Yeah, that's kind of brilliant....
V-belt Tension
- Thread starter Kenneth K
- Start date
Prairie Schooner
Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
In reviewing the Compass Marine How To site, the copper elbow came with the upgrade kit in 2011. It may have been specifically to allow clearance for loading and tightening the belt. If I'd known this, I might have gone the elbow route. I hope to try the revised belt loading tool within the next week.
- https://pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_alternator_bracket&page=1
- https://pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_alternator_bracket&page=1
Prairie Schooner
Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
Modifying the install tool from post #25 didn't work. I was able to get the NAPA 7390 belt on by taking the arm off the top and grunting strenuously, but it was a real struggle. Turns out, in addition to the arm touching the hose, the body of the alternator is in significant contact. The previous hose was lighter duty allowing it to compress enough. So, the answer is not putting a curve in the arm to relieve contact with the hose. I need to lengthen the slot and use a 7395. But there's only so much room before the alternator hits the bulkhead.
In the meantime, the belt now has enough tension to get the power and pumping I feel it needs. So I can punt that project down the road. When I get to it, if I'm smart, I'll follow Christian's recommendation.
* I just noticed the asymmetrical fan on the alternator. That's weird.
peaman
Contributing Partner
Maybe for sound. If all blades are the same, a single predominant tone, varying with speed, could be really annoying. But some variation changes the resulting noise spectrum.
Prairie Schooner
Jeff & Donna, E35-3 purchased 7/21
Cautionary Tale
Well, that was a bad idea. I got a tighter belt but ended up grinding a hole in the oil filter.
post # 21
ericsonyachts.org
The hip bones connected to the leg bone, etc. . . .
I went back to the 7395 belt which will work for now, though it's too floppy for my liking. At some point I'll either modify the existing arm or make a new one. I'd kind of like trying to get a part water jet cut. I've never done that before.
@bigd14 - Doug, whatever you do, learn from my mistakes!
Well, that was a bad idea. I got a tighter belt but ended up grinding a hole in the oil filter.
post # 21
Catastrophic Oil Loss
The Wound Was Self-Inflicted I feel like such a moron. I tightened the alternator arm too much and it was rubbing against the filter. The breach was only a matter of time. Much like Deborah just described. The new filter is installed. The engine started. There doesn't seem to be any more...
I went back to the 7395 belt which will work for now, though it's too floppy for my liking. At some point I'll either modify the existing arm or make a new one. I'd kind of like trying to get a part water jet cut. I've never done that before.
@bigd14 - Doug, whatever you do, learn from my mistakes!
mherrcat
Sustaining Partner
I just bought this Gates Krikit belt tension gauge at O'Reilly Auto Parts. Will try it out next weekend.
When I put the new "used" alternator on (marine consignment store purchase - $50) I couldn't get the old size belt on it; I think the pulley is slightly larger. Old belt was Gates 3VX400, a 40-inch belt. Had to get a 3VX415, a 41.5-inch belt, which is a special order but Gates had some in stock. (They apparently don't make a 41-inch belt.)
When I put the new "used" alternator on (marine consignment store purchase - $50) I couldn't get the old size belt on it; I think the pulley is slightly larger. Old belt was Gates 3VX400, a 40-inch belt. Had to get a 3VX415, a 41.5-inch belt, which is a special order but Gates had some in stock. (They apparently don't make a 41-inch belt.)
I read somewhere in the Universal engine documentation that you should only apply pressure on the "front" part of the alternator housing when tensioning the belt. Pressure on the "back" part of the housing can damage the alternator. They don't say how it can be damaged, though.