We just purchased an Ericson 32 in California and will be moving her to BC shortly. It is our first "big" boat. New engine, Universal diesel 3 cyl (46 hours) but they left the old prop a 13x10 fixed 3 blade. Almost hopeless to try and reverse with that thing it kicks to port so badly, plus the rpms for the engine is wonky with it. What is the best replacement? I have been advised that I should get a 2 blade feathering prop, probably a MaxProp. Any suggestions? Many thanks for your time.
Per your bio, you have a 1974 E-32.
I might wonder if the p.o. recently converted from an A4 gas engine and did not upgrade the prop. This is assuming that the 1" shaft size was the same. Which Universal model? The 20 hp?
I would imagine that a new prop is needed.
Will the engine achieve full revs forward? That's the main way to see if the pitch is correct. If it goes to full rated revs and the boat is pulling a big ol' stern wave at, oh, about 6.4 kts for a hull of that WL (give or take a bit) and presuming that for the sake of evaluating the boat has a clean bottom... then the pitch might be about right.
If the boat has a recent diesel conversion, there would be a new panel. Hopefully the wiring is attached right and the alternator is just fine -- that's where the tach gets its sense wire input for the alternator.
As to prop walk in reverse, yup, that's what happens until you start to get some way on in reverse. We went from a two blade to a three blade and found that we get more walk, starting out at rest. OTOH, we have Oodles of torque forward over the old two blade.
Everything's a compromise, as some viking once told me.
When you get a round "tuit" please post up a pic or two of your boat.
Cheers,
Loren
I might wonder if the p.o. recently converted from an A4 gas engine and did not upgrade the prop. This is assuming that the 1" shaft size was the same. Which Universal model? The 20 hp?
I would imagine that a new prop is needed.
Will the engine achieve full revs forward? That's the main way to see if the pitch is correct. If it goes to full rated revs and the boat is pulling a big ol' stern wave at, oh, about 6.4 kts for a hull of that WL (give or take a bit) and presuming that for the sake of evaluating the boat has a clean bottom... then the pitch might be about right.
If the boat has a recent diesel conversion, there would be a new panel. Hopefully the wiring is attached right and the alternator is just fine -- that's where the tach gets its sense wire input for the alternator.
As to prop walk in reverse, yup, that's what happens until you start to get some way on in reverse. We went from a two blade to a three blade and found that we get more walk, starting out at rest. OTOH, we have Oodles of torque forward over the old two blade.
Everything's a compromise, as some viking once told me.
When you get a round "tuit" please post up a pic or two of your boat.
Cheers,
Loren
windjunkee
Member III
I just put a maxprop feathering 2 blade, 12 inch on Voice of Reason. We have a 3/4" shaft and adjusted it to 18.2 degrees of pitch angle, per the suggestion of Moyer Marine. We have the A-4 engine.
Jim McCone
Voice of Reason, E-32-2
Redondo Beach, CA
Jim McCone
Voice of Reason, E-32-2
Redondo Beach, CA
Cory B
Sustaining Member
Old Prop
The 13x10 3 blade is probably not a left over from the A4... that would be way too much prop. No idea if its right for your diesel though.
12x7-ish 2 blade is pretty standard for the A4.
We had 12" 2 blade maxprop on our 32 (with an A4) and found it to be the best of the 3 props we tried. No matter what you put on those 32's its going to take some practice to figure out how to back up best.
The 13x10 3 blade is probably not a left over from the A4... that would be way too much prop. No idea if its right for your diesel though.
12x7-ish 2 blade is pretty standard for the A4.
We had 12" 2 blade maxprop on our 32 (with an A4) and found it to be the best of the 3 props we tried. No matter what you put on those 32's its going to take some practice to figure out how to back up best.
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many thanks for response re E-32 prop
Many thanks for all of your responses to my inquiry re a new prop for E-32. The fellow who was the second to last owner completed major upgrades to the boat in 2008 – new running rigging, new standing rigging, new tabernacle mast, new boom, new gel coat on hull, new paint on deck, new canvas on everything, re-did brightwork, new upholstery, and new engine – he did a really nice job…and then he was hit by a car. Had to sell the boat to its present owner who has done nothing further to it (not even sure he has really sailed it!). I suspect the reno owner was planning on doing the prop as the engine only had 25 hours on it when he sold it but the accident prevented him from following through.
