Water damaged teak

[dhill]

I have a some small spots where my teak is water damaged. The following video shows how one might repair water stains, although I do not know if the teak in the video is a veneer or solid teak. I know that the teak veneer used in Ericsons can be pretty thin (1/16" IIRC).

Thoughts?
Dave

 

[Loren Beach]

We "saved" all of our factory teak veneer by cleaning it as much as possible with wet rags, and then final cleaning with Te-Ka A&B. And then using wet rags to remove all of the part B. Sand with 200 and 320 , and lay on multiple coats of varnish.
EY did use thin veneer, but probably twice as thick as the paper-thin veneer used in the last 15 or 20 years. (Yikes)

I have some pix of our restoration efforts in my blog.

 

[Kenneth K]

My test-case for re-finishing my cabin sole has been the bilge-cover boards. I did a light power-sanding with 220 grit paper but then had to do the holly strips by hand. If you over-do it and sand through the veneer in small spots, it's not so noticeable on corners and edges (after retouching with Varnathane Gunstock stain), but would likely look less-than-great in the middle of a work piece.

 

[Christian Williams]

The interior teak on my mid-80s Ericsons seems to have been varnished with satin varnish. I've found that a touch-up with Interlux satin , which has a mild stain in it, returns the lightened veneer to close to normal. I don't really sand, just rub off the residue.

(Satin only for bulkheads and trim--high gloss Schooner for sole, ladder and such.)_

 

[Mr. Scarlett]

I'm not sure if 1/16" is very thick veneer or very thin solid. Either way, in my opinion there is a lot of material to work with .

 

[Loren Beach]

I have a some small spots where my teak is water damaged. The following video shows how one might repair water stains, although I do not know if the teak in the video is a veneer or solid teak. I know that the teak veneer used in Ericsons can be pretty thin (1/16" IIRC).

Thoughts?
Dave

Not sure about the wood veneer around his opening port, but the wood on cabinet below it looks like mahogany.
His "quick n dirty" improvement is OK, but way short of a real refinishing.
He jokes about the dust mask, and does not even mask off the adjacent surface. Drips of finish product, oil or varnish, are very unpleasant to clean up. (Been there, done that error...)

 

[Christian Williams]

The 32-3 has a thin T&H plywood sole, about 3/8ths total as I recall (it rests neatly in shallow TAFG molding). Very easy to sand through the veneer.

The 381, however, has massive 3/4" floorboards, with 1/16th" T&H veneer. Still easy to sand through if trying to remove discoloration..

Sole veneer may be less than 1/16th", since soles have been trod on for decades, sometimes leaving the "holly" proud.

 

[Bolo]

The interior teak on my mid-80s Ericsons seems to have been varnished with satin varnish. I've found that a touch-up with Interlux satin , which has a mild stain in it, returns the lightened veneer to close to normal. I don't really sand, just rub off the residue.

(Satin only for bulkheads and trim--high gloss Schooner for sole, ladder and such.)_

Christian, Responding to an old posting here about restoring stained interior teak, in my case from water damage. You mentioned that you used Interlux satin but didn’t really sand the wood “just rub off the residue“. If you look at the attached photo (cropped from a larger one) you’ll see the water stains which are also in some places between the fixed ports. Is this the type of water stains that you treated and should I not sand even with a fine steel wood before using the Interlux satin?

 

[Loren Beach]

Those stains on the teak look just just like the ones on the veneer and trims, below the leaking fixed ports on our boat when we bought it in '94. After cleanup with "Teaka A & B" and varnishing the wood still looks great, years later. Teak is a great choice for an interior, IMHO.

 

[Christian Williams]

I am careful sanding veneer, actual teak you can sand all you like.