backstay, is there a purpose for that?
woolamaloo
Member III
That's part of the backstay adjuster. There are five small sheaves in it. The outer two on each side ride on each leg of the backstay. The center sheave has a wire rope that has a fixed attachment on the starboard chainplate and a block arrangement on port. By tightening the line on the port side, it pulls that sheave assembly down, pulling the two backstays together adding tension to the rig. I think its main benefit is that when I'm sitting at the helm, I bang my head on the backstay less than if there were one going right down the middle.