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We had a mechanical inspection so we know all of that is working well, he checked sending units, tach etc. It was the mechanic who suggested that the prop might be the reason the rpm’s were not coming up as he wanted. And yes, the bottom is clean. A diver gives it a scrub every 3 months.
<o> </o>
Although this is the first big boat we have bought, I have some experience with other boats, especially backing up, as that is how I prefer to dock a boat as the shore power connection is usually at the stern, plus the modern boats have an easy walk through transom. Even a Catalina 32 which has quite a bit of prop walk seems like backing up with a saildrive compared to backing up this Ericson!
<o> </o>
I was told (by the mechanic) that the E-32 should not have much prop walk in reverse but it sounds like this is not true?
<o> </o>
Will I get less prop walk in reverse with a 3 blade feathering prop?
I must confess that this mystery of prop selection leaves me quite befuddled. I'm waiting for someone to tell me that props should always be installed under a full moon in order to work properly!
Many thanks for all of your responses to my inquiry re a new prop for E-32. The fellow who was the second to last owner completed major upgrades to the boat in 2008 – new running rigging, new standing rigging, new tabernacle mast, new boom, new gel coat on hull, new paint on deck, new canvas on everything, re-did brightwork, new upholstery, and new engine – he did a really nice job…and then he was hit by a car. Had to sell the boat to its present owner who has done nothing further to it (not even sure he has really sailed it!). I suspect the reno owner was planning on doing the prop as the engine only had 25 hours on it when he sold it but the accident prevented him from following through.
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o> </o>We had a mechanical inspection so we know all of that is working well, he checked sending units, tach etc. It was the mechanic who suggested that the prop might be the reason the rpm’s were not coming up as he wanted. And yes, the bottom is clean. A diver gives it a scrub every 3 months.
<o
> </o>Although this is the first big boat we have bought, I have some experience with other boats, especially backing up, as that is how I prefer to dock a boat as the shore power connection is usually at the stern, plus the modern boats have an easy walk through transom. Even a Catalina 32 which has quite a bit of prop walk seems like backing up with a saildrive compared to backing up this Ericson!
<o
> </o>I was told (by the mechanic) that the E-32 should not have much prop walk in reverse but it sounds like this is not true?
<o
> </o>Will I get less prop walk in reverse with a 3 blade feathering prop?
I must confess that this mystery of prop selection leaves me quite befuddled. I'm waiting for someone to tell me that props should always be installed under a full moon in order to work properly!
Props, Magic, and Money
An aside if I may... you might want to type in your text here directly rather than paste from an MS Word (?) application. You're getting some odd missing-character filler.
Backing up. Always a bit of knuckle-bitting involved -- any boat any where. Once any boat gets some way on so the rudder gets a bite and all is well. Problem is control at very low dock-approach speed. Over the years we have gone from a two blade fixed (quite a bit of port walk starting out) to a two blade feathering (almost no walk, but a little less efficient forward due to no cupping), and currently are trying a three blade fixed (quite a bit of port walk starting out in reverse, but quite impressing forward thrust).
When our boat budget recovers enough there is a three blade featherer in our future sometime.
As to how much walk is normal, I have no idea. Most fin keel boats are kinda sorta similar, I guess. Interesting comment about the Cat. 32 (320 model?). I have never seen a Catalina with a sail drive. All the ones around here are shaft drive Universal diesels. FWIW, most sail drives put the prop deeper, level, and further forward along the bottom. This would innately give the prop less initial turning torque on the hull, so less apparent prop walk. You pay a price tho, in low speed maneuvers forward due to getting somewhat less wash over the rudder. Your boat's underbody is quite a bit more oriented toward sailing speed than that of the Catalina -- you have a lot less hull immersed aft and this might allow the initial prop walk get more pronounced on your model.
Full Moon. Yes... After all the experience, intuition and computer calculation the prop shop went thu to put my last fixed prop on, it is still off a little bit on pitch, at least a half inch or a bit more. Perhaps we should have sacrificed a goat, as well!
Summing up, you will indeed maximize straight line reversing with a feathering prop and also increase sailing speed almost a knot across the speed spectrum.
