time for a new toilet in the head - anyone replaced theirs recently?
- Thread starter Andrew Means
- Start date
Andrew Means
Member III
Beautiful job there Mark, that's amazing. My E27 has a hanging locker there, which is currently overflowing with life jackets and other assorted stuff and not really doing anybody any good. I think I'm going to install a sink as well, and that's a fantastic idea about plumbing it with the raw water intake. Where does your sink drain to?
To Randy and Bluechip - to be honest I've never really liked the Raritan we have in our boat. The pumping is laborious and the plastic has yellowed and the dry/flush valve is hard to turn. Some of these things might be fixed with a new gasket kit, but I think I'll leave that to whomever wants to buy it; I need a fresh start. Maybe in 5 years I'll need to spend $75 on a new Jabsco pump unit (they're modular, so you don't have to worry about doing individual gaskets), but for now it's the one I've chosen.
To Randy and Bluechip - to be honest I've never really liked the Raritan we have in our boat. The pumping is laborious and the plastic has yellowed and the dry/flush valve is hard to turn. Some of these things might be fixed with a new gasket kit, but I think I'll leave that to whomever wants to buy it; I need a fresh start. Maybe in 5 years I'll need to spend $75 on a new Jabsco pump unit (they're modular, so you don't have to worry about doing individual gaskets), but for now it's the one I've chosen.
Andrew Means
Member III
Ahh, nevermind Mark - the sink drains to the raw water intake, I see now. Brilliant!
Also great job on that garbage can (smart move with the hole in the can and the hook!) - are both of those doors pre-made, or did you fashion them yourself?
Also great job on that garbage can (smart move with the hole in the can and the hook!) - are both of those doors pre-made, or did you fashion them yourself?
Not sure of the exact year, but about a decade ago Raritan changed the design of the little "air valve" that you have to turn to Dry Bowl the head. After that change it turns easier. For years before, it used to be really difficult to get a grip on, IMHO.
Loren
Greg Ross
Not the newest member
The Royal Throne
Along the lines of the WC Skipper but from across the Pond, the British built "Baby Blake" There's a side by side with the Raritan and my New-to-me Baby Blake head as installed. Found it on eBay a couple of years ago, new-Old Stock, circa about 1992.
New today, and still built by the way, you could increase the relative value of your Yacht by 50%!
List price, now made to order at a hefty £5387.23
http://www.leesan.com/index.asp?m=3&b_idno=2&p=165&t=Blakes that's $8695.80 US tonight
Whew! My boat is appreciating significantly.
Loren, this baby is described as classic porcelain and of course "bronze"
Along the lines of the WC Skipper but from across the Pond, the British built "Baby Blake" There's a side by side with the Raritan and my New-to-me Baby Blake head as installed. Found it on eBay a couple of years ago, new-Old Stock, circa about 1992.
New today, and still built by the way, you could increase the relative value of your Yacht by 50%!
List price, now made to order at a hefty £5387.23
http://www.leesan.com/index.asp?m=3&b_idno=2&p=165&t=Blakes that's $8695.80 US tonight
Whew! My boat is appreciating significantly.
Loren, this baby is described as classic porcelain and of course "bronze"
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Baby Blake and Raritan.JPG -
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hoses.
Heads are a fairly easy install, and like some others, I like the Raritan, I actualy took out an almost new wilcox and replaced it shortly after getting this boat.
What has been mentioned, but not really stressed is the hoses. Buy the best, you won't regret it because the cheaper ones start smelling after a very short time. your current hoses might be ok, but there could also be build-up inside restricting flow. Heating the ends of the hoses also makes installation easier. I use the heat gun I have for stripping varnish.
Good Luck,
Don Wigle
Wiggle Room
E 38 #8
Pt. Richmond, CA
Heads are a fairly easy install, and like some others, I like the Raritan, I actualy took out an almost new wilcox and replaced it shortly after getting this boat.
What has been mentioned, but not really stressed is the hoses. Buy the best, you won't regret it because the cheaper ones start smelling after a very short time. your current hoses might be ok, but there could also be build-up inside restricting flow. Heating the ends of the hoses also makes installation easier. I use the heat gun I have for stripping varnish.
Good Luck,
Don Wigle
Wiggle Room
E 38 #8
Pt. Richmond, CA
Tom Metzger
Sustaining Partner
A little grease on the O-rings does wonders. It's very easy to do, and clean. It doesn't involve the gozouta end of the toilet. Remove the screw in the center of the knob, lift off knob, pull out the valve assembly, and grease the O-rings.
Andrew Means
Member III
Hey Don - I installed the new head last night and one of the biggest challenges was getting the hoses to bend in the way I wanted. The main output hose was really a challenge; I had to really push it to get it to bend down to the outlet of the toilet, and the water hose is very near getting a kink in it (not sure if you can see that from the photos).
To those who have done this before - are there tricks of the trade for getting hoses around tight corners?
Dan Morehouse
Member III
Andrew,
The tricks I've heard of all use heat. Heat guns, hair dryers, dipping in boiling water, etc. Or hire an alligator wrestler. The bend radius of good sanitation hose seems the single most influential factor in designing these installations.
It also helps to lubricate the fittings before trying to get the hose over them.
