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TAFG hollow but not cored, right? [bilge connecting tubes]

Hagar2sail

Member III
Blogs Author
Working in the bilge yesterday troubleshooting a bilge pump (turns out the pump itself was seized). While in there I noticed that several of the “pipes” (looks like PVC to me) that go between the bilges through the TAFG had partially slipped into the grid. This meant bilge water was free to fill in there if it got more than an inch deep. Looks like there isn’t any coring in the TAFG, so this isn’t a huge deal right? Or the fact that the pipes aren’t sealed? Also, were the pipes factory?
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I had that situation on the 32-3. I concluded that the limber-hole tubes (apparently PVC) were there to keep water (rain water, stuffing box water) out of the TAFG structure and to contain it in the several molded bilges. My tubes had broken their bond with the TAFG and were just sorta lyin' there.

I didn't bother with a fix, because water inside the TAFG is inevitable, and with the tubes gone the bilge pump pumps out the TAFG too.

The fix would be easy enough. Just remove the existing PVC, insert new PVC, and seal in place with caulk. Or re-seal the old PVC. My current E381 has the connecting tubes still bonded, and that does pretty much keep the rainwater contained.

Still, mystery water gets in. To drain the TAFG itself my model has plugs installed.

1-TAGF drain 2.JPG
 

Hagar2sail

Member III
Blogs Author
I wish my bilge was that clean. Yeah I saw that picture of yours in the thread for the fuel in the TAFG. I don’t think I have any plugs, factory or modified.
So to be clear, the TAFG is just solid glass, against the solid glass of the hull. I don’t need to worry about saturated core in an inaccessible void.
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
Different boats seem to be configured in different ways in regards to connecting or isolating the bilge compartments from the TAFG. My Ericson 32-3 has 1-1/2" (roughly) holes drilled at the bottom of every bilge compartment (shower bilge excluded) to allow water to free-flow under the TAFG and between the bilge sections. Despite this, I also have the larger (roughly 2 1/2") PVC tubes located higher in the bilge compartments which carry the bilge hoses. Although there was originally caulk around these larger PVC tubes, I can't believe the caulk was to keep water out of the TAFG, since there are already drain holes at the bottom which do just the opposite. It seems to me that the caulk was meant to do nothing more than hold the tubes in place.

20200327_210536.jpg

With the caulk missing, I got tired of the PVC pipes slipping into the TAFG while I was working in the bilge, so I've used screws to keep them in place. Re-caulking around the tubes is a pain.

If you look at both the drain holes and the larger holes for the PVC, there seems to be no evidence of coring in the TAFG--just thick fiberglass.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I looked at my 32-3 files again and you're right, Ken. The PVC is conduit. There are separate limber holes to drain the interior TAFG.

1-Theonious bilge C.jpg

It's a little different on the 381. The TAFG bilge-connect tubes are sealed, and some compartments have removable drain plugs to empty water caught in the TAFG. There's no factory plumbing in the 381 bilge.

1-TAGF no drains.JPG

Re whether core in the TAFG, here's the hole for the 32-3 table support--3/4" thick and very solid indeed.

1-Thelonious bilge TGF 7 8ths thick.jpg
 

Hagar2sail

Member III
Blogs Author
Thanks guys.

Different boats seem to be configured in different ways in regards to connecting or isolating the bilge compartments from the TAFG. My Ericson 32-3 has 1-1/2" (roughly) holes drilled at the bottom of every bilge compartment (shower bilge excluded) to allow water to free-flow under the TAFG and between the bilge sections. Despite this, I also have the larger (roughly 2 1/2") PVC tubes located higher in the bilge compartments which carry the bilge hoses. Although there was originally caulk around these larger PVC tubes, I can't believe the caulk was to keep water out of the TAFG, since there are already drain holes at the bottom which do just the opposite. It seems to me that the caulk was meant to do nothing more than hold the tubes in place.

View attachment 33906

With the caulk missing, I got tired of the PVC pipes slipping into the TAFG while I was working in the bilge, so I've used screws to keep them in place. Re-caulking around the tubes is a pain.

If you look at both the drain holes and the larger holes for the PVC, there seems to be no evidence of coring in the TAFG--just thick fiberglass.

I like the idea of the screws to hold things together. Makes sense to me. A bunch of the black caulk was just sitting in the bilge. Now I know what it was from.
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
This was the through hull for the head discharge and the TAFG is from 0-3/8" on the tape. Definitely solid fiberglass. Same everywhere else I've cut or seen holes through it.
20200305_181837-X2.jpg
 

Doug177

Member III
I had that situation on the 32-3. I concluded that the limber-hole tubes (apparently PVC) were there to keep water (rain water, stuffing box water) out of the TAFG structure and to contain it in the several molded bilges. My tubes had broken their bond with the TAFG and were just sorta lyin' there.

I didn't bother with a fix, because water inside the TAFG is inevitable, and with the tubes gone the bilge pump pumps out the TAFG too.

The fix would be easy enough. Just remove the existing PVC, insert new PVC, and seal in place with caulk. Or re-seal the old PVC. My current E381 has the connecting tubes still bonded, and that does pretty much keep the rainwater contained.

Still, mystery water gets in. To drain the TAFG itself my model has plugs installed.

View attachment 33901
Tubes through the TAFG for wiring. What a novel idea. I only have a scarce few. I am deciding whether to go through the grid or route the cables for my new windlass some other way. Christian. how do you like your "Water Witch" Switch vs the rule flippers which always seem to gum up on me.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
After 3+ years I can't fault the Water Witch, which works as advertised. And it's neat and small.

I do wish I'd mounted it lower, since it currently leaves an inch of water in the boat.

I use the usual Rule toggle three-way switch for Manual, Off and Automatic. I use Manual to remove rain water, but I have to remember to set the switch to Auto when I leave the boat. There must be a rewire to make Auto the default, but I haven;t figured out how to do it.

TAFG drain 2-001.JPG
 

Doug177

Member III
Good....I will give the switch a try. It gets mixed reviews. After looking at all the photos of cable runs through the TAFG I am about to do some tidying up too. I always wondered what was or what was not inside the TAFG. Now I know. This site rocks! Thanks folks.

On my 1987 35-3 I will buy some inexpensive thick wall fiberglass radio mast tubing, run it through the TAFG and epoxy it in place from compartment to compartment. I have used it before on other boats and it is very strong and durable. Maybe it will even strengthen an already strong grid. Doug
 

Alan Gomes

Sustaining Partner
Good....I will give the switch a try. It gets mixed reviews. After looking at all the photos of cable runs through the TAFG I am about to do some tidying up too. I always wondered what was or what was not inside the TAFG. Now I know. This site rocks! Thanks folks.

On my 1987 35-3 I will buy some inexpensive thick wall fiberglass radio mast tubing, run it through the TAFG and epoxy it in place from compartment to compartment. I have used it before on other boats and it is very strong and durable. Maybe it will even strengthen an already strong grid. Doug
As another data point, my Water Witch has worked flawlessly for years. Can't say the same about the mechanical switches I've replaced in the past.
 
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