The Ray EV-100 Wheel pilot squeaks and the clutch lever sometimes releases unexpectedly.
So?
So?
Squeaky Wheel Pilot Fix (4-minute video)
- Thread starter Christian Williams
- Start date
william.haas
1990 Ericson 28-2
Thanks @Christian Williams. Do you have any perspective to add on the adjustment tension lever on the back of the housing. We keep ours centered, have always done semi-annual screw tightening maintenance/check for the engagement lever, use water every couple hours or so, but... it makes me wonder if I can improve performance or reduce wear with that adjustment as well. I would appreciate your perspective as always. Thanks.
As I understand it, the belt can stretch and that's what the adjustment knob is for. The drive belts can be replaced, although I've never even had to make an adjustment.
I believe the belt and general wear issues are generally the result of inattention to sail trim and therefore excessive control forces required. The initial scene in the video (demonstrating squeaking) is a 32-3 in 17 knots and 2-3 foot waves. Looking back, the WP is working too hard. I ought to have put in a reef, or at least lowered the traveler and let the mainsail luff a bit . The boat should sail itself as much as possible.
I believe the belt and general wear issues are generally the result of inattention to sail trim and therefore excessive control forces required. The initial scene in the video (demonstrating squeaking) is a 32-3 in 17 knots and 2-3 foot waves. Looking back, the WP is working too hard. I ought to have put in a reef, or at least lowered the traveler and let the mainsail luff a bit . The boat should sail itself as much as possible.
Bolo
Contributing Partner
Taking note to what Christian said and showed on his video about pour some rinsing water through the small slotted hole in my Raymarine Wheel pilot I've been trying to occasionally get some water into that hole while underway when my wheel pilot decides to start squeaking, but it's not always an easy thing to do. So I found on Amazon (where else?) (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTHLR18?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) a squirt bottle with a 90 degree bend in the spout...tube...whatever you want to call it. Now I find it very easy to shoot some water into that hole without spilling most of it like from a typical water bottle onto the deck. Sometimes those little things can make life so much easier.
Perfect. I installed a Sunbrella bottle holder next to the winch handle holster.
It takes a used Sparkletts water bottle with a hole drilled in the cap. Point and squeeze.
It takes a used Sparkletts water bottle with a hole drilled in the cap. Point and squeeze.
JSM
Member III
Last week the clutch lever on my three year old EV-100 started to release. Searching the internet I found the post below and decided to give it a try. I lubricated the inside of the black wheels that ride on the concentric cams with a small amount of Teflon grease. So far so good.
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forum...ilot-disengages-by-itself-fix-for-202414.html
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forum...ilot-disengages-by-itself-fix-for-202414.html
I had a similar problem a few weeks ago with an ST4000 unit. The lever screw loosened to the point where I couldn’t disengage the unit. This was a problem because the autopilot is failing and doesn’t hold course when heading east for some reason so I couldn’t just alter course with the controller. I found myself suddenly heading for shore with no steering. Luckily none of the ubiquitous barges were nearby so I could drift for awhile while searching for my Allen wrenches. The autopilot is high on the list for replacement.
JSM, try my fix first (initial post). Grease makes no sense to me.
I read the post you cited (quoted below) . The writer does not understand that wheel pilot is simply not designed to cope with yawing downwind or any significant steering changes. It cannot anticipate, or make sudden powerful corrections. To use a wheel pilot successfully under such conditions (yawing downwind) the course should be changed a little, and sail reduced and adjusted for minimal helm corrections. It is a light duty device. Its range can be extended when attention is paid to reducing helm corrections. If overpowered it will grind its gears or shut itself off.
First, the problem. The autopilot clutch disengages without warning. This usually happens when I'm in a following sea when the pilot is making more significant steering changes to stay on course (when the boat is yawing). The clutch lever will tighten when the wheel turns to starboard and will loosen when the wheel turn to port. It will sometimes make several small turns back and forth (disengaging a little at a time) or one large turn to fully disengage. I have lost my steering on numerous occasions, sometimes jibing (I know, I should have had a jibe preventer rigged).