The extra blade area will just about make up for the lack of cupping in the feathering prop. They cost about $2650. Yikes.
Regards,
Loren
<o
Although this is the first big boat we have bought, I have some experience with other boats, especially backing up, as that is how I prefer to dock a boat as the shore power connection is usually at the stern, plus the modern boats have an easy walk through transom. Even a Catalina 32 which has quite a bit of prop walk seems like backing up with a saildrive compared to backing up this Ericson!
<o
I was told (by the mechanic) that the E-32 should not have much prop walk in reverse but it sounds like this is not true?
<o
Will I get less prop walk in reverse with a 3 blade feathering prop?
I must confess that this mystery of prop selection leaves me quite befuddled. I'm waiting for someone to tell me that props should always be installed under a full moon in order to work properly!
An aside if I may... you might want to type in your text here directly rather than paste from an MS Word (?) application. You're getting some odd missing-character filler.
Backing up. Always a bit of knuckle-bitting involved -- any boat any where. Once any boat gets some way on so the rudder gets a bite and all is well. Problem is control at very low dock-approach speed. Over the years we have gone from a two blade fixed (quite a bit of port walk starting out) to a two blade feathering (almost no walk, but a little less efficient forward due to no cupping), and currently are trying a three blade fixed (quite a bit of port walk starting out in reverse, but quite impressing forward thrust).
When our boat budget recovers enough there is a three blade featherer in our future sometime.
As to how much walk is normal, I have no idea. Most fin keel boats are kinda sorta similar, I guess. Interesting comment about the Cat. 32 (320 model?). I have never seen a Catalina with a sail drive. All the ones around here are shaft drive Universal diesels. FWIW, most sail drives put the prop deeper, level, and further forward along the bottom. This would innately give the prop less initial turning torque on the hull, so less apparent prop walk. You pay a price tho, in low speed maneuvers forward due to getting somewhat less wash over the rudder. Your boat's underbody is quite a bit more oriented toward sailing speed than that of the Catalina -- you have a lot less hull immersed aft and this might allow the initial prop walk get more pronounced on your model.
Full Moon. Yes... After all the experience, intuition and computer calculation the prop shop went thu to put my last fixed prop on, it is still off a little bit on pitch, at least a half inch or a bit more. Perhaps we should have sacrificed a goat, as well!
Summing up, you will indeed maximize straight line reversing with a feathering prop and also increase sailing speed almost a knot across the speed spectrum.
The extra blade area will just about make up for the lack of cupping in the feathering prop. They cost about $2650. Yikes.
Regards,
Loren
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Loren,
Thanks for the tip on cut & paste from Word. I'll learn!
The Catalina 320 did not have a saildrive. What I meant to say was that backing up the E32 with its present prop made the Catalina FEEL like it had a saildrive in comparison as there was so much prop walk on the E32.
I agree that the 3 blade fixed gives tons of thrust in forward. No problem there! I think I will talk to a couple of prop shops and see what I can find for a 3 blade feathering. Even though we may have to eat the goat that we sacrifice as we won't be able to afford anything else after paying for the prop. $2000 plus? Yikes! Oh well. We are very happy with the rest of the boat and all of the work and new "stuff" that was added to it, so I suppose we shouldn't complain.
Thanks for your help, much appreciated.
Thanks for the tip on cut & paste from Word. I'll learn!
The Catalina 320 did not have a saildrive. What I meant to say was that backing up the E32 with its present prop made the Catalina FEEL like it had a saildrive in comparison as there was so much prop walk on the E32.
I agree that the 3 blade fixed gives tons of thrust in forward. No problem there! I think I will talk to a couple of prop shops and see what I can find for a 3 blade feathering. Even though we may have to eat the goat that we sacrifice as we won't be able to afford anything else after paying for the prop. $2000 plus? Yikes! Oh well. We are very happy with the rest of the boat and all of the work and new "stuff" that was added to it, so I suppose we shouldn't complain.
Thanks for your help, much appreciated.
While prowling the web, I was looking at some E-32-2 photos at a YachtWorld ad.
Not that this proves I'm correct in my guess about prop walk causation on that model, but the prop is indeed way back where the hull has low wetted surface (good feature for sailing, BYW).
