teak pox

[debonAir]

Over the last three years, the finish has been falling off my teak (sounds like a euphemism...) Mostly in the upper areas especially on the panel above the V-berth. The teak underneath the finish is much lighter in color, and I have no idea how to fix this. I would like to keep the original rich color. The first pic shows the fwd port side in the main cabin, the second pic shows the wall over the V berth where I sampled poly urethane (upper) and total-boat wood sealer (lower) patches. The poly made some of the teak match, but mottled, and some of the lighter areas remained light. Uggh. I am guessing I need to further sand the light areas and stain them somehow? I thought I had read somewhere on here about someone doing that but can't find it?

Any ideas how to get this teak to look somewhat uniform? Do I need to sand all the old finish off? I don't think that is possible. In some areas it is thinner than paper.

Thanks for your ides!

 

[Loren Beach]

You might want to look at my blog entries from 2012, Sept 26, and Dec 1.
Note the color of the surface after stripping and varnishing.
One other note: there were places where the prior owner allowed moisture & dirt to sit for years and this went into the grain a ways. It takes repeat washing and treating with "Te-Ka A and B" to really clean up the grain and the surface so that new varnish will adhere. The factory oil finish was not a hard or 'sealed' surface, and a lack of maintenance over the years necessitated a lot of the refinishing that we did.

 

[debonAir]

Thanks. I thought I had the "factory varnish" finish. Would an oil finish flake off the way mine did?

 

[Loren Beach]

Thanks. I thought I had the "factory varnish" finish. Would an oil finish flake off the way mine did?

I think so, but am only an 'authority' on my own boat! I am aware that the factory offered optional varnished-out interiors for $$.

 

[Christian Williams]

I think the -3 series teak interiors were finished with satin (non-glossy) varnish that contained a stain. It's hard to be sure, but the evidence in my case is the shelves of the wine rack, which when I took it apart the hidden undersides showed it had been finished in place, with a soaked rag that left unambiguous wipe marks on the raw teak.

I would try a test spot of light sanding and Interlux Schooner satin. It happens to have a stain in it, or a characteristic color, that matches factory existing. The veneer won't take much sanding. If the light areas have already been refinished, that won't work because the finish locks the color.

I've notice that boat curtains--the style on tracks such that the fabric slides over the teak when open--hide much of typical portlight water damage.

And as you know there's always paint, which looks surprisingly good on the interior cabin house portlight panels.