I read the post you cited (quoted below) . The writer does not understand that wheel pilot is simply not designed to cope with yawing downwind or any significant steering changes. It cannot anticipate, or make sudden powerful corrections. To use a wheel pilot successfully under such conditions (yawing downwind) the course should be changed a little, and sail reduced and adjusted for minimal helm corrections. It is a light duty device. Its range can be extended when attention is paid to reducing helm corrections. If overpowered it will grind its gears or shut itself off.
First, the problem. The autopilot clutch disengages without warning. This usually happens when I'm in a following sea when the pilot is making more significant steering changes to stay on course (when the boat is yawing). The clutch lever will tighten when the wheel turns to starboard and will loosen when the wheel turn to port. It will sometimes make several small turns back and forth (disengaging a little at a time) or one large turn to fully disengage. I have lost my steering on numerous occasions, sometimes jibing (I know, I should have had a jibe preventer rigged).
ConchyDug
Member III
If you ever have the drive motor flat out quit the gearbox can be pulled off. Then the motor pulled out where you can inspect the crappy 18ish gauge wire solder connections to the motor. After re-soldering the wires be careful on the install since you reinstall it by screwing it back together which puts tension back on the wires again... but hey at least they designed it where you can actually work on it.
JSM
Member III
Understood. However mine was releasing under ideal conditions. Flat seas, light and steady winds and on a close reach. Watching the lever I could see it slowly raise upward until it released. Since lubing the squeaking and releasing seems to have stopped.
Perhaps adding water to the unit lubricates the same parts ?
Could be. Tightening the screw of the lever is first step. Anyhow, once you take the wheel assembly apart, you see how simple it is--although I can't say the same for the electronics.
I've asked the Ray wheel pilot forum all the usual questions over the years--including why the lever rose in one direction and not the other ("tighten the screw" he said gruffly).
Also asked why the motor clicks sometimes and whirrs other times. He said that for small increments in course change, say as the pilot corrects to 310m from 312m, the device clicks at every cog. Whereas for big changes, as when you input 360m from a current course of 300m, the programming provides continuous change to get there faster (whirring).
Hard Over Time (HOT) in the settings is misunderstood because the directions are confusing. To make the wheel pilot respond faster, meaning turn the rudder at a faster pace, increase HOT. Pretty counterintuitive, since measured in seconds. Faster turning sounds like a good idea but I eventually went back to factory settings, which at 4 knots makes for a leisurely turn and requires anticipation to avoid, say, a paddleboarder.
When washing the boat, I put the hose into the irrigation port. Salt crystals flush.
I've asked the Ray wheel pilot forum all the usual questions over the years--including why the lever rose in one direction and not the other ("tighten the screw" he said gruffly).
Also asked why the motor clicks sometimes and whirrs other times. He said that for small increments in course change, say as the pilot corrects to 310m from 312m, the device clicks at every cog. Whereas for big changes, as when you input 360m from a current course of 300m, the programming provides continuous change to get there faster (whirring).
Hard Over Time (HOT) in the settings is misunderstood because the directions are confusing. To make the wheel pilot respond faster, meaning turn the rudder at a faster pace, increase HOT. Pretty counterintuitive, since measured in seconds. Faster turning sounds like a good idea but I eventually went back to factory settings, which at 4 knots makes for a leisurely turn and requires anticipation to avoid, say, a paddleboarder.
When washing the boat, I put the hose into the irrigation port. Salt crystals flush.
Bolo
Contributing Partner
Christian is correct when he says that the wheel pilot is a “It is a light duty device”. When the winds and waves are up you’ll know when it’s time to reduce your weather helm or take over manually. Besides that’s when things get interesting and getting your hands on the wheel start become real fun! 
JSM
Member III
Well looks like lubricating was a short term solution. Sailed yesterday under ideal conditions and the clutch began releasing again. Will try adjusting belt tension per Raymarine instructions and see what happens. This unit has had a pretty good workout over the past three years, maybe it's time for a new belt.
https://raymarine.custhelp.com/app/answers/print/a_id/4316
https://raymarine.custhelp.com/app/answers/print/a_id/4316
I continue interested (to a fault). Your clutch lever screw is now tight so the lever can resist popping open. Your unit is flushed with fresh water to get any salt crystals out.