I know that my own boat has the prop located proportionately forward from that area. Of course it's never an apples-to-apples comparison... We have a lot more flat immersed hull aft, also.
Hopefully someone with actual knowledge (like Seth) will stop by and comment further.
I cropped a couple of pix from one of the ads.
Best,
Loren
Not that this proves I'm correct in my guess about prop walk causation on that model, but the prop is indeed way back where the hull has low wetted surface (good feature for sailing, BYW).
I know that my own boat has the prop located proportionately forward from that area. Of course it's never an apples-to-apples comparison... We have a lot more flat immersed hull aft, also.
Hopefully someone with actual knowledge (like Seth) will stop by and comment further.
I cropped a couple of pix from one of the ads.
Best,
Loren
Attachments
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E32-2 aft bottom.jpg -
E32-2 prop closeup.jpg
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prop walk
I have purchased a 1974 E32. I too have a lot of motor boat exp. My boat has a 25 hp universal as well and I know it had the a4 gas. if you figure this out let me know. I also have the 3 blade and go about 6.6 knotts. but in reverse it seams the prop is mounted sideways. people say yea you have prop walk too port, but they don't understand how bad it is. I was told to hit it hard to get the boat going and then let up on the throttle, By that time I would have hit the other boats. I also have a problem with the wheel pulling too ( I think) the right when under power. Do you have this problem. I want to add an autopilot and it pulls hard enough to burn it out.
I have purchased a 1974 E32. I too have a lot of motor boat exp. My boat has a 25 hp universal as well and I know it had the a4 gas. if you figure this out let me know. I also have the 3 blade and go about 6.6 knotts. but in reverse it seams the prop is mounted sideways. people say yea you have prop walk too port, but they don't understand how bad it is. I was told to hit it hard to get the boat going and then let up on the throttle, By that time I would have hit the other boats. I also have a problem with the wheel pulling too ( I think) the right when under power. Do you have this problem. I want to add an autopilot and it pulls hard enough to burn it out.
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DynamicDave
Member I
My 2 blade MaxProp doesn't just walk to port....
It Runs to port! I'm mostly backing all the way out of our marina! My plan is to try the Indigo fixed 3 blade for $310 and shelve the MaxProp during this winters haul out. The MaxProp will often fail to unfold in reverse with out a juiced throttle, forget about a slow idle in reverse (no control or way whatsoever) However I can pull 6 kts forward at 1900 rmp w/ the old A4 in my '76 E32. I'll post my experiance w/ new prop and perhaps list a used MaxProp (3/4" shaft) later this year.
It Runs to port! I'm mostly backing all the way out of our marina! My plan is to try the Indigo fixed 3 blade for $310 and shelve the MaxProp during this winters haul out. The MaxProp will often fail to unfold in reverse with out a juiced throttle, forget about a slow idle in reverse (no control or way whatsoever) However I can pull 6 kts forward at 1900 rmp w/ the old A4 in my '76 E32. I'll post my experiance w/ new prop and perhaps list a used MaxProp (3/4" shaft) later this year.
Dave, I am not understanding your prop description. If you have a "MaxProp" that is a Feathering prop. They can not "unfold" because they are not folded.
If you mean that the blades sometimes do not pivot from forward to reverse when you put it in reverse, that is a symptom of a problem unique to feathering props -- if the grease is too viscous/sticky the gears will occasionally not rotate to change the leading edge 180 degrees for reverse. We used to have this happen once in a while with out feathering prop. The cure (mostly) was to go with a lighter viscosity grease as reccommended by both PYI and Martec.
Loren
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CaptDan
Member III
Prop Walk
At the risk of getting tomatoes thrown at me:
I don't care what prop a boat has, or for that matter, the relative position it's in to the rudder. If it's a single screw vessel, backing down is ALWAYS going to be a challenge. So, here are the options:
1. Bow thruster. Yep. Ya gotta spend some $$ and cut a hole in the hull, but I've seen sailboatists drive their vessels with these bad boys and the pirouettes they perform in close quarters rival those of the London Ballet.
2. Make lemonaide from lemons: in other words, USE the prop walk to your advantage. Choose an upwind berth allowing a starboard turn to the fareway.
Not always an option, but definately helpful.
3. Back and fill. Sometimes this works; sometimes it doesn't. The latter situation is often a function of current, wind, and driver's tendency toward getting flustered easily.