The tricks I've heard of all use heat. Heat guns, hair dryers, dipping in boiling water, etc. Or hire an alligator wrestler. The bend radius of good sanitation hose seems the single most influential factor in designing these installations.
It also helps to lubricate the fittings before trying to get the hose over them.
Andrew Means
Member III
Hey Dan -
Heat worked - now, hilariously, the fittings that weren't nightmares to get on are leaking. I've tightened down the hose clamps (some till they start stripping) and there's still leaks. Thankfully I've only put water through it and it's not really sailing season yet, but I've got to figure something out. Two hose clamps? Tighten them tighter?
Heat worked - now, hilariously, the fittings that weren't nightmares to get on are leaking. I've tightened down the hose clamps (some till they start stripping) and there's still leaks. Thankfully I've only put water through it and it's not really sailing season yet, but I've got to figure something out. Two hose clamps? Tighten them tighter?
Sealing those pesky leaks.
Andrew, Consider using some non-hardening Permatex sealant, that'll do the job. Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA
Andrew, Consider using some non-hardening Permatex sealant, that'll do the job. Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA
Dan Morehouse
Member III
Andrew,
I just removed the manual pump used for emptying the holding tank and installed a macerator, and thus had to add a y-valve, plus disconnect and reconnect most of the hoses. Every nipple, from the y-valve to the toilet discharge, to a y-fitting, to the macerator, was different. Some were smooth (toilet discharge and y-valve), some had a small bead on the ends (y-fitting), and some had barbed surfaces (macerator). EVERY SINGLE ONE of the non-barbed ones leaked. I finally got them to seal with double clamps, tightened so firmly they were gouging the hose. Ridiculous. I've done plumbing as part of my work for almost three decades, but if there is a way to effectively deal with this issue, I am all ears.
I just removed the manual pump used for emptying the holding tank and installed a macerator, and thus had to add a y-valve, plus disconnect and reconnect most of the hoses. Every nipple, from the y-valve to the toilet discharge, to a y-fitting, to the macerator, was different. Some were smooth (toilet discharge and y-valve), some had a small bead on the ends (y-fitting), and some had barbed surfaces (macerator). EVERY SINGLE ONE of the non-barbed ones leaked. I finally got them to seal with double clamps, tightened so firmly they were gouging the hose. Ridiculous. I've done plumbing as part of my work for almost three decades, but if there is a way to effectively deal with this issue, I am all ears.
Andrew Means
Member III
Hey Dan - I was talking to a guy at Marine Sanitation & Supply here in Seattle and he actually suggested using 4200 as a sealant. I had a little bit of luck using teflon tape around the discharge elbow and then double-clamping it, but I wonder if that's going to be worse in the long run?
Confession: I have used adhesive/sealant for this purpose for many years. Tighten it purdy good, wait a few days and then take up on the clamps a bit more.
No leaks.
I single clamp everything on the suction side and double clamp everything on the pressure (effluent) side. And, if in doubt, double clamp 'em all.
LB
ps: discussion reminds of one of the more criminal characters in Futurama (who works for the Don-bot...)
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clamps.jpg
Andrew Means
Member III
What sealant do you use, Loren?
I love Clamps, he's awesome : )
I love Clamps, he's awesome : )
Something like LifeSeal or maybe some 4200 -- sometimes just "marine silicone sealant" because it was handy.
Never been too fussy, actually. (Just avoid "Life Caulk" because it eats plastics...)
LB
Andrew Means
Member III
Awesome. So far I think double clamping has worked for the slower ones, and then some teflon tape seems to be holding things at bay at the discharge elbow. I bought a heat gun and really let the hose have it - almost melted it at one point, but at least there isn't so much load on the discharge elbow now, so it's not leaking. I pumped a ton of water through it and everything seems to be functioning pretty well. What a relief!
celtic sea
Member III
Our recently purchased E27 1973 just has a portable head and the thru hull fittings are there just closed off, my question is I guess in 1973 when the boat was new it came with a head that just discharged overboard? and was never upgraded? Or was an holding tank an option back then? From this forum it appears I can easily install a 15 gal. Tank under the front v birth and repipe.
Plumbing fior head.
Congratulations on the recent purchase of your E27. Please note that the archives will mention the lack of need for a Y-valve when plumbing a holding tank into your head system. If memory serves, it's #8 in the West Marine "Our favorite method" illustration in any West Marine catalog. Replace that valve with a T-fitting and you'll be good to go. Odorlos is the treatment of choice if you want an odor-free system. Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA
Congratulations on the recent purchase of your E27. Please note that the archives will mention the lack of need for a Y-valve when plumbing a holding tank into your head system. If memory serves, it's #8 in the West Marine "Our favorite method" illustration in any West Marine catalog. Replace that valve with a T-fitting and you'll be good to go. Odorlos is the treatment of choice if you want an odor-free system. Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey CA
Andrew Means
Member III
Yes, you can "easily" install a holding tank under the front V-berth, in sense that there aren't any particularly crazy skills required beyond patience and some sweat : )
And I would make that your first major project, if I were you; we had a port-a-potty in our first boat (a Thunderbird 26') and I still have nightmares about emptying that thing after a long cruise...