"it depends"....not sure how to go about calculating the proper track height, length, position, etc.
At the top end, the track needs to be at least high enough so that when the butt end is raised, the tip end can clear through the foretriangle in a gibe. It doesn't hurt to go a couple of feet higher than that (keep in mind that when you're racing, there may be a jib on the foredeck/in the feeder when you go to gibe, so... extra height can be useful. If you're going to store the pole vertically against the mast (I'm not a fan, but people do it) the track will have to extend at least a pole-length above the deck, plus room for the cars and track-stops and such.
At the bottom end, it doesn't have to go all the way to the deck. On hard-core racing boats they want the butt end all the way at the deck so that they can lower the pole to deck level and have it all hooked up and ready to use but still out of the way. On our boats, because of the cabintop shape and the guard around the dorade, we're never going to be able to get the butt end that low, so... judgment call, I'd think there's not much point in extending the track all he way to the deck (or, more specifically, the top of the mast boot) unless you're planning to store it vertically.
Many masts have a slight indent extruded along the center of the leading edge. If yours does, that's the centerline. If not, it's easy to find the center.... take a flexible tape and measure from one side of the aft-side track, around the front of the mast to the other side of the track (easier to do than to describe) and then scribe a mark at the midpoint. That's the center of the leading edge. Do the same at the lower end. Then CHECK everywhere along that span to make sure there's not going to be interference with anything (an existing fitting, a wire run, whatever). We're fortunate in that (most of our) wires go down a channel in the aft edge of the mast, but there still might be halyards or coax or something to consider.I've also never drilled/tapped aluminum so am a little concerned about getting it straight and not screwing it up...
When sure there are no issues, centerpunch a point on that line at the right height for the top hole of the track, drill with the right-sized bit, and use a manual tap-handle to tap the (presumably) 1/4-20 threads. Use quality (sharp) drill bits, and quality (hardened) taps. Use some oil to keep the tap from sticking. When the tap "grabs", back it out 1/4 turn to let the chips come out of the threads, then go again. Be patient. I'm (personally) not a fan of running a tap in a drill, too much can go wrong and I'd rather do it by hand, go slow and get it right.
When the top of the track is fastened in the right place, scribe the centerline at the bottom end, centerpunch the point on that line for the bottom-most fastener, and repeat. Once both ends are in the right place and secured on the centerline, the rest are easy.
Two tips: 1), use DuraLac or TefGel or similar on the fasteners to help prevent the aluminum and stainless from marrying each other, and 2) if you have an adjustable backstay, ease it before starting. It's much easier to mount track to a mast that is straight than it is one that has fore-and-aft bend in the area.
If you want help when you're ready to do this.... let me know. Have tools, will travel.