split backstay adjuster on an E27?

[Andrew Means]

I'm not sure how the tiller-equipped E27s have it, but the backstay on my (wheel equipped) E27 splits into two cables about 8 feet from the transom and they terminates opposite of each other on the corners of the transom. There's a backstay adjuster that consists of two pulleys a fixed width apart, with a rope dangling down from them. You may be able to see them in this picture, depending on how much it's been resized.



The one thing that's completely missing is any way to keep the backstay tensioned; the rope just kind of dangles, and there's no block or cleat or anything to allow you to cinch it tight or ease it off. Those of you with this configuration, what do you do to adjust the backstay? I'm thinking just installing a little swivel block near where one of the backstay 'legs' connects, and then run the line back amidships on the transom with a cam cleat or something.

Now that I'm thinking about it, I think there's a chainplate type thing dead center on the top of the transom with one hole visible - although I can't confirm it by memory, I'll double check tomorrow.

 

[dt222]

Cam Cleat

Hi Andrew,

On my tiller E27, there is a small block (pulley) on the center of the transom with a cam cleat that maintains the tension on the downhaul. I don't have a picture, but can take one over the weekend.

Don

 

[Afrakes]

27 Adjuster

Mine is similar with two pulleys in a fixed stainless steel assembly with a loop at the bottom. I have a removable block and tackle with a clam cleat similar to a boom vang with snap shackles at each end that attach to the pulley assembly and led to the starboard aft cleat. In that configuration it is out of the way. Al Frakes

 

[DanielW]

Forgive the cheesy photo , here's the set up I have on my E28. Visible behind yours truly (I've wrapped the tail end of the sheet to tidy it up), the other side of the backstay is fixed and both sides run through the pulley wheels you seem to have on your 27. Both blocks are Harken and work like a dream. Check them out here http://www.pyacht.com/harken-mr-hexaratchets.htm

 

[DanielW]

Here's a better diagram, it's the 8:1 Split Backstay Adjuster http://www.harken.com/rigtips/BackstayAdjuster.php

 

[Mark F]

Hi Andrew, Here is what I had on an E23.

 

[Andrew Means]

AWESOME info everybody, thanks! I'm going to head down to Fisheries Supply to get the necessary blocks and line. I'll take pictures when I'm done.

 

[bigd14]

My setup is similar to Mark F's and DanielW's, but the backstay triangle has a bit more tension than Mark's, but not as much as yours, so the backstay block assembly out of the way but reachable. And I installed a padeye on the horizontal surface (taffrail?) next to each chainplate. This setup keeps the backstay tensioner lines right next to the backstay triangle and away from the outboard cutout so I don't bang my head on them when leaning over the motor.

http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=70 (TR-R backstay block)

http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=38 (25US4-1)

 

[dt222]

Pictures

I finally got some pictures of both ends of my backstay rig.

 

[bigd14]

I took some photos too.

Port backstay attachment point. The line is temporary: I will be splicing a new line in there this winter.

Entire assembly. Please ignore the mess- the bungies are holding a tarp over the cockpit and the contents of the lazarette are emptied out as I am working on installing an internal gas tank...

 

[zube017]

nice, thanks dt222, now i know how to redo mine. i had a feeling whoever did mine(previous owner) didnt do it correctly. i do have one question, the transom on an e27 w/ inboard has some substantial material to screw into? like wood?

 

[Randy Rutledge]

Zube017

I would not use screws for attaching pad eyes, through bolt with backing plates. This tackle has a high load.

 

[bigd14]

The transom is either wood or fiberglass. I cut my transom out and found plywood, but its an earlier model. Later models apparently had all fiberglass. Strangely, as you can see in the photo, there was a gap right in the middle section that was hollow, so when I drilled a test hole to find out what I was going to be cutting I thought it was all hollow. If its plywood, make sure you properly overdrill and fill to prevent any water ingress. In mine water had gotten in and delaminated the plywood and inner and outer skins from freeze thaw cycles. If its hollow, assume its plywood and figure out a way to prevent water from getting in the transom. Maybe shoot a bunch of thickened epoxy into the holes to make a plug so when you redrill water can't get inside. And yes, thrubolt and backing plate!

Let us know how it turns out!

 

[toddbrsd]

Nothing Substantial

nice, thanks dt222, now i know how to redo mine. i had a feeling whoever did mine(previous owner) didnt do it correctly. i do have one question, the transom on an e27 w/ inboard has some substantial material to screw into? like wood?

I have the E27 with inboard. There is nothing substantial to screw into. You will definitely need to nut and bolt with backing plate as everyone else mentioned. Just open the aft lazerette and if should be pretty evident.