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Solder Seal Wire Connector Test

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
3 wire MG_6458.JPG...2 wire IMG_6457.JPG

A recent thread introduced us to "solder seal" connectors as an alternative to typical heat-shrink crimp connectors for boat wiring, or the addition of (ridiculously) expensive external heat shrink over automotive connectors.

The price is remarkable: 120 pieces for $10. The heat-shrink sheath seems identical to that of expensive Ancor connectors, except it apparently has no adhesive. There is no crimp necessary--or possible. The wires to be connected join inside a hollow lump of solder, which is then melted with a heat gun.

Hmmm. They work, but it takes a long time to melt the solder. Two-and-a-half minutes of close heat gun, during which it is necessary to hold the wires in place, or perhaps squeeze the solder with pliers. That's a long time, even in the convenience of a kitchen. Upsidedown under the cockpit it would be inconvenient.

A standard crimped connection can be made at arm's length with one hand, so the lack of a back-up crimp is a mark against.

But the price is great, and I'll make these part of the electrical kit for when their use makes sense.

1 wire.JPG...5 wire IMG_6460.JPG

6 wire IMG_6462.JPG...7 wire IMG_6464.JPG
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
View attachment 37200...View attachment 37201

A recent thread introduced us to "solder seal" connectors as an alternative to typical heat-shrink crimp connectors for boat wiring, or the addition of (ridiculously) expensive external heat shrink over automotive connectors.

The price is remarkable: 120 pieces for $10. The heat-shrink sheath seems identical to that of expensive Ancor connectors, except it apparently has no adhesive. There is no crimp necessary--or possible. The wires to be connected join inside a hollow lump of solder, which is then melted with a heat gun.

Hmmm. They work, but it takes a long time to melt the solder. Two-and-a-half minutes of close heat gun, during which it is necessary to hold the wires in place, or perhaps squeeze the solder with pliers. That's a long time, even in the convenience of a kitchen. Upsidedown under the cockpit it would be inconvenient.

A standard crimped connection can be made at arm's length with one hand, so the lack of a back-up crimp is a mark against.

But the price is great, and I'll make these part of the electrical kit for when their use makes sense.

View attachment 37203...View attachment 37204

View attachment 37205...View attachment 37206
Christian,
I have read sometimes that a solder connection is not recommended on a boat due to the vibration and other movement which could stress and break the solder connection, much more likely than a crimped connection if that is done correctly, especially with a ratchet crimper. I never solder on our boat, always crimp.
Frank
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I did some non scientific searching and found one video that explains the several wire-joining methods.
The guy is enthusiastic about the the low-temp solder. I have not tried it. It seems worth some consideration, tho.
 

Gaviate

Member III
Good find Loren!! ....and thanks for sharing.
Frank, I am under the impression that solder connections are ill-advised at a terminal end where shock and vibration will be most pronounced, I expect that splices mid-wire (or thereabouts) such as Christian is showing wouldn't be subjected to the same jarring you might find when anchored to a terminal block on a bulkhead (or the back of the radio, or the chartplotter, or the fuse panel or....etc.) At least, this is the idea I have when working for myself!
 

KS Dave

Dastardly Villain
Blogs Author
Hmmm. They work, but it takes a long time to melt the solder. Two-and-a-half minutes of close heat gun, during which it is necessary to hold the wires in place, or perhaps squeeze the solder with pliers. That's a long time, even in the convenience of a kitchen. Upsidedown under the cockpit it would be inconvenient.
Christian,

I've used these connectors on non-boat projects and really like them; they seem to make a really solid connection. I agree on the time it takes. I wonder if they would go faster with a reflector attachment? Mine gun didn't come with one of these, but I've thought about getting one.

HeatGun-Attachment.png
 

Parrothead

Member III
From ABYC, E-11:
11.14.5.7 Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit. If soldered, the
connection shall be so located or supported as to minimize flexing of the conductor where the solder
changes the flexible conductor into a solid conductor.
EXCEPTION: Battery lugs with a solder contact length of not less than 1.5 times the diameter of the
conductor.
NOTE: When a stranded conductor is soldered, the soldered portion of the conductor becomes a
solid strand conductor, and flexing can cause the conductor to break at the end of the solder joint
unless adequate additional support is provided.
 

goldenstate

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
I think there is a big difference between butt-joint soldering wires freehand and using one of these solder-slide on connections, the latter being easier and more reliable.

I used both crimp and solder-tube connectors when I updated my electronics.

I think it's easy to crimp wires and think you have done a good job, but because the connection is unviewable, you don't really know.

The transparency of the solder tube connections makes the wire-solder-wire connection visible and arguably easier to audit.

It is not recommended but a lighter flame used judiciously will accelerate the liquification of the solder.

I suspect a proper test of these methods would include something like "achieved conductivity" where one tests how well the connection allows the current to flow. I suspect that they all do a good job if connected properly, but that the solder-tube connections conduct better for DIY'ers like yours truly.

Mostly speculation....
 

G Kiba

Sustaining Member
In the 80's, I worked at the company that invented these. The company was named RayChem who were also the original inventors or heatshrink tubing. As i recall, the product was named Solder Sleeves back then and had many auto and aircraft applications. GM bought them by the rail car load and was terminating connections for cruise-control switches that were previously manually soldered in Juarez Mexico. Hot air was the preferred method of termination. I sat down the hall from the guy who designed the production machine that assembled the sleeves. A true mechanical genius. He told me that the main problem in production was vibration. He designed in - a resonance bar that cancelled out the vibration. One day a factory worker thought it was a loose part of the frame and drilled and bolted it in place. It stopped production for a few days until he was called to the factory floor and discovered what had been done.
 

vanilladuck

E32-3 / San Francisco
Blogs Author
Christian,

I've used these connectors on non-boat projects and really like them; they seem to make a really solid connection. I agree on the time it takes. I wonder if they would go faster with a reflector attachment? Mine gun didn't come with one of these, but I've thought about getting one.

View attachment 37229

One of these came with my 20V DeWalt heat gun and it seems to improve how evenly the heat is dispersed and reduces the time with these connectors. I wired up a new stern light the the other day and didn't mind the few minutes of hanging my head upside down in the aft lazerette. Okay, maybe I kinda liked it ;)

Christian, glad to see you tried these out and appreciate the thread!
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
A 3-pack of blue Ancors is $3.79 at Defender. With these you get 40 blues for $9.99...plus 80 more.

It doesn't say "Marine." I'll just write that on the box.
 

racushman

O34 - Los Angeles
Great thread. I couldn't resist buying some of these on the everything store... in my enthusiasm I even upsold myself to the 200 piece set for $16.99

Obviously these are not specifically designed for marine applications like the fine products from Ancor. However, every time I am tempted to worry about that I remind myself of my 44 year old Catalina 30, which is currently on "lend lease" to one of my kids. That boat is full of mostly all the original non-tinned wire, and RV grade connectors. Amazingly, everything still works. Helps me be less of a perfectionist.

These kinds of connectors and the tinned wire available at home depot seem good enough.
 

p.gazibara

Member III
I visited APEX inflatables in Costa Rica when we were there. They use solder type heat shrink connectors exclusively in all of their wiring. The owners of the company claim they are the absolute best option as the wire itself will not corrode which is the biggest point of failure.

I bought some and have used them, but honestly, the heat shrink crimp connectors get used the most. Holding the wires still while heating and not bending the freshly soldered joint seems to be a challenge for me.

-p
 
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