4. Just back out. When all else fails. Of course, this is where the prop DOES matter, so you want one that bites effectively in reverse.
YMMV.
IMO.
Capt Dan G> E35II "Kunu"
At the risk of getting tomatoes thrown at me:
I don't care what prop a boat has, or for that matter, the relative position it's in to the rudder. If it's a single screw vessel, backing down is ALWAYS going to be a challenge. So, here are the options:
1. Bow thruster. Yep. Ya gotta spend some $$ and cut a hole in the hull, but I've seen sailboatists drive their vessels with these bad boys and the pirouettes they perform in close quarters rival those of the London Ballet.
2. Make lemonaide from lemons: in other words, USE the prop walk to your advantage. Choose an upwind berth allowing a starboard turn to the fareway.
Not always an option, but definately helpful.
3. Back and fill. Sometimes this works; sometimes it doesn't. The latter situation is often a function of current, wind, and driver's tendency toward getting flustered easily.
4. Just back out. When all else fails. Of course, this is where the prop DOES matter, so you want one that bites effectively in reverse.
YMMV.
IMO.
Capt Dan G> E35II "Kunu"
Plan B, maybe
Dan, Thanks! Those are all good ideas. I use the "back n fill" method quite often.
Herewith is a poor attempt at explaining how sailors at our YC moorage solve the port walk conundrum.
:nerd:
We have at least 3 members of our YC that have used a method involving a line tied to the end of the finger dock the boat is starboard-tied to. That line is about as long as the boat, and is nylon so it will sink and also has a fishing sinker tied to the end. Line size is about 1/4" or 3/8".
These are typical fin keel boats with engines that turn right hand props (which is about every engine out there except ancient Volvos and maybe boats with V-drives).
All of our larger-boat slips face upstream against prevailing current and we have a normal summer cross wind (NW) against the port side of each boat. Our marina is on the south side of the Columbia River, which flows due west in our area. So, when I try to back up under power, the boat initially tries to port walk, which pulls the stern to port, whereas I need to (prefer to, anyway) back up with a quick turn in reverse to starboard. That way I can put the helm over hard, put engine in forward gear, and make a port turn and exit down the fairway and out of the moorage.
Back to the 'method'......
The "backing up line" is led to a cockpit winch and a turn put on it. Skipper puts boat in reverse and as it moves back and also tries to rotate the stern to port (i.e. the wrong way) tension on that line will not let the stern turn to port and as the thrust is kept constant, but not too much, the crew with the line keeps paying it out until the bow is clear enough to commence that desired sharp turn to port and head out.
Then the line is thrown over the side to sink to the bottom. It will retrieved upon return to the slip and coiled up ready for the next time.
This would easier to show with a multi-step diagram but I am not computer literate enough to generate one!
Anyhow, I have seen a couple in their 80's sail almost every day using this for over a decade to overcome the port walk on their A-4 equipped Cal 3-30. A Catalina 28 and a 30 also use it often.
Best,
Loren
Dan, Thanks! Those are all good ideas. I use the "back n fill" method quite often.
Herewith is a poor attempt at explaining how sailors at our YC moorage solve the port walk conundrum.
:nerd:
We have at least 3 members of our YC that have used a method involving a line tied to the end of the finger dock the boat is starboard-tied to. That line is about as long as the boat, and is nylon so it will sink and also has a fishing sinker tied to the end. Line size is about 1/4" or 3/8".
These are typical fin keel boats with engines that turn right hand props (which is about every engine out there except ancient Volvos and maybe boats with V-drives).
All of our larger-boat slips face upstream against prevailing current and we have a normal summer cross wind (NW) against the port side of each boat. Our marina is on the south side of the Columbia River, which flows due west in our area. So, when I try to back up under power, the boat initially tries to port walk, which pulls the stern to port, whereas I need to (prefer to, anyway) back up with a quick turn in reverse to starboard. That way I can put the helm over hard, put engine in forward gear, and make a port turn and exit down the fairway and out of the moorage.
Back to the 'method'......
