Vendor for custom battery cables
- Thread starter Kenneth K
- Start date
Baslin
Member III
Dont Know about a vendor that will make cables that long for you but making them yourself can be quite satisfying. I have a very expensive battery cable end crimper. Cost was around $178....But I use it quite often being a diesel mechanic. The hammer crimper also works very well and once you buy the tool, it may save you down the road.
TEMCo Hammer Lug Crimper Tool 5 Year Warranty - Battery Terminal Crimper - Amazon.com
TEMCo Hammer Lug Crimper Tool 5 Year Warranty - Battery Terminal Crimper - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
Hi Ken,
I just made up some cables for an inverter on Lotus Flower. The West Marine here in Santa Cruz has all the parts and a crimper mounted on a table. The hard part was wearing glasses so I could see what I was doing. Glasses and a mask don't really work...
I just made up some cables for an inverter on Lotus Flower. The West Marine here in Santa Cruz has all the parts and a crimper mounted on a table. The hard part was wearing glasses so I could see what I was doing. Glasses and a mask don't really work...
Slick470
Member III
I have never used these guys for their custom cables, but I have ordered electrical supplies from them. http://www.genuinedealz.com/custom-cables
Their prices seem reasonable.
If you want to make your own, Maine Sail has a nice how to guide: https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/
Their prices seem reasonable.
If you want to make your own, Maine Sail has a nice how to guide: https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/
I found ordering cables on line easy and cheap. My electrical kit doesn't keep an inventory of components that big.
At random: https://www.bestboatwire.com/custom-cables/custom-battery-cable-assembly
At random: https://www.bestboatwire.com/custom-cables/custom-battery-cable-assembly
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Remember to make sure you're getting tinned copper cables. The cheapest cables you find may be regular (automotive) copper cables.
You'll also want to make sure the end crimps are tinned copper to minimize corrosion.
I bought this crimper:
and got the terminals and wire cables from West Marine when I made cables for my windlass installation. I've made several other crimped ends while upgrading my electrical system. Watch a few youtube videos to understand what makes a good terminal crimp vs a bad one. Good luck.
You'll also want to make sure the end crimps are tinned copper to minimize corrosion.
I bought this crimper:
HYCLAT 10 Tons Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool With 9 Pairs of Dies - - Amazon.com
HYCLAT 10 Tons Hydraulic Wire Battery Cable Lug Terminal Crimper Crimping Tool With 9 Pairs of Dies - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
Slick470
Member III
I just realized after clicking your link that we both linked to the same company, but for some reason they are using different names... pretty much the same websites.
Thanks for the info. For whatever reason, Bestboatwire.com was out of 1/0 gauge when I was ready to order, so I used these guys instead:
I got 12 ft of 1/0 tinned marine cable with two crimped on lugs and one end of the wire "labeled." Delivered to my door in four days for $72.
The 12 ft of cable by itself would have been $93 at Tiffanys-by-the Sea.
Couldn't be happier.
Home - Custom Boat Cables
Our site is currently under construction, we hope to serve you soon! Any questions please email info@customboatcables.com
customboatcables.com
I got 12 ft of 1/0 tinned marine cable with two crimped on lugs and one end of the wire "labeled." Delivered to my door in four days for $72.
The 12 ft of cable by itself would have been $93 at Tiffanys-by-the Sea.
Couldn't be happier.
I'm waiting for delivery of the cable to make and replace all of mine so can offer a price comparison on 45 ft of 1/0 and 10 ft of 2 AWG:
$407.45 West Marine
$269.45 Defender without First (extra $50)
$253.55 Pacer
$239.40 Defender with First Buying "club"
$226.80 Tinned Marine Wire
$225.10 Best Boat Wire
$407.45 West Marine
$269.45 Defender without First (extra $50)
$253.55 Pacer
$239.40 Defender with First Buying "club"
$226.80 Tinned Marine Wire
$225.10 Best Boat Wire
We overhauled almost the entire main DC system up to the distribution panel and used the crimper suggested by Maine Sail. Would do it in a heartbeat again, and being able to run the cable then crimp the end on afterward was useful at times. We got the wire from several places, most of it was from genuinedealz though I wouldn't buy the crimp lugs from them again. They look like the FTZ lugs on the web site, but were a different make. Still seemed decent and made of solid copper that is tinned, but the cost savings wasn’t enough not to buy the real deal.
I’ve been going with genuinedealz for a while - probably on a tip from here? And I bought the fabulously expensive crimpers recommended by Mainsail, on the rationalization that I’d use them over and over again around the farm. I have had a couple of failed crimps, one on the boat, one on the Jeep, that I attribute to no-name lugs from eBay.
“But it could be my fault...”
“But it could be my fault...”
steven
Sustaining Member
Great info on sourcing cables.
Can someone help with cable sizing and spec?
I want to move both starting and house batteries to the settee berths (where they would be easier for me to access and maintain).
approx 10 - 12 ft run.
what should I use ? For starting bat, is the amp draw of the starter the determining factor.
thanks
Can someone help with cable sizing and spec?