The current issue is slipping, meaning I guess that the motor operates but the wheel doesn't turn. As opposed to grinding, which might mean the gears are stripped from years of abuse. Usually the thing will turn itself off when overtaxed. By "turn off" I mean the control head starts beeping and says something like "disengaged".
I don't know exactly what Raymarine means in the link when it says What do I have to do if the wheel drive slips even when the load is low, or if it disengages itself?
Does "disengage itself" mean turns off, or that the lever pops up?
You are conducting valuable research for which there ought to be some kind of merit badge.
Here is yet another brief video, taken when I had installed my first wheel pilot on the 32-3. I had not learned the importance of reducing weather helm and the pilot kept turning itself off. This is the SPX-5 unit, which had 10 settings. The EV-100 has only three--Leisure, Cruising and Performance. Leisure, corresponding to about 3 in the 1-10 settings, is where I usually am, with sails trimmed so the boat sails itself as much as possible.
The current issue is slipping, meaning I guess that the motor operates but the wheel doesn't turn. As opposed to grinding, which might mean the gears are stripped from years of abuse. Usually the thing will turn itself off when overtaxed. By "turn off" I mean the control head starts beeping and says something like "disengaged".
I don't know exactly what Raymarine means in the link when it says What do I have to do if the wheel drive slips even when the load is low, or if it disengages itself?
Does "disengage itself" mean turns off, or that the lever pops up?
You are conducting valuable research for which there ought to be some kind of merit badge.
Here is yet another brief video, taken when I had installed my first wheel pilot on the 32-3. I had not learned the importance of reducing weather helm and the pilot kept turning itself off. This is the SPX-5 unit, which had 10 settings. The EV-100 has only three--Leisure, Cruising and Performance. Leisure, corresponding to about 3 in the 1-10 settings, is where I usually am, with sails trimmed so the boat sails itself as much as possible.
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JSM
Member III
Have not played with with the lever screw or tension adjustment yet. Unit has been flushed (no salt crystals, I'm on Lake Michigan ).
Lever pops up. Unit preforms flawlessly otherwise.
Thanks ! I'll settle for a working unit. We leave on a 10 day trip next week.
I ordered a new belt from Amazon and found this nugget in one of the comments.
This Belt Worked great. I have used the RayMarine ST4000 MK2 on my sailboat since 2004. Never had an issue. In 2017 I had a lightning strike, and the unit was replaced with a brand new one. Since the time it was installed (by an authorized dealer) it has never worked properly. It seemed the OEM belt was too tight. Tech support was useless and kept telling me to lube the rotating bushings on the eccentric. This would work for about 6 months and then the problem was back. I could barely adjust it to keep from dragging. I believe the new belt material was too stiff and would cause the belt on the motor sprocket to remain bent just enough to make the belt too small. It needed to be less stiff or have one more tooth. I replaced it with this non-factory belt, and it is working perfectly. I will update over time and see how durable it is. In any event the price it right and the ST 4000 is back working again. I'll keep a spare just in case. Being a solo sailor, I am very happy to have my autopilot back and functioning.
It is now over 1 year of use and belt continues to perform well. I adjusted the tension once from the adjustment screw without issue. I believe the OEM belt develops permanent bends as the it sits unused which effectively shortens it, and because there is not enough adjustment to loosen it begins to catch and grab. This replacement belt is more flexible and not prone to memory bends. All in all, it solved my problems, and I will keep a spare on board just in case.
Congrats. That's a very long life for a wheel pilot.
JSM
Member III
Yup... Went to the boat this morning and tightened up that screw. Had a beautiful hands free day of sailing
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bsangs
E35-3 - New Jersey
Just an FYI, earlier this year i3dgear - which fashions and sells parts for these autopilots, and was instrumental in helping me rebuild my ST4000 MK1 unit - shut down its marketplace. However, this thread made me check their website again, and there is a banner message that reads, "Our parts are available on Shapeways Marketplace - Click here." Doesn't seem they offer as many products as they have in the past, but can't recommend the i3dgear parts highly enough. They helped bring my MK1 back from the dead, and they offer parts for the MK2 as well.