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Varnished Cabin Sole (again) Pictures

markvone

Sustaining Member
Here are the missing pictures from the Varnishing Cabin Sole (again) thread.

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?13839-Varnishing-cabin-sole-(again)

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markvone

Sustaining Member
Pictures Part 2

Holly Veneer repair

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The repair glued in but with no poly. With 5 coats of poly all you can see are the discoloration in the repair piece and the existing holly I didn't cut out. With a longer, undamaged patch piece this repair would have been invisible.
 

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markvone

Sustaining Member
Pictures Part 3

Found one of the holly veneer moisture damage before the repair.

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markvone

Sustaining Member
Pictures Part 4 Reconfiguring the Floor near the mast

It took 3 years to figure out how to arrange a removable board aft of the mast that would allow the existing long, main floor board to stay in, come out to avoid moisture damage and replace rotted fixed floor cut out near the mast. I could not match the teak and holly plywood so I decided I would use solid teak for the board as the rot had to go.

Inside the blue tape is where the new board would live. There is also a new cross support just aft of the mast step which extends as far outboard as possible. This supports the fwd end of the shortened long floor board which used to extend onto the aluminum mast support and soak up water draining out of the mast. There was about 18 inches of plywood edge delamination that I repaired with penetrating epoxy.

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markvone

Sustaining Member
The temporary mast board

It took a lot of time to figure that this would work for me. I hope it might inspire a solution for someone else with a similar problem.

Since I needed to remove the rot in the floor and I could not match the teak and holly plywood, I had decided I would start with a solid piece of teak for the new aft mast board. This board is 50% covered by a teak trim piece that used to attach to the long main floor board so the missing holly stripes shouldn't be that noticeable. I built a prototype board out of rough plywood to cover the hole in the floor and learn what the underside shape needed to be. Then I decided to experiment with staining it. It was the dead of winter. I was thinking. Once I got rolling I couldn't stop. I could experiment with as many new boards as I wanted. I could open a side business.

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markvone

Sustaining Member
Mast Board II

So if the sole is plywood, wouldn't plywood be better than solid teak? Much less chance of splitting and warping. I could get a teak veneered plywood scrap from somewhere. But the staining was too intriguing. I found this article on the net.

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/layered-color-special-effects-with-stain/

I got a piece of birch plywood from Rockler and had at it. I added teak edge trim to match the other floor boards. Masked the fake holly stripes. Stained both the teak color and the holly color. Lost the original Ericson walnut trim piece for the top somewhere along the way and had to make another one of those from scratch. Did I mention it was winter?
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markvone

Sustaining Member
Mast Board II finished

Here is the finished aft mast board (smaller on the right) next to the original fwd mast board that I restored. I also swapped out the old corroded ring pulls for new brass fittings on all the floor boards.

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The new aft mast board allows me to leave the long main floor board in all the time, avoiding a trip hazard, since it now stops short of the potentially wet mast step. I now take the fwd and aft mast boards out when I'm off the boat. The open space near the mast is much smaller and the openings are small due to the mast support and TAFG so it's nearly impossible to fall into the bilge.

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All I need now is a small piece of old, matching T&H plywood to make mast board III!

Mark
 

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markvone

Sustaining Member
The floor with 5 coats of finish

I am finishing the floor with gloss polyurethane to build up the thickness. I haven't decided if I will use satin or gloss on the final coat but I'm leaning toward gloss. The gloss does make taking real-look pictures difficult. I thought I had brush stokes in the surface until I realized the area way forward was pretty smooth and the high wear area at the bottom of the companionway was just still showing the grain of the sole and hadn't been leveled smooth after 5 coats. You can see this in the bright spots on the floor where light from the ports is reflected. I probably have at least 3 more coats to get it smooth and level due to wear of the surface. Mast board II is about 90% perfect. It's a little too light and a little too brown. Also the grain runs the wrong way. I still have a small, thin sliver of unfinished area of teak veneer damage to port of the mast you can see in photo 2. I'm leaning toward just finishing this with no repair. I did this on an even smaller spot and it's nearly impossible to see. You can also see the holly repair in photo 2. With a longer repair piece this would be virtually invisible. Photos 3 and 4 show the finished boards and floor. The color is more even and the darker spots are less obvious to the eye than in the photo. Last picture shows how I now leave the two small mast boards out when not on the boat to prevent watr damage.
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