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Swim ladder steps

cruis-n

Member II
After more than 10 summers of anchoring out and swimming, it's become obvious that I am in need of some add on steps on the swim ladder on my E35-3 (notice I'm not in a hurry when it comes to these sort of things :)). I have seen some on the after market, but can not locate any that meet my requirements. What have others done?

I'm looking for full width steps. Sailnet and others have have steps that you put on either side (by Johnson I think). I think these look terrible. I was given some steps from Catalina that fit 1" rail. They are made of plastic and are 12" long. This is acceptable lengthwise, however, they attach using pop-rivets. I'm not crazy about that approach because if I ever have to remove the steps or they fail, there will be pieces of pop rivets rattling around in the swim ladder every time I raise/lower it. Not sure if I want to through bolt them becaue in the stowed position, there will be a nut/bolt threads sticking up (a prime opportunity to take off a layer of skin a.k.a. get a 'boat bite'). I have been reluctant to drill through the rail becaue I'm not sure if the water that enters when the steps are under water will drain then the ladder is in it's stowed position (of course, pop rivets have the same issue). Should I be concerned about the water draining?

In any case, I need several more to complete the project and found they are available from Catalina Yachts for $15 per step.

I have been unable to locate commercially made wooden steps. I have seen some that are full width that have a metal bracket that is attached to each end to keep it from twisting. The advantage is no holed in the ladder but you still have the bolts protruding when the ladder is stowed. Unfortunately, no one seems to carry these.

I had entertained the idea of making my own out of teak, but the lumber involved is $40-50. A local supplier suggested making them out of mahogany for $14-18. Add $50-60 for the correct router bits and the plastic does not seem so bad.

What have others done to make boarding after swimming less painful? If I can get this one solved my spouse and children will thank you.

cruis-n
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
An Idea...

A friend of ours had the same problem and took his ladder to a local SS welding shop that specialized in marine stuff. They welded on a pair of inch wide SS straps on top of each round tubing step. Then he put teak (you could use another wood or plastic "starboard" material) on for the treads. The attachment bolts were quarter-twenty. They were flathead, flush recessed. On the bottom the nut was a nylock, and the bolt did not protrude past the top of the nut -- nothing sharp sticking down. Plan "b" might to to tap the strap and thread the bolt into it with nothing sticking down. Or, if any thread is exposed, cover each bolt end with a glob of silicone. We do this for any exposed cotter or thread that might snag skin or sails or line.....

Just another .02 worth...

Loren in Portland, OR
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
I too have been meaning to do this for some time. Other than sloth, the main reasons I have not done anything yet is that I didn't want my "fix" to block too much of the view through the ladder, and I didn't want it to be uncomfortale to lean against.

But if I ever get around to it, I plan to go to http://www.plasteak.com/index.html and order either a 8' length of white 2"x2" plastic lumber for $10, or maybe the slightly wider 12' length of 2"x3" for $21.

This is pretty stuff. I used some of the 2x2 before to make a 4" deep grate for the bottom of my icebox that keeps the ice blocks out of the water so they last longer. I also used a 2x6 length of it as an outboard motor mount on my stern rail. Works great.

I would start by finding a friend with a good router and run a 1" radius groove 1/2" deep down one side of the wood, on center, and then cut to length for the steps. Position the strips over the 1" radius rails of the ladder steps so they are level with the ladder DOWN and drill two holes each all the way through the strips and the 1" rails. I would finish by using 1/4 by 20 roundhead bolts with the head on the underside of the rail, and a nyloc nut countersunk on the top of the step.

Yup, that's just what I'm going to do. One of these days.

Anybody near Midland Michigan who wants to loan me a sturdy router with a 1" radius bit?
 

cruis-n

Member II
Great Idea

Steve -
Great idea. That was essentially my plan except I was unaware of the plasteak material. I'm thinking seriously about a piece of 2x3. I have the router, just need to get the round nose bit and I'm good to go.

Thanks for the information!

cruis-n
 

Jim Payton

Inactive Member
OK guys these are great ideas but I need a picture to look at, so when you get it finished would you please post a photo so I can make one too. Maybe put it all together with directions and post it in the Owners & Projects section of this web site.
 

Sean Engle

Your Friendly Administrator
Administrator
Founder
Look in the Projects

There's a PVC swimladder extension that might fit your bill in the Projects Section of this site. Cheap, light, strong - very easy to build - and removable....

//sse
 

Ray Rhode

Member III
As usual we took an entirely different tack. Installed a gunnel mounted ladder at the boarding gate. It extends further into the water making it easier to board; has flat rungs which are easier on the feet; and there is less pitching motion to contend with since it is further forward. It folds and stores in the stern locker. Have also used it to reach the dock in situations where extreme tides have made it difficult to board at a fixed dock.

Ray Rhode
S/Y Journey
 

Sean Engle

Your Friendly Administrator
Administrator
Founder
One Other Thing...

I guess I should mention that up here in Puget Sound - we use the ladder more as an emergency device than anything else - what, with the water being in the 50s all the time ... :p

//sse
 

cruis-n

Member II
Prototype picture

Weill I did some checking around and decided to use a product called Trex. It's 50% recycled plastic and 50% oak chips. Builders use it for decks around here. In fact the guy told me he sells 3 plastic /wood decks for every one all wood deck. In any case, I used 5/4" x 6 planking and split it down the middle. With a table mounted router, routed the center groove 1/2" deep to fit the tubing and did a roundover on the cut edges. Then routed the ends to fit the ladder sides. There is not quite enough material between the edges of the step so I decided to skip u bolts (you need a 1 3/16" u bolt to fit 1" tubing). Instead I'm going to through bolt, counter sinking the nut into the top of the step as was suggested earlier. This material has a good reputation. If it does not work out, there's always, Plasteak, teak. mahogany, or oak. At $1.75 board/foot there is little risk.

Here is a picture of the bottom step. Total I'll end up installing four steps. The upper ones need to have a different angle because the angle of the tread to to the sided of the ladder is not 90 degrees. Will measure that this weekend and finish the end cuts. Installation to follow.

I'll post pictures when it's done.

PS. We spend lots of time in the water during the North Texas summers. Not like folks on the Puget Sound. Brrrrrrrrr
 

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escapade

Inactive Member
When I mounted teak swim ladder steps on my old boat, I used 1/4-20 oval head screws & drilled & tapped the tube for this thread. It worked just fine (strong enough) and you avoid having any nuts or threads sticking through to make your skin leak blood! Am planning to do the same on present boat but that is down on the project list. Anything to avoid a "meat hook" is always a pretty good idea. Bud E34 "Escapade"
 
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