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Thought it wouldn't happen to me

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
Recovering from what feels like a mild heart attack, I was doing a lot of scrubbing and such inside the boat when suddenly I smelled burning and the starter started cranking like crazy. I jumped over and shut off the battery switch and went to look at the engine panel... Haven't figured out the root cause but this is probably why they say to get rid of these.

PXL_20200927_224626885.jpg

What if I wasn't on the boat?
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Welcome to the "choir" that you are now preaching to!
:(

That would be the Universal-Westerbeke Cheap-Ass Trailer Plug Burning Engine Harness singing/wailing group......
Not the main reason, but definitely on the list of reasons I chose a Betamarine over a Universal when re-powering.......

And, did you actually have a heart attack??? Yikes!
 

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
Welcome to the "choir" that you are now preaching to!
:(

That would be the Universal-Westerbeke Cheap-Ass Trailer Plug Burning Engine Harness singing/wailing group......
Not the main reason, but definitely on the list of reasons I chose a Betamarine over a Universal when re-powering.......

And, did you actually have a heart attack??? Yikes!

No, no actual heart attack. But it was pretty shocking! I'm not sure why this would've happened all of the sudden, there was no power draw at the panel...the switch was off
 

Afrakes

Sustaining Member
Have any of you salt water guys ever thought about occasionally taking the dreaded trailer plugs apart, cleaning the terminals and reassembling with dielectric grease? Just wondering.
 

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
Have any of you salt water guys ever thought about occasionally taking the dreaded trailer plugs apart, cleaning the terminals and reassembling with dielectric grease? Just wondering.

I'm not sure the plugs themselves are actually rated for the amount of current going through them, even when clean. This one did last 30 years, though...

Looking closer at it, the orange wire is now where the starter current runs. Might've been more current than that one old wire connection was ready for... Maybe it got hot enough the last few times I used it that it started wearing down the connection between orange and red, and something finally jostled it and melted it enough that the orange and red connected, engaging the starter.

20200927_174656.jpg

Still not really sure why it was so hot after a few hours of doing nothing at the dock.

I'm trying to get ready to cruise after two months in the yard, I need my boat to stop adding more projects to my already long list!
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
I'd run out and buy a lottery ticket today. You've already had a $30K pay off. Glad to hear it!

At its source on the starter solenoid, that red wire is subject to the full amperage of your battery Bank (whichever is selected by the BATT switch) unless you have inline battery fuses installed (and even then, battery fuses are rated MUCH too high for that 10 gauge red wire). Ericson did install a 30A inline fuse in the red wire, albeit 20 feet away, up at the engine panel. The panel is protected, but not the wire that feeds the panel.

Along with addressing the trailer plug problems, I think it's equally important to relocate the red-wire inline fuse to the starter-solenoid side of the circuit. It could have tripped before the current melted your trailer plug.
 
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Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Afrakes,
In answer to your question, a few years ago I separated the trailer plugs, lightly sanded them, applied dielectric grease and reassembled, as they looked clean, like new. A short while later, a general mechanic solved an electrical problem that was puzzling me, and commented that the plug connections looked fine.
This past winter, I decided to replace the trailer plugs with a bus bar connection, as I was having intermittent unpredictable staring problems when I pushed the started button. Since making that change I have had no starting problems, and I feel safer on the boat. Although the plug connections looked fine, I think they are not as solid as connecting with a bus bar.
Given the potential risk, and my experience with intermittent start problems, I probably should have made the change sooner, and would recommend that anyone still with trailer plugs replace them with a bus bar--it only takes about an hour in total. By adding a bus bar, I was also able to shorten the length of the overall wiring harness by about two feet, and delete the second trailer plug near the engine panel, thereby simplifying the system and minimizing voltage drop
Frank
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author

Lots of good info on this link. As the old saw goes: "read and heed"
 
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Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
Along with addressing the trailer plug problems, I think it's equally important to relocate the red-wire inline fuse to the starter-solenoid side of the circuit. It could have tripped before the current melted your trailer plug.

