toerail getting loose

[archangel]

Hauling boat out for bottom paint and wax . the toerail is worn and in need of replacement , or repair. any sugestions on my options or costs of replacement.

 

[CTOlsen]

Why not simply retighten

Try retightening the bolting. Otherwise, recommend replacing with teak vice alum extrusion. Newer production boats, such as beneteau, are fab'd with teak toe rails.

 

[archangel]

Try retightening the bolting. Otherwise, recommend replacing with teak vice alum extrusion. Newer production boats, such as beneteau, are fab'd with teak toe rails.

Thanks craig for your reply ,I think it may need to be redone under the rail because some of the screws wont tighten all the way. also getting some alge growth under rail , when hosing off boat leaves its streaks down the side. The yard said it could be a big job, but they will make recomendations .

 

[Loren Beach]

Top or Side?

On an E-35 Mk3, the "toe rail" being asked about is likely just the cosmetic cover over the hull-to-deck joint that was already glassed over on the inside with roving. This is the standard scheme on the 80's Ericson series. Strong construction and you end up with a "one piece" hull and deck structure.

There is a raised toe rail that is part of the mold, but I do not believe that is what is being discussed by the thread starter.

(The Olsons were constructed differently, with an inward flange on the hull mold and the deck placed on top and thru-bolted thru an aluminum slotted toe rail. Generally equal in strength, but rather different in design/engineering.)

The boat in the original post would have an extruded aluminum cover piece with a vinyl fill piece. Before the vinyl is pressed into place, that aluminum section is screwed into the joint with a whole lotta small ss screws, IIRC. The outside groove of that joint was faired first with some poly putty, and then the cover was applied.

Over the decades, that long continuous alum. piece can be damaged by contact with docks, boats, UFO's, and whatever.... and sometimes it can corrode over the decades from moisture trapped in the channel in the center. I am not at all sure who/where you can source a new section, and if you do, shipping would be a bear (not knowing if it could be rolled up and how many feet accross that roll might have to be!).

Strictly in the "FWIW" department, I have seen one similar Ericson 34 (80's model) with the whole joint finished out smooth on the outside and painted with LPU to match the hull. IIRC they did a new Ericson standard wide cove stripe that covered the area, and mostly just painted that one part. I recall that I had to study the boat for a minute to be sure it was an Ericson.... but then I focused on the trapazoidal windows and figured out what I was looking at!

There are all-vinyl change-overs that you could replace both sides with, but IMHO they would look a bit clunkier than the factory original. Hopefully other owners of E boats from the 80's will have some solutions.

Regards,
Loren

 

[toddster]

Assuming that we are talking about the rub-rail over the hull-deck joint: When I replaced the rubber insert on mine this summer, I noticed that at least half of the wood screws that hold the extrusion on had backed out and/or worn so that they couldn't be tightened. They were originally screwed into the lips of the deck/hull joint, and over 40 years, those edges deteriorated. Unfortunately, I was on deadline, so I just tightened the screws as best I could and pressed on. I should have taken an extra day to fill the joint with epoxy or something and re-set the screws into that. But I put it off for a future haul-out.

I see now, on Christian Lloyd's blog that he reports that the extrusion came off, due to repeated wave action, on his passage from Hawaii. Which resulted in chronic water leaks in through the old screw holes. On mine, only the two bolts at the extreme ends, plus the end-caps, are through-bolted.

BTW: I got replacements for these parts at catalina direct.

 

[archangel]

Assuming that we are talking about the rub-rail over the hull-deck joint: When I replaced the rubber insert on mine this summer, I noticed that at least half of the wood screws that hold the extrusion on had backed out and/or worn so that they couldn't be tightened. They were originally screwed into the lips of the deck/hull joint, and over 40 years, those edges deteriorated. Unfortunately, I was on deadline, so I just tightened the screws as best I could and pressed on. I should have taken an extra day to fill the joint with epoxy or something and re-set the screws into that. But I put it off for a future haul-out.

I see now, on Christian Lloyd's blog that he reports that the extrusion came off, due to repeated wave action, on his passage from Hawaii. Which resulted in chronic water leaks in through the old screw holes. On mine, only the two bolts at the extreme ends, plus the end-caps, are through-bolted.

BTW: I got replacements for these parts at catalina direct.

Sorry to my fellow sailers who replied to my question. I think i meant to ask my question about the the thin metal strip below the toerail . which i think is the rubrail . i beleive this is not fastened to the hull deck joint. please correct me if im wrong .

 

[archangel]

On an E-35 Mk3, the "toe rail" being asked about is likely just the cosmetic cover over the hull-to-deck joint that was already glassed over on the inside with roving. This is the standard scheme on the 80's Ericson series. Strong construction and you end up with a "one piece" hull and deck structure.

There is a raised toe rail that is part of the mold, but I do not believe that is what is being discussed by the thread starter.

(The Olsons were constructed differently, with an inward flange on the hull mold and the deck placed on top and thru-bolted thru an aluminum slotted toe rail. Generally equal in strength, but rather different in design/engineering.)

The boat in the original post would have an extruded aluminum cover piece with a vinyl fill piece. Before the vinyl is pressed into place, that aluminum section is screwed into the joint with a whole lotta small ss screws, IIRC. The outside groove of that joint was faired first with some poly putty, and then the cover was applied.

Over the decades, that long continuous alum. piece can be damaged by contact with docks, boats, UFO's, and whatever.... and sometimes it can corrode over the decades from moisture trapped in the channel in the center. I am not at all sure who/where you can source a new section, and if you do, shipping would be a bear (not knowing if it could be rolled up and how many feet accross that roll might have to be!).

Strictly in the "FWIW" department, I have seen one similar Ericson 34 (80's model) with the whole joint finished out smooth on the outside and painted with LPU to match the hull. IIRC they did a new Ericson standard wide cove stripe that covered the area, and mostly just painted that one part. I recall that I had to study the boat for a minute to be sure it was an Ericson.... but then I focused on the trapazoidal windows and figured out what I was looking at!

There are all-vinyl change-overs that you could replace both sides with, but IMHO they would look a bit clunkier than the factory original. Hopefully other owners of E boats from the 80's will have some solutions.

Regards,

 

[archangel]

rubrail getting loose

hauling boat out for bottom paint and wax . The toerail is worn and in need of replacement , or repair. Any sugestions on my options or costs of replacement.

i was wrong about my post. Its the rubrail. Sorry about my error, to those who answered my question my appologies for waisting your time.