The "backing up line" is led to a cockpit winch and a turn put on it. Skipper puts boat in reverse and as it moves back and also tries to rotate the stern to port (i.e. the wrong way) tension on that line will not let the stern turn to port and as the thrust is kept constant, but not too much, the crew with the line keeps paying it out until the bow is clear enough to commence that desired sharp turn to port and head out.
Then the line is thrown over the side to sink to the bottom. It will retrieved upon return to the slip and coiled up ready for the next time.
This would easier to show with a multi-step diagram but I am not computer literate enough to generate one!
Anyhow, I have seen a couple in their 80's sail almost every day using this for over a decade to overcome the port walk on their A-4 equipped Cal 3-30. A Catalina 28 and a 30 also use it often.
Best,
Loren
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I can recommend the Variprop Variprofile three blade feathering prop VERY highly. It has added more speed under sail as well as motoring. It has greatly improved light air performance and even helm feel is better. I think the latter due to smoother water over the rudder blade. It reduced prop walk by 50% or so compared to my old 2 blade fixed. It is, unfortunately, quite expensive. Still one of the top three improvements I have made to the boat.
I pull into the dock bow in, port side to the dock. I have to back out, turn the stern to port, and then turn out to starboard and down the fairway. The trick I use to reduce propwalk is to have someone on the bow hold the port bow dockline. I push the stern of the boat off while getting on and they hold the bow in. Now when I engage reverse the propwalk pulls the boat back to port, straightens it out and the bow line is released.
I find that being aggressive with the throttle in reverse gets the boat moving and once some speed is gained, rudder authority is pretty decent. I have noticed that the boat responds better to less than full rudder deflection in reverse. Also, the quick aggressive use of the throttle in reverse get the boat moving. Once it is moving, place the lever in NEUTRAL! Let boat speed give the rudder "bite" without the props influence.
Works for me.
RT
I pull into the dock bow in, port side to the dock. I have to back out, turn the stern to port, and then turn out to starboard and down the fairway. The trick I use to reduce propwalk is to have someone on the bow hold the port bow dockline. I push the stern of the boat off while getting on and they hold the bow in. Now when I engage reverse the propwalk pulls the boat back to port, straightens it out and the bow line is released.
I find that being aggressive with the throttle in reverse gets the boat moving and once some speed is gained, rudder authority is pretty decent. I have noticed that the boat responds better to less than full rudder deflection in reverse. Also, the quick aggressive use of the throttle in reverse get the boat moving. Once it is moving, place the lever in NEUTRAL! Let boat speed give the rudder "bite" without the props influence.
Works for me.
RT
DynamicDave
Member I
Loren, My mistake regarding the MaxProp feathering/folding thing. Now that I've removed the 12x7 Maxie and replaced it w/the Indigo Prop (the maxProp was properly greased and feathered well, by what I could tell off the shaft) I've easily 50% less reverse prop walk and about 30% less helm pull in forward w/ the bronze 3 blade 10" indigo. My unscientific assumption, that the reverse 2:1 reduction gearing in my A4 setup, would not allow for proper reverse MaxProp feathering at lower RPMs (700 to 1200 rpm)This opinion is based on the many times I reversed out of my slip, only to have the old girl either 'walk hard' to port or do very little at all! There was no consistency at all w/ the MaxProp. I'll do a tear down of it later to inspect possible worn internal parts. Mean while, I'm sold on the Indigo, and only out$300. 76 E32
Randy Rutledge
Sustaining Member
Half way
Rob you are correct about not steering full in reverse, when you turn the rudder full it is more of a brake than steering, My slip is same as yours only I need to back to starboard and head out to port but ocasionally must do the 270 turn due to windage and propwalk. I am considering a verifold for my E-29 all you guys seem to like them. (yes I know your's is a feathering)
Rob you are correct about not steering full in reverse, when you turn the rudder full it is more of a brake than steering, My slip is same as yours only I need to back to starboard and head out to port but ocasionally must do the 270 turn due to windage and propwalk. I am considering a verifold for my E-29 all you guys seem to like them. (yes I know your's is a feathering)
Sven
Seglare
We got a 3-bladed Maxprop to help with the lack of control in reverse. It helped but didn't get rid of the problem. Our problem isn't prop-walk as much as lack of control in reverse due to the small rudder. If there is any appreciable cross wind it will push the bow where it wants to.
