Thoughts on upgrading electrical systems???

[rwthomas1]

Hello All,
I have posted several times regarding alternator/regulator upgrades for my '83 E38. I am "almost" ready to make a purchase. I say almost because I am also reading Nigel Calders Electrical and Mechanical Manual. This has led to thoughts of converting my E38 to a fully 12volt based system with inverters providing the AC power. These systems are available from Xantrex and others and appear quite nice giving the option of AC power when needed without AC generation and also the optional control of a unit like a Link 2000R which would monitor everything and even has a built in alternator regulator. My AC needs are minimal, electric shaver and maybe a small microware at some point. Since I am on a mooring it would be nice to be able to run the odd AC stuff when needed.

So I guess the question is, is all this complexity really needed? The addition of a battery/energy monitor-controller seems quite worthwhile if total control is wanted but how necessary is this stuff? I was just looking to upgrade the alternator/regulator and be done with it but now I am wondering if it should be taken farther? Appreciate any input on this particularly from people with these types of systems. Thanks! RT

 

[stbdtack]

Rob,
The Alt/Reg set-up is a must. The 2000R is really nice but pricey. As I remember its about $600?
What i find I use most is the digital voltmeter. Thats quickest way to tell the level of the batteries. I have a link 20 to monitor 2 banks. Its nice to have the amp draw/charge feature as I can tell what the alternator is doing and if I'm using too many lights. I thought the battery status bar graph was gimmicky but I find its a good quick glance tool.
The Amphour feature is good if you get it calibrated correctly but I just dont use it much.

I have a 2000 monitor on my other boat and its nice but doesnt really do anymore than the link 20 on the Ericson. The 2000 will control the Heart/Xantrex inverter if you have one. The regulator built into the 2000R is nice but I think you can get a seperate xantrex reg for less money.(same company)
I see the Link 20 and 2000(non R) on Ebay for around $280 and I got my Xantrex regulator for around $80

I just have a cheap xantrex 1500 inverter for AC power. I already had a 90amp charger so I didnt need the Inverter/charger. I picked it up at Costco for about $80. Its really compact and mounts right under the chart table. Has 2 outlets on the front but i went to the trouble of running it into the boats AC panel with a transfer switch so I can have power to all the outlets on the boat.
Anyway just my $.02

 

[footrope]

I'll try to keep this short ...

I bought an E38 that mainly had the interior layout and performance I wanted, but came with a fully independent house system that included a second, dedicated 190-amp alternator & regulator, an inverter (Heart Interface inverter/charger), a small microwave, 12V fridge, and was wired for a 12V TV. There's a couple descriptions already on the boards if you search for them. The gear is all mid-late 90's vintage.

I would be in the same situation you're in - what to add/upgrade - if the boat didn't have those items already. The 'but' is because my system has a weak point if the goal is a better life while on the hook - the alternator. It has moving parts and is in the hottest part of the boat.

The inverter is a good idea - it is a convenience and allows you to use cheap and easy to replace appliances like coffee grinders and drip coffee makers. Or to charge your laptops and cell phones and razor. Inverters get more reliable with every passing year. My friends in their 25-footer have a drip coffee maker and a small 115VAC CD player on their 1000VA inverter that they use all the time on the hook or in the marina.

The second alternator isn't necessary, but if you want one less vacation or weekend interruption, carry a 'ready to go' spare or have it checked regularly. There are good alternator switching solutions out there so you can get along with one alternator. Good batteries (I have 4 AGMs) and a properly set up regulator are the next most important items. My spare reg. is a Xantrex and I have two Alphas in service. When I get new house batts I will probably install the Xantrex and keep the Alpha as a spare. I am not sure what to say about keeping the batteries topped up properly on the hook. I am in a marina. An AC charger that is designed for your battery choice is a must for battery health during winter storage.

I have an older, but feature-packed battery monitor that handles the 2 house banks and the engine battery. It has all the A-Hr consumption, in-out charge-draw features, and it is digital - quite nice to monitor the approximate health of the batteries.

We are working towards the ability to go up to 2 weeks without provisioning in our cool, very moist climate. We've jettisoned the microwave and TV setups, and will eventually carry DVD movies for entertainment. We like the fridge for its ability to cool beer and freeze meats. We added a 12V diesel heater this winter that can supply instant hot water for the shower.

This is more like 3 cents worth, so I hope it helps. We are not minimalists - we have our 'vices'

 

[rwthomas1]

Thanks Craig and Ben,
Its nice to hear from other E38 owners since I know what you recommend will work on mine. At the bare minimum I will be doing the alternator/regulator upgrade. I am curious as to what size batteries, how many and where you have them placed in the E38. My E38 has the forward head/aft quarterberth layout and the batteries are under the aft quarterberth. Currently I have three group 31 commercial duty batteries. Two for house duty and one for dedicated start. I know since I have refrigeration that this is not enough. I am planning on adding a 4th dedicated start battery, in a box behind the engine, and tying the third 31 into the house pair to add capacity. The batteries came with the boat, were new in '04 so I am going to live with them until they die. If possible I would like to squeeze two 8Ds in somewhere but that is likely a winter project. The Link/etc. setup would be a nice feature to keep an eye on the house bank regardless. Thanks, RT

 

[Loren Beach]

Hi Rob,
Strictly in the FWIW Dept, we are getting by nicely with approx 235 amphours in our two Trojan golf cart batts for the house bank. We have a separate starting/emergency battery that is approx a group 27 in size.

Our house bank is very roughly equal to a pair of group 31's, if I understand it right.
Our reefer is very thrifty, also, being a Frigoboat with a "keel cooler."
:nerd:

If nothing else, I would *most strongly* advise you not to go with an 8D.
I helped a friend remove two of those monsters from his CT38, and it near-wounded us both. He replaced this factory configuration with four golf cart batteries. Virtually the same amphours and much easier to move 'em in or out.

Best,
Loren

 

[footrope]

House batteries

I have four 100 A-hr AGMs. Not sure what group size, but they're about 13 x 7 x 7 inches. Two are in the forward end of the aft quarter berth and two are under the aft dinette seat. Also under the seat are the Heart and the other AC battery charger (that is better than the Heart because the charge and float voltages are adjustable. Like I said, '90s vintage). The PO gave up quite a bit of storage. The start battery is a gel cell, located under the nav seat.

Here's the dinette layout: Aft is up

 

[wurzner]

Our E38-200 has the aft head/shower setup. We have 4 6 volt batteries under the starboard bench so I'm guessing we have around 380 Amp hours. We have an old cruising direct Amp Hour/Voltage meter hooked up in the panel which is a GREAT feature ( I believe the precursor to the Link System). It shows voltage by bank and amps in/out depending on if you are on A/C or not. The disconnected teh Amp gauge at the helm due to the loss associated with the long run from under the galley (where the engine is) to the cockpit. I have a Heart Inverter/charger that is really nice (but must be a high frequency instead of a line inverter due to its small size). Also, I believe I have a 160 AMP alternator with a three stage regulator. I really like the setup and if you get an inverter/charger, make sure it has an equalization feature.

regards
shaun