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Steering Pedestal Wheel Brake Frustrations

william.haas

1990 Ericson 28-2
Weather in Chicago today was less than 5 knots of wind, 50F, and rainy so I figured it was the perfect time to replace my wheel brake. I had previously bought the rebuild kit from Edson and everything seemed like it would be very straight forward (except this was a boat project and I should have known better). Diving into the project I set out all my tools and supplies, donned latex gloves, and removed the binnacle compass. My next step was to remove the engine controls which involves simply removing two cotter pins and two clevis pins and lifting off the housing… that is unless someone used 5200 to permanently attach the housing to the pedestal.

I figured this would be a set back but something I could work with… just less clearance and a deeper reach. After two hours I finally had removed the small cotter pin from the wheel brake shaft allowing me to fully disassemble the brake and install the replacement parts.

With the engine control housing in place it is impossible to approach the pin vertically (or by rotating the brake shaft at any angle) from the top… and with your hand on the pliers there’s essentially no space to work. The 2.5 inches gained from removing the engine control housing would make all the difference.

After trying to install the new cotter pin by working every angle and some not so creative tool modifications I gave up for the day. Tomorrow I will go to the orange store in search of some very long, narrow needle nose pliers and hope that allows me to install the pin. Then it’s chain maintenance while I’m in there, a few screws and pins to put everything back, a wipe down, and a cocktail (or many).

Has anyone else encountered this issue? Any brilliant suggestions other than pliers which may not exist?

At least one install went well today…
 

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william.haas

1990 Ericson 28-2
Some pictures attached of the final installation and tool used. Per @Christian Williams, you can see the 5200. Open to ideas on how to resolve that without serious damage to the pedestal.
 

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Martin King

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
Ugggh! I hate stuff like this. You have to heat the metal enough to break the bond. I would attack it from inside the housing.That way any damage you do will be hidden. You can use a heat gun and try to slip in a putty knife to start cutting through the goop. Truthfully though, you may need a propane torch to do the job. Wooden or plastic wedges can be helpful in scenarios like this.
 

HerbertFriedman

Member III
There is this "magic" liquid, DeBond, which supposedly softens 5200, if only a little at a time. I have used it but in conjunction with a sharp blade so I am not sure it really works.
 

JSM

Member III
Last one in town. Call and I can hold it for you.
 

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bigd14

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
5200, yuck. If the heating method doesn't work, the Marine Debond HerbertFriedman mentioned should work, but its a bit of a pain. I removed quite a few things bedded with that evil stuff. I would jam a towel into the pedestal to catch drips then score around the inside of the pedestal with a utility knife and spray the Marine Debond into the scored area. The Debond works its magic slowly so give it a few minutes to soak in. Score some more, spray and wait. Repeat as needed. You might also see if you can score around the outside of the pedestal to attack if from both sides. Eventually you should be able to start prying it up. The Debond gives me an instant headache so I recommend using a respirator and goggles and something to absorb drips. Good luck.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Please review any product you wind up using on the 5200. So far "Marine Formula by Debond Corp" is the go-to on the forum. It's usually at Home Depot, or West Marine for double the price.
 

goldenstate

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
I have faced this problem. https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/ubs/wheel-brake-maintenance-the-devil-and-the-delrin.746/

I would forget the Debond. Just take a small putty knife and stick the pointy 90 degree corner in and work the 5200 apart mechanically.
The Edson videos in my blog post may or may not be helpful. The components are fairly strong. As long as you aren't using a crowbar and a sledge, I don't expect you will break anything.
 

goldenstate

Sustaining Member
Blogs Author
I have faced this problem. https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/ubs/wheel-brake-maintenance-the-devil-and-the-delrin.746/

I would forget the Debond. Just take a small putty knife and stick the pointy 90 degree corner in and work the 5200 apart mechanically.
The Edson videos in my blog post may or may not be helpful. The components are fairly strong. As long as you aren't using a crowbar and a sledge, I don't expect you will break anything.
Upon review of my blog entry, I see that solved the problem as I have others on my boat, by hitting the component with a hammer.
This was early in my boat-fixing adventures.
 

racushman

O34 - Los Angeles
I just removed two opening ports and a midships hatch that had been bedded in 5200 by a prior owner. I used the DeBond as highlighted by others... and I think that helped (and I like the smell)... but what really seemed to work was using one of the "flexible" putty knives they sell at Home Depot (mine approximate 1.5 or 2 inches wide). These putty knives are very thin. I would insert a corner of the putty knife under the lip of the port and hatch and then use a hammer to work it all the way around the item. This worked very well for me. Hope that helps.
 

Navman

Member III
I f you have an oscillating saw similar to those made by Dremmel and others, they make a scraper/ putty knife like attachment. i have used it a few times for hard to release items and it works great. Combined with a heat gun, I think your issue would be solved.
 
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