I want to move both starting and house batteries to the settee berths (where they would be easier for me to access and maintain).
approx 10 - 12 ft run.
what should I use ? For starting bat, is the amp draw of the starter the determining factor.
thanks
According to Mainesail, the M25 starter draws about 150A, so you could get away with 1 AWG, but in my re-wiring I moved to 1/0 which it seems most people have done. This is for (1) the cable from the battery, (2) the starter cable, and (3) the ground cable.
I have a note about minor Universal M25 trivia that I keep in a note taking app called Evernote. No idea where I picked this up, but it sounds right:
Universals requirement for the M-25 is:
4 Ft. Wire = 2GA
5 Ft. Wire = 1GA
7 Ft. Wire = 1/0
9 Ft. Wire = 2/0
11 Ft. Wire = 3/0
14 Ft. Wire = 4/0
While I have zero idea how the OEM Ericson battery box got past whatever back then was equivalent to Federal Law 183.20 or ABYC E-10.7.10 due to the lack of venting, your plan is going to compound this by "hiding" the batteries. I've seen others do what you propose and it's not me you need to tell how much easier this will make life; I already get it. Just be aware that this is an easy and common finding for a surveyor to write up when you go to sell.
See page 35: https://www.uscgboating.org/regulations/assets/builders-handbook/ELECTRICAL.pdf
and: https://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_gen_41598472.pdf
I have a note about minor Universal M25 trivia that I keep in a note taking app called Evernote. No idea where I picked this up, but it sounds right:
Universals requirement for the M-25 is:
4 Ft. Wire = 2GA
5 Ft. Wire = 1GA
7 Ft. Wire = 1/0
9 Ft. Wire = 2/0
11 Ft. Wire = 3/0
14 Ft. Wire = 4/0
While I have zero idea how the OEM Ericson battery box got past whatever back then was equivalent to Federal Law 183.20 or ABYC E-10.7.10 due to the lack of venting, your plan is going to compound this by "hiding" the batteries. I've seen others do what you propose and it's not me you need to tell how much easier this will make life; I already get it. Just be aware that this is an easy and common finding for a surveyor to write up when you go to sell.
See page 35: https://www.uscgboating.org/regulations/assets/builders-handbook/ELECTRICAL.pdf
and: https://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_gen_41598472.pdf
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Using 24 feet as a guide (assuming 12 feet is the WIRE LENGTH 1 way) from the settee to the starter, assuming engine bay temps on the wire and assuming it runs with at least one other cable (the ground?), and no more than 5 min of continuous cranking at 150 amps, the Blue Sea calculator says you should run 2/0 cable for 3% v-drop (the way I would go) or 1/0 if you are ok with 10%.
I’m just repeating what a calculator, given a bunch of assumptions tells me. This isn’t considered advice or guidance, and you need to choose what you want to do at your own risk / end leagalease.
Also, what Tin Kicker said is also very true
I’m just repeating what a calculator, given a bunch of assumptions tells me. This isn’t considered advice or guidance, and you need to choose what you want to do at your own risk / end leagalease.
Also, what Tin Kicker said is also very true
steven
Sustaining Member
thanks. Looks like 2/0 is the way to go. I generally try to with higher grade if possible on most everything. The real expense (these days) is the labor of getting things installed. So might as well overkill on the materials.
I have read that a louver in the compartment - in this case between the settee and the main cabin - is enough to meet the battery venting requirement. Probably would be an improvement over battery venting to the closed lazerette. Does that seem right ?
--Steve
I have read that a louver in the compartment - in this case between the settee and the main cabin - is enough to meet the battery venting requirement. Probably would be an improvement over battery venting to the closed lazerette. Does that seem right ?
--Steve
Not sure if it is 100% compliant, but that is how ours is vented. One on each side of the battery box into the cabin. You can see them in these photos.
Into the cabin is a subtlety that I'm not sure about. It may have to deal with potential sources of ignition in the space.
I do know that it would be a violation if it vents into the bilge, engine compartment, or other spaces where fumes or flammable vapors can collect,.
eknebel
Member III
I used wiring similar to what tinkicker described, 150A fuses at the batteries, and never any problems. Years later, I get a dc clamp on amp meter, and decide to measure my starter current on the 5416. I measured 30 amps( 360 watts ), which makes sense giving the size of the starter motor. Definitely go big on starter wiring, sometimes my starter battery needed all the help it could get!
Venting is nice to prevent explosions. Not quite as important, but heat build up during rapid charging is a concern for the health of the battery. Batteries are in engine compartments often, so i think abyc is with ok as long as there is a ventilation blower for the compartment?
Venting is nice to prevent explosions. Not quite as important, but heat build up during rapid charging is a concern for the health of the battery. Batteries are in engine compartments often, so i think abyc is with ok as long as there is a ventilation blower for the compartment?
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Dunno. I retired from the NTSB as the airplane systems engineering go-to so have a lot of background in finding & interpreting very similar FAA and industry specs and for my boat have gotten familiar with the ABYC & USCG versions. However, fine points of venting gets into the nuances that I've not spent time researching so would suggest doing so (ABYC E-10 especially) &/or talk to a marine surveyor before cutting anything.