It may have been Guy who suggested that we should use a spring-line. We got a floating spring-line that we keep aboard. I think it is about 50' so we can cleat on end at the stern on the side we want to pull towards when backing up, then run it around a cleat on the dock and back on board. As we back up we gradually let it out, applying tension as needed to swing the stern. When we run out of line to let out we've almost cleared the slip and just pull it back on board.
We also know of one bareboat charter company that uses a completely different method when instructing their customers. They tell the customers to leave the bow tied (looped around a cleat) and put the engine in reverse for 10 seconds or more to build up current over the rudder and then let go of the bow using the already established current for control.
With all that said, we seem to have struck a deal with Senta II and seem to be able to reverse under control as long as the wind agrees.
-Sven
It may have been Guy who suggested that we should use a spring-line. We got a floating spring-line that we keep aboard. I think it is about 50' so we can cleat on end at the stern on the side we want to pull towards when backing up, then run it around a cleat on the dock and back on board. As we back up we gradually let it out, applying tension as needed to swing the stern. When we run out of line to let out we've almost cleared the slip and just pull it back on board.
We also know of one bareboat charter company that uses a completely different method when instructing their customers. They tell the customers to leave the bow tied (looped around a cleat) and put the engine in reverse for 10 seconds or more to build up current over the rudder and then let go of the bow using the already established current for control.
With all that said, we seem to have struck a deal with Senta II and seem to be able to reverse under control as long as the wind agrees.
-Sven
3 blade Max Prop has tamed prop walk
It has been some time since my original post asking for input re a new prop for our Ericson 32, many thanks to everyone for their thoughts. We purchased a 3 bladed Max Prop - tip to buyers of "new" boats, if you are going through a broker have the broker call and place the prop order with PYI for you. The broker can use your credit card. PYI will then charge a discounted price for the prop and send it wherever you want. In our case, we ordered the prop from the broker in California and had it shipped to Bellingham where the boat was being delivered. This saved us $1000 on the purchase price PLUS we were not charged any sales tax. The guys at PYI recommended to me directly that we do it this way.
Back to the prop. The Max Prop has tamed the prop walk considerably, I would say by at least 50% over the original fixed 3 blade 12x10. We deal with the rest of the prop walk by various methods at various times - back and fill, using a 40 foot length of floating line as a "spring" line, shorts bursts of power, favouring our port side for bow in docking, going with the mantra of don't go faster than you want to hit something etc. etc. The biggest thing has been simple practice. We take turns at the helm and practice taking her in and out of her slip, over and over and over and over.... We get a few funny looks in the marina "What have they forgotten now????" but the funny looks are worth it for the confidence when we have to bring her back/take her out in any sort of wind or current.
We have prepared a shopping list and will be travelling south of the border to the Seattle Boat Show at the end of January to check out diesel heaters, dodgers etc. etc. What fun!
Again, many thanks to everyone for your support and suggestions.
It has been some time since my original post asking for input re a new prop for our Ericson 32, many thanks to everyone for their thoughts. We purchased a 3 bladed Max Prop - tip to buyers of "new" boats, if you are going through a broker have the broker call and place the prop order with PYI for you. The broker can use your credit card. PYI will then charge a discounted price for the prop and send it wherever you want. In our case, we ordered the prop from the broker in California and had it shipped to Bellingham where the boat was being delivered. This saved us $1000 on the purchase price PLUS we were not charged any sales tax. The guys at PYI recommended to me directly that we do it this way.
Back to the prop. The Max Prop has tamed the prop walk considerably, I would say by at least 50% over the original fixed 3 blade 12x10. We deal with the rest of the prop walk by various methods at various times - back and fill, using a 40 foot length of floating line as a "spring" line, shorts bursts of power, favouring our port side for bow in docking, going with the mantra of don't go faster than you want to hit something etc. etc. The biggest thing has been simple practice. We take turns at the helm and practice taking her in and out of her slip, over and over and over and over.... We get a few funny looks in the marina "What have they forgotten now????" but the funny looks are worth it for the confidence when we have to bring her back/take her out in any sort of wind or current.
We have prepared a shopping list and will be travelling south of the border to the Seattle Boat Show at the end of January to check out diesel heaters, dodgers etc. etc. What fun!
Again, many thanks to everyone for your support and suggestions.