So I actually do have an in line fuse on the orange wire that now goes from the starter solenoid to the engine panel. Maybe it's oversize? I'm pretty sure it's a 20A.
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
That would be normal. The old yellow-red starter wire that you replaced with the orange wire with had a similar fuse (I think the spec is for 10A). But the orange or yellow-red wire is only hot when the start button is pushed. This wire goes to the "control" post of the starter solenoid.

The red wire that powers the entire engine panel becomes hot as soon as the BATT switch is selected to 1 or 2. This wire shares the "power" terminal of the starter solenoid with the 'battery' cable coming from the BATT switch.
 

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
That would be normal. The old yellow-red starter wire that you replaced with the orange wire with had a similar fuse (I think the spec is for 10A). But the orange or yellow-red wire is only hot when the start button is pushed. This wire goes to the "control" post of the starter solenoid.

The red wire that powers the entire engine panel becomes hot as soon as the BATT switch is selected to 1 or 2. This wire shares the "power" terminal of the starter solenoid with the 'battery' cable coming from the BATT switch.

Got it. Fuse going in tomorrow. I cut and spliced all the trailer connector wires and everything seems ok but I'm kinda shook!
 

Kenneth K

1985 32-3, Puget Sound
Blogs Author
I was wrong. The wiring diagram shows a 20A fuse in the old yellow-red (or orange if replaced) wire to the starter solenoid.
 

CSMcKillip

Moderator
Moderator
Well.... This is the first time reading about this issue.... Universal M25. I will be heading to the boat this weekend and checking my wiring. My panel doesn't have a Voltage just RPM and Temp.
 

supersailor

Contributing Partner
After being stranded three times in my first year of ownership with no wind and no working engine because of the wiring, I decided to strip out my entire engine wiring "system" and start over. The first step was to decide what I wanted and didn't want.

-Eliminate the high amperage circuit running to the panel and through the ignition switch. This is a fire hazard. I had several switches fail.

-Separate the glow plug and starter switches. I found pushing both switches with your nose on the cockpit sole every time you wanted to start the engine to be a pain. The glow plugs are only needed if the engine is really cold.

-Eliminate the long high amperage run for the glow plugs to prevent voltage drop.

-Eliminate the ammeter and install a voltmeter.

-Raise all wiring connectors as high as possible above the bilge.

-Eliminate in line fuses and collect all fuses together for ease of troubleshooting.

-Provide a means for troubleshooting while single handing.

-Make all connectors screw on solid contact to eliminate possible arcing of push on connectors and use tinned wire.

With all this in mind, I sat down with a blank piece of paper and started to design. What I came up with is the "Gold Plated" Terra Nova system. I have not experienced an electrical problem since. That includes my "near death" experience with salt water over the top of the dinette table. Any original wiring was toast but my newly installed wiring survived without problems.

This kind of system is not required but there are some things that absolutely need to be corrected.

-Get rid of the trailer connector harness and the excess wire immediately. This is a fire hazard.

-Pull all connectors as high above the bilge as possible.

-Replace any automotive type connectors in the bilge with shrink fit ones to prevent corrosion.

-Check and clean your ground connector to the engine block. Use dielectric grease on it. This connector is where so many electrical problems originate.

-Use marine rated connectors. They are more expensive than automotive connectors but you get a much more robust connector.

-Use dielectric grease on the connectors. It is most amazing stuff.

Good luck and happy boating.
 

1911tex

Sustaining Member
What is absolutely amazing to me.....there are several sailboats at our marina that have up to 14 year old state inspection decals.....covered with mildew, bottom inches thick with zebra mussels, totally ignored by owners who pay monthly slip rentals and nauseating to look at.....and floating !!! Yet we all bare witness to constant updates and worry about doing the right thing to make our Ericson's safe, happy and healthy !
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Yes, we've all seen those neglected boats. But for those of us who are passionate sailors, and own lovely well maintained Ericsons, anything we can do to keep them sailing well is paramount.
And some of these neglected boats relate to misfortune, illness, life - - the sad side of things.
Frank
 

EYonMagathy

Junior Member
Gentlemen, I'm starting to fix issues now, starting with this trailer connect; quick question from reading the "How -to" link on replacing the ammeter with the voltmeter - what type/model/specs d I need to look for when purchasing the voltmeter?

TIA
 

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