Stuffing Box

[Ted]

I've got to repack my stuffing box. She's a 25+ and no way to pull her out. I sealed the prop shaft underneath with a toilet bowl wax seal, worked really well! It looks like from what I've researched is that the way to access the stuffing box is by cutting an access hole in the quarter berth. Any advice on this is greatly appreciated! What type of saw, etc.

The engine is a Yanmar 1gm, does anyone know the size of the braided flax packing that is needed? Is there something better?
A wild thought has anyone attempted to do this by removing the companion way stairs and engine cover, and going over the top of the engine?

Thanks bunches and bunches for your insight and help!

ted~

 

[Glyn Judson]

Repacking the stuffing box.

Ted, I have on several occasions replaced the packing in our stuffing box with our boat in the water. I have always used a rag to staunch the flow but have for years mused that bees wax should work perfectly in its place yet I've never tried it. Bees wax, not where you have it, but stuffed around the shaft after sliding the cup forward toward the transmission. If just a rag, the secret is having a reliable automatic bilge pump or a helper available to manually pump the bilge as water enters the boat from around the shaft when using the rag method. What I use on my 1" shaft is 3/16" synthetic fiber impregnated with TFPE (Teflon). I also use a putty-like product that comes in a 35mm film can. As I recall, it's green in color and comes in round sticks, probably three or four to the can (just checked and they're both on page 615 of the 2011 West Marine catalog. I have never used the Gore shaft packing but I'd wager that it works just as well if not better. The combination of the two has worked wondrously for me for so many years, I've lost track. The reason it's been so long is that my packing doesn't leak which was not the case years before when I used waxed flax. By the way, my local West Marine used to have a chart that helped as a guide to choose the right size packing according to your shaft size. My idea was to cram the bees wax in place to stop the flow of sea water, remove the old and insert the new packing and then remove the wax just before turning the cup back on but I've never done it because the present packing just won't leak or wear out. After the initial readjustment, I've never touched the cup to adjust it again. That said, I have a pair of gigantic water pump pliers that I keep on board for getting the cup and lock nut loose. It's hard to tell from this link but mine are about 12" long: http://www.channellock.com/Category.aspx?zcid=102. If I understand correctly, you have the wax on the outside of the hull where the shaft emerges. That wax would probably have to be removed before operating the engine, I'd guess. You'll see special tools for sale to remove the old packing but I found it just as easy to lay a slotted pocket screwdriver on the shaft and while turning the cup with the other hand, applying the blade to the packing, and that's all it's ever taken for me to peel the old stuff out. Remember to use three pieces of packing cut into perfectly fitting rings and place the butt ends at 12 o'clock, 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock. Hope this helps, Glyn Judson E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA

 

[Ted]

Glyn thanks for your help. I tried to seal it from the inside and could not get to it, not as young or thin as I use to be! It was leaking pretty bad the bilge pump going off about every 15 min. Figured I'd have to remove the wax, it will be an excuse to put the old dive tank on!

Went to West Marine they said I had to figure out the size of the flax. I would imagine that means taking the stuffing box apart and removing the old material. Will the wax on the outside keep the water from the inside, if the stuffing box is apart? Or put back together with out the packing material? I would have to drive three hours back to San Antonio.

My other issue is getting to it. I can't manuever my body when I go in through the lazerette to reach the stuffing box. I've read of people going in head first! How do you get back out! So I was thinking of cutting an access hole through the quarter berth. There is some one out at the lake who said he can fit, though I feel I should be able to take care of the repairs or be able to do something in case of an emergency. Hmmm....
Ted Schechter, good ol' e25+

 

[Glyn Judson]

Repacking the stuffing box.

Ted, By no means would I trust the wax on the outside of the hull with an open stuffing box for six plus hours unless I first absolutely assured myself that it was staunching incoming water by separating the packing cup from the stuffing box and patiently watching to see if water still came into the hull. That said, of course there is already water trapped around the shaft between the wax you crammed in there all the way up to the presently leaking packing material so if it were to leak, it might already be doing so, proving one way or the other it's efficacy. I guess the question you need to ask is, "Did the wax stop the 15 minute cycling of the bilge pump?" If so, you might already have your answer. Why not double up the wax and apply it to the opened stuffing box? I actually owned an E25+ but it was powered with an outboard so I have no experience with cutting an opening in the quarter berth for access to the packing. On the face of it, I'd have to say though that it would need to be a pretty big aperture to get more than one arm into that area because two hands (and arms, think shoulders getting past the opening) are required to get the jam nut loose and then remove and replace the packing. I realize that you can't get to it yourself without cutting a large opening but maybe a smaller family member or friend could wriggle in and out again through the port lazarette. Is there any possibility of getting a small person in over the engine and transmission to gain access to the stuffing box? I know that's how even I can get back there in our boat. Or is there not enough room above your engine to do that? If the trip to West Marine is that far, why not consider buying on line and getting a variety of packing sizes like 1/8", 3/16" or even 1/4" along with the Drip-Less Moldable Packing Kit? That way, you'd have all the materials on hand and could select the right size as soon as you got the old stuffing out. Is your shaft 1" or 3/4"? Even with the original Yanmar 2QM15 that many of the E31's came with, the shaft was 1". I just don't know enough about shaft sizes for diesel engines in the size range of our boats to speak intelligently on the subject. If it turns out that your shaft is 1" then most likely the 3/16" packing should do given that's what works for me. Sorry, I wish I could be more help but I've hit the ceiling of what I know on the subject. Best of luck, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA

 

[Ted]

The wax seal has done a good job of sealing off any intake of water. I do have someone at the lake who is willing to crawl through the lazerette. I thought of going in over the engine but am not sure of removing the companion way stair, engine cover etc. Last time I was out there I took a look to see how hard that would be, it seems mostly bolted/ screwed on. Do you know if they glued any of this to the fiberglass? I sure would like to be able to take care of this myself.
Ted Schechter, Good Ol' e25+

 

[Glyn Judson]

Companionway stairs in your E25+.

Ted, I'm as sure as can be that the entire engine cover can be removed relatively easily by taking out a bunch of screws. My fading memory tells me that I removed mine at one time for some reason or other but that's been at least 20+ years so I might just be imagining that I did. ; - ) You forgot to tell me the diameter of your prop shaft, I'd really like to know for future reference. Thanks, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55 & former owner of E25+ hull #515, both in Marina del Rey, CA. As a matter of fact, my former E25+ is a mere 50 feet from our E31 and I see her every time I visit our boat. Glyn

 

[Rocinante33]

Packin' Up!!!

Ted,

Go to the Links/Downloads section of this site. Then go to "Common Ericson Equipment Documentation." There is a Ericson factory document there there which is titled, "Prop Shaft Packing Gland Adjustment/replacement Instructions." It won't help with your access issues but it tells you which size packing to use; 1/8" for a 3/4" shaft and 3/16" for a 1" shaft. I would guess that you have a 3/4" shaft.

BTW, a 1-2" piece of PVC pipe (I.D. the same as your shaft diam.) which has been cut lengthwise just wide enough so you can stretch it open and put it over your prop shaft can then be slid in to tamp each row of packing into place inside the stuffing box before you add the next row. It's a trick our dockmate taught us.

Happy packin'!

P.S. There is a ton of info in all those documents in those archives here on EY.org. Thank you, Sean!

 

[Ted]

That's nice to be able to see the old boat! Read the documentation on repacking the stuffing box. They do make it sound like it's a piece of cake to do! Heading out there tomorrow or day after. Going to see if I can go in over the engine after removing the cover. I'll measure the shaft and let you know the diameter. I want to thank all for the input, and all the posts that I was able to read. I am ready to learn another lesson in boatology and as with every project get closer to my Good ol' e25+ Estoy Lista "I Am Ready"
ted~

 

[Rocinante33]

Ted,

I didn't mention that you need a pick to pull the old packing material outta there. A pick with a 90 degree bend near the tip is best. You can get them cheap at Harbor Freight Tools or just get an old ice pick and bend 3/8" of the tip with a vise or even channel lock pliers. You have to pick the old packing outta there before replacing it with the new stuff. Make sure you cut the new rings of packing before removing the packing gland so you are ready to go when you do remove it. Not that much water will come in. Probably just a trickle. I wouldn't go to the trouble of packing wax outside if you haven't already done so. If you have packed wax outside, make sure you remove it before motoring because the packing needs cooling water flowing to it.

BTW, if you use channel lock pliers, don't squeeze the packing gland or the locking nut. The bronze is soft metal and easily deforms.

 

[exoduse35]

...And cut the packing diagonally so the seam overlaps itself! and put the seams